Help with brake line routing setup

Tom24GR

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Hello everyone,

I recently bought a 2007 FZ6 (the one with the 2 4-piston non-floating calipers) and the previous owner had installed a Brembo Master cylinder 16 mm (but its not one of the aftermarket ones, I think it came stock on some other Yamaha- maybe an old r6 or something). Each brake line is connected separately to the master cylinder which has one of those long/ double banjo bolts.

My problem with this setup it that I cannot properly rotate the master cylinder (and therefore the brake lever) because the end of the banjo bolt is blocked by the accelerator cable adjuster (and the last accelerator cable broke due to this contact). This makes it so that the brake lever is high up and it hurts my wrist.

Additionally there is some slight snagging when I turn the bars all the way to the left. The previous owner didn't route the brake lines through the little cable holder attached to the triple tree.

My question is, what can I do about this? I have seen setups where there is one line hooked up to the master cylinder and the line from the other caliper attaches to the brake line from the right caliper (instead of going back to the master cylinder directly). Or maybe could I get some sort of angled banjo bolt? I tried looking up "90 degree banjo bolt" on google but I couldn't find anything that resembles something that would fit.

Any ideas on what I could do to solve this?

Thanks in advance.
 

trepetti

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Pictures would help. If the rotation is stopped by one of the brake lines, you can get new brake lines with an offset banjo to try and clear the cables. I believe HEL will help with clearance issues. I have the same setup but with the stock master cylinder and dual Galfer SS lines and it works fine.

If you have to make compromises, I would revert to a stock master cylinder before I went to a single line overt-the-fender setup I am a big believer in having more brake fluid, which results in cooler brake fluid. Also it is easier to get maintenance parts when you know the exact make and model of the part.

A new front master is $130.00 at Partzilla. New lines will cost you nearly as much. And with the new master, you get a NEW master, all rebuilt and ready to go. Just reroute the lines when you make the swap.
I LOVE Brembo components, but I would not want anyone messing with my brakes unless I KNEW they selected the correct part. It is really easy to make things different. Making them BETTER requires research an planning.

It is really tough to make the stock brakes better. And impossible to make them better enough to tolerate other problems from the change.
 

Tom24GR

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Yeah I get what you mean. The master cylinder works great its just that the banjo bolt from the master cylinder his that adjuster for the accelerator cable. My first thought was to get one of those motion pro accelerator cable housings that go over the top of the handlebar (as opposed to the stock one that sits under) but they don't make one for the FZ6. The actual routing I can figure it out but the banjo bolt at the master cylinder is the bigger issue. Ill try to get some pics up here afterwards.
 

trepetti

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TownsendsFJR1300

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I'd just install the single line down (I did initially have two separate lines) from the master cylinder,
then go over the fender to the right(starboard) side, just as it came stock..

Just a little neater install looking than two separate lines from the MC to the calipers...

As noted, if the aftermarket master is awkward, etc, I'd replace that..


My "HEL" SS brake line set up:






 

TownsendsFJR1300

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I “could” do that, but there is too much line and it would look sloppy. The two lines are hidden behind the fork tube and look nice.

Ok, thought you were getting the similar to stock set up.

I did originally do the two separate lines from the master (see below),
but I didn't really like how they looked. They were a little easier to bleed from scratch.

Also, the brake line holder on the lower fork leg, for a neat install, I made up(copied most of the stock bracket) but at the top modded it for a zip tie. I forgot, something with the stock bracket, maybe too loose, I didn't like...

You'll like the feel of these new lines..

 

Gary in NJ

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Tom, I went back and re-read your original question. I don’t see how there could be interference between the master cylinder and the throttle housing/cable. And if there is, you can always loosen the the throttle housing and rotate it enough to clear the brake hose. You can also change the angle that the hose(s) exit the master.
 

Gary in NJ

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The anti-rotation pin is a nice to have, but not needed. Anyone that has used aftermarket bars has had to eliminate that pin. The screws will provide enough clamping force on their own, and if for some reason you still have movement, just a little tape under the clamping surface will correct it.
 

trepetti

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i thought of that but then the throttle housing has a small pin that fits into a hole on the bottom of the handlebars.

Gary is correct. When I added my FZ1 bar I ended up eliminating both alignment pins and the screws alone have been holding things together with no problems for 30,000 miles.
 
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