How Bad?

[KnuckleBallz]

I just made a huge mistake. 1-10 how much of a pain is it gonna be too get this fixed? Can I ride it to the shop?

Untitled by UncleSamMC, on Flickr

Posting from my phone, so I'd image doesn't work, basically I cracked my engine around the oil drain plug

 

[Erci]

Can't see image. How bad is it? It is spewing oil or just leaking for now? I'd be worried about riding over my own spilled oil and losing rear wheel, if it's leaking a lot. It'll probably leak more as the RPMs to up too.

 

[KnuckleBallz]

I had just changed the oil, so it's empty now. About to go to the shop, show them a picture & see their thoughts. Today was supposed to be my first ride of the year I can't even explain my anger right now

 

[greg]

can't see the picture, but it sounds like you cracked the sump

it can probably be welded, but depending on cost it might be easier to just get a replacement sump (and a torque wrench)

 

[Erci]

I had just changed the oil, so it's empty now. About to go to the shop, show them a picture & see their thoughts. Today was supposed to be my first ride of the year I can't even explain my anger right now

Bummer
Obviously do not ride the bike if it's got no oil in it. Good luck!

 

[garmie]

Is this a consequence of over-tightening the oil drain plug?

 

[darius]

Yeah it's bad but nothing that can't be fixed and learned from. Just don't ride it as Eric said- bloody dangerous for you and the bike.

 

[FinalImpact]

https://www.flickr.com/#/photos/unclesammc/13986024586/

Had an extra https but still not working.....

Sorry to hear that. There are several threads but few options. Weld or replace.
You'll have to search from outside as OIL and PAN are too short for the search engine (google etc).

search for: "cracked oil pan www.600riders.com"
or "replace oil pan Yamaha FZ6 Forum Community

Here's one: http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/36548-how-replace-your-oil-pan-2.html

 

[greg]

I checked UK ebay and the sump was around £30, I imagine it would cost a more getting it welded and tapped (£40-50). I imagine US prices aren't too dissimilar, just change the £ to a $

You might need a new sump gasket too

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I would just replace the pan if thats what's cracked. Their not terribly expensive nor too hard to change out.

NOTE: there is ONE RETAINING BOLT right smack in the middle of the pan..


Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2004 FZ6 - FZ600SS OIL CLEANER Diagram

 

[KnuckleBallz]

Looks like the pic is working now?

Anyway- the new sump was $195 & the shop is saying 3-4 hrs labor to change. Sucks that the headers have to come off to do it.

Expensive ****in lesson learnt.

At least the weather has sucked!

 

[FinalImpact]

Looks like the pic is working now?

Anyway- the new sump was $195 & the shop is saying 3-4 hrs labor to change. Sucks that the headers have to come off to do it.

Expensive ****in lesson learnt.

At least the weather has sucked!

Again sorry.
Would you care to share, were you using a torque wrench and was the tq applied within the limits set by Yamaha?

• Engine oil drain bolt M14 1 43 Nm (4.3 m·kg, 31 ft·lb)

I am not into bending the rules regarding published torque spec, but that bolt simply needs to stay in place as its only function.

- That said, once the bolt stops turning, your in dangerous territory even if abiding by the 31ft/lb max. If using a normal sized 3/8" ratchet (not a long handle), You should not be straining to snug this bolt down.
Personally I don't use a torque wrench on single bolts like this one but if I had to throw a number out there, >16 ft/lb and <25ft/lbs is more than enough to hold it in place.​

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Personally I don't use a torque wrench on single bolts like this one but if I had to throw a number out there, >16 ft/lb and <25ft/lbs is more than enough to hold it in place. [/INDENT]

Agreed ^^^, 16 ft lbs is plenty...

Bright side, its not the engine block and that part is replaced fairly easily and put the bike back to original...

 

[aclayonb]

Cheap torque wrench. So much cheaper than going full-mongo on cast aluminum. Aint gotta be perfect or name-brand.

3/8" Drive Click Type Torque Wrench

Also, recommend reviewing torque applications in human kinesthetics.

Ergonomics

I regularly destroy 3/8" bolts with hand tools and I'm the bane of aluminum threads. The torque wrench has saved me thousands (minus what I spent to learn that I needed it).

 

[KnuckleBallz]

I'm a lot dumber than I'd like to admit. I did have a torque wrench, but I couldn't resist tightening just a little bit more "just in case". I've since learned that my father has been struggling with this condition throughout his life. Hoping I'm a slightly faster learner.

 

[FinalImpact]

I'm a lot dumber than I'd like to admit. I did have a torque wrench, but I couldn't resist tightening just a little bit more "just in case". I've since learned that my father has been struggling with this condition throughout his life. Hoping I'm a slightly faster learner.

You are a brave sole! :bow::bow:

Aside from early wrenching on bikes, my first car at 15 was also an aluminum engine, 1965 Chev Corvair. I learned early on just how much tq various threads could take. For 3 years prior we were taking those flat 6 engines and placing them in sand rails so i saw first hand what others had done to them.

Anyway, holefully you can find a new pan and get the bike back on the road. And try not beat yourself up about this. Its done now so fix it, learn from it and move on.
Hang in there....

Also, when using sealent, less is better as you dont want excess inside the pan where it can get free and find itself in the oil. It can plug small ports and starve critical components of oil! Let us know if you need help.

 

[KnuckleBallz]

Haha I'm honest to a fault. Thanks for the offers to help...I just dropped it off at the local shop though. I live in Boston & was keeping it up in NH for the winter so it broke up there. Didn't have time to keep going back and forth working on it & don't have a driveway/garage down here.