Ignition coils

FinalImpact

2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone
Super Moderator
Site Supporter
If your source de-registers the previous ignition switch key pairing to the ECU, you are good to go. Even at that, I think with the RED key you can simply pair it following the OEM info... FWIW the info is there and you might take a peak if you don't have it already. Link --->> Read Immobilizer section at pg 8 - 63 yep!

<<SNIP>>
F/I
<< SNIP >>

I didn't think about all those other locks that are keyed alike so, yeah, repair would be a win win! :):rockon:
^^ Review of the FSM in the link says its non-issue to swap the ECUs as best I can tell. It walks you through how to initialize the ECU pairing the couple.

FWLIW - having held the ECU in my hand, it's not easily serviced. There are no screws or tabs to unlock and look. Although I could be mistaken as I never pulled the header out of the connector. Could be something in there but I doubt it.
 

fazil

Junior Member
Does that mean either the 5VX or 4S8 prefix ECUs are compatible with US bikes?

No i don't think they fit each other. Eu bikes should have extra immo wires connecting to ecu. But i guess they can fit with some modding.
 
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TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6
Site Supporter
Well, I agree, I don't know how they would pull it apart if "epoxied" or whatever is used but they apparently have a method.

I would think most repairs would require access to the inside of the unit.

Another plus is knowing they FOUND something wrong with your unit (or didn't) and is functioning correctly when you recieve it back. No guessing..
 

TheFemaleBiker

Junior Member
After waiting weeks for an ECU to pop up on eBay, I managed to get one with all the locks and 3 keys for a reasonable price. I swapped the ecu over and plugged the new ignition barrel in yesterday, the result... My bike is back up and running on all 4 cylinders again.

Thanks for all the suggestions/recommendations etc. I am very happy that my bike is working again.

I've fitted the new fuel cap and seat lock, haven't swapped the helmet lock over yet, but I never used it anyway. Now I just need to drill out the old bolts holding the ignition barrel in and fit the new one with some new bolts. :D
 
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FinalImpact

2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone
Super Moderator
Site Supporter
Good news! Thanks for sharing!
Is there an alarm module that ties this all together?

FWIW: with the triple clamp unbolted, i simply inverted mine and clamped it on the left fork stanchion tube and used that as a holder. Very stable for drilling.

Throw a magnet in a paper sack to catch the flying chips and this method works well!
 

TheFemaleBiker

Junior Member
Good news! Thanks for sharing!
Is there an alarm module that ties this all together?

FWIW: with the triple clamp unbolted, i simply inverted mine and clamped it on the left fork stanchion tube and used that as a holder. Very stable for drilling.

Throw a magnet in a paper sack to catch the flying chips and this method works well!
There is no alarm, just an immobiliser. The ignition barrel is the receiver and the key's are chipped, the ignition barrel sends the data to the ECU when you put the key in which then allows the bike to be started etc. Hence the new set of keys and barrel that came with my ECU. If it's the wrong chip in the key then the bike won't start.

I'm going to try drilling the bolts out without having to take the top yoke/triple clamp off, my headlight (MT-03 headlight) is easily removed so I can get at them, but the bracket that holds my speedo on is bolted to where the metal cable guide used to be for the throttle cables, making it a pain to take it all off. It's either drill them or use a hacksaw and chop into the old ignition barrel and cut through the bolts that way. Going to have a bash it at tomorrow and see how it goes.
 
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FinalImpact

2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone
Super Moderator
Site Supporter
As you can see mine was done in plan sight and every drill angle was available. Even at that, staying on center is tough. I'd call it IMPOSSIBLE to do in place....

Please stay away from all firearms and baseball bats should you attempt this upside fighting the mass of enemies in your opposition.
 

TheFemaleBiker

Junior Member
As you can see mine was done in plan sight and every drill angle was available. Even at that, staying on center is tough. I'd call it IMPOSSIBLE to do in place....

Please stay away from all firearms and baseball bats should you attempt this upside fighting the mass of enemies in your opposition.
Hmm, Thanks for the tips. I will give it a go. if all else fails, there is always a hammer ;)
 

DruGus

(non) ClockWorking Fazer
I am happy for your good resolution. I had a very similar problem over only 1&4 cylinders working. Tried to change for two mew coils as ecu shows 34 error signal. After coil change everyrhing^s working fine again bur after first ride in hottest hours got back in a recovery car. After that in official service changed for a new ecu & locks. Today again in two cylinders. serious about selling bike for parts.

<tapatalk mode on galaxy S3>
 

ozgurakman

Özgür Akman
I am happy for your good resolution. I had a very similar problem over only 1&4 cylinders working. Tried to change for two mew coils as ecu shows 34 error signal. After coil change everyrhing^s working fine again bur after first ride in hottest hours got back in a recovery car. After that in official service changed for a new ecu & locks. Today again in two cylinders. serious about selling bike for parts.

<tapatalk mode on galaxy S3>
if problem occured after changed the ecu again, you would try to revert ecu change.

You should check the spark plugs, foulty plugs can be easily damage the coils.
 

DruGus

(non) ClockWorking Fazer
Not related. Coil & spark plugs are new. Ecu fail was tested in co. Bye.

<tapatalk mode on galaxy S3>
 

Stringbean781

New Member
Re: Ignition coils // Its Dead Jim!

So, I've seen several forms of electrical carnage but blowing the end from potted ignition coil, that takes the cake there!

When is the last time the spark plugs were inspected?
I'm sure they are mostly OK but damages like that are most often caused when the load (spark plugs) have to big of gap so the coils energy is released internally to itself. This creates heat inside which leads to electrical breakdown of the coils internal wires. Hint: internally there are two copper wires wrapped around a core perhaps a hundred times. When the dielectric coating on the wires fail, it shorts internally and over heats.

That fuse swap may have been the final stray and I'd guess it was the sound you heard as the potting split.

I have a thread you should read when putting this back. It involves verifying the plug caps are snug to the wires.

Can you do me a favor and see if the wires unscrew from the coils? Turn them counter clockwise. You may have to undo that keeper.

Also, if you end up having to reuse the plug caps, it would be wise to verify the ceramic resistor inside measures 10K ohms.

Glad your OK and the shut down didnt leave you in a bad way. I can imagine riding a 2 cylinder I4 was not pleasant.

That SAID; the exhaust may be full of fuel and this could be hazardous when spark is applied. Also an oil change might not be a bad idea. How far was it ridden that way?
Recently my bike did the same thing and the diagnostic mode pointed to #30 which are the #1 & #4 ignitions. I test the primary resistance and it was 3ohms which is out of spec. I need to go back and do other test in this thread. I just need some clarification on what you mean when you say coil caps, unscrew the wires from the coil, and a few other components. I appreciate all the info you gave and I hope you can help me with my issue. 2007 FZ6 SHG 19,000 miles
 

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TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6
Site Supporter
I just need some clarification on what you mean when you say coil caps, unscrew the wires from the coil, and a few other components.
The "snipping"/shortening a coil wire is at THE SPARK PLUG end, not at the coil.

There's a very fine "screw" centered in the cap so if the cap is loose on the wire, that would be a candidate to slightly (maybe 1/4") and carefully re-thread the cap back on the wire.

Also, the rubber seal around the plug cap tends to harden up over time and make removal/installation difficult. If you put lust a little dielectric grease on the rubber where it touches the valve cover, it'll slip on much easier and you'll literally hear it "click" on the spark plug..


.
 

Stringbean781

New Member
The "snipping"/shortening a coil wire is at THE SPARK PLUG end, not at the coil.

There's a very fine "screw" centered in the cap so if the cap is loose on the wire, that would be a candidate to slightly (maybe 1/4") and carefully re-thread the cap back on the wire.

Also, the rubber seal around the plug cap tends to harden up over time and make removal/installation difficult. If you put lust a little dielectric grease on the rubber where it touches the valve cover, it'll slip on much easier and you'll literally hear it "click" on the spark plug..


.
Awesome that helps! This weekend I was able to “unscrew” the wires from the plug caps. I went to test the plug for 10k ohms and my meter wasn’t readying anything. I bought a nicer meter last night. I will try and get some actually readings tonight.
Question: can/should the wires that come out of the coil and go to plug caps be taken out?
 

TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6
Site Supporter
Awesome that helps! This weekend I was able to “unscrew” the wires from the plug caps. I went to test the plug for 10k ohms and my meter wasn’t readying anything. I bought a nicer meter last night. I will try and get some actually readings tonight.
Question: can/should the wires that come out of the coil and go to plug caps be taken out?
I don't think anyone's pulled the wire from the coil, no reason to.

I suspect vibs, folks pulling plug caps(it is tight in there), moving in a tight area, tends to loosen up the connection at the cap.

Tighten till snug, it's not a bolt so stripping/spinning the cap too much is defeating the purpose

Frankly, I wouldn't pull from the coil, or at least just do the caps if need be..
.
 

Stringbean781

New Member
I don't think anyone's pulled the wire from the coil, no reason to.

I suspect vibs, folks pulling plug caps(it is tight in there), moving in a tight area, tends to loosen up the connection at the cap.

Tighten till snug, it's not a bolt so stripping/spinning the cap too much is defeating the purpose

Frankly, I wouldn't pull from the coil, or at least just do the caps if need be..
.
Thanks! I got a new multimeter and the coil reads 1.6, plug caps read 10k and 9.5k, and secondary reads 14k which are all well... unsure what the problem could be. Now it won’t start and nothing pops up for diagnostics mode.
 
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trepetti

It's all good!
Elite Member
Site Supporter
Recently my bike did the same thing and the diagnostic mode pointed to #30 which are the #1 & #4 ignitions. I test the primary resistance and it was 3ohms which is out of spec. I need to go back and do other test in this thread. I just need some clarification on what you mean when you say coil caps, unscrew the wires from the coil, and a few other components. I appreciate all the info you gave and I hope you can help me with my issue. 2007 FZ6 SHG 19,000 miles

JM2C but as I recall you will spend a lifetime trying to get the high tension leads on the Denso coils to stay well connected at both ends. On my 05, I ended up cleaning up the spark plug end a few times. And Final Impact worked on BOTH ends of his.

Take a look at the Coil Over Plug posts in this thread, starting at post 193..... https://www.600riders.com/threads/vibration-a-cure-for-bad-vibrations-spark-plug-caps.48874/page-10

BuzzBomb replaced his coils with FZ07 individual coils, which completely replaces the high tension leads and all the associated problems.. I followed his lead and did the mod myself. If you are ok with crimping connectors, this is not a very difficult mod. And it works great!

If you are interested, give a read to BuzzBomb and my posts. And if you have any questions just shoot me a line.

Good luck
 
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