Installed FZ1 Bars, need help with brake line

chomorro

Junior Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2011
Messages
696
Reaction score
4
Points
0
Location
San Diego
Visit site
I bought 2010 FZ1 bars from parts shark.com for my 05 FZ6 $36.96 Shipped.

First impressions: Its not wider then the fz6r bar at all. I know i read somewhere that the fz1 bar is much longer or wider then stock but i didnt experience this. I was actually disappointed as well because the wrist position looks almost identical to the fz6r bars. I decided to put them on anyways to try them. I did have to file down the nubs on the controls so i didnt have to drill a any holes in the bar, but over all no big deal. Have not ridden yet because its rainy looking all day today in SD. :(

I do have an issue that i need help with. After adjusting the bars so i have barely enough clearance from lock to lock and not hitting the tank. My brake line looks pinched sort of. I pushed it over the big top of the fork thing but its still pretty tight. It rubs the odometer when at full lock to the left and presses against the clamp bolt very strongly. Suggestions?? :confused:

Pics:

CIMG1216.jpg

CIMG1215.jpg

CIMG1214.jpg


On the Bike

CIMG1217.jpg

CIMG1218.jpg


My brake line issue

CIMG1219.jpg

CIMG1220.jpg
 
The hose looks twisted. did you rotate or twist the master cylinder/brake handle when you swapped bars? If you unbolt the brake lever/master cylinder assy and turn it 1 round I'd bet it will all lay right.
 
Just did mine a month ago. You have to barely loosen the from the brake line to the resiviour(sp)? Just enough to move it to clear the tripple and fork tube.
 
Very easy solution and most of us had to do this for this install.

You just need to loosen the banjo nut (the nut that looks like it holds the brake line in place) and rotate the line up towards the center of the bike, so it'll sort of sit at the top of the fork leg, not on the inside of it.

Of course you've jammed it up in there, so you'll have to loosen the master cylinder first so that you can un-jam it :D

Oh and when you do loosen the brake line nut, do NOT squeeze the front brake. Just loosen the nut ever so slightly so that you can rotate the line. Tighten back up when done and you should be good to go.
 
Very easy solution and most of us had to do this for this install.

You just need to loosen the banjo nut (the nut that looks like it holds the brake line in place) and rotate the line up towards the center of the bike, so it'll sort of sit at the top of the fork leg, not on the inside of it.

Of course you've jammed it up in there, so you'll have to loosen the master cylinder first so that you can un-jam it :D

Oh and when you do loosen the brake line nut, do NOT squeeze the front brake. Just loosen the nut ever so slightly so that you can rotate the line. Tighten back up when done and you should be good to go.

Excellent, will try it now if its not raining
 
Thanks for posting your pics...sorry you are having problems. I just got my bar today so I appreciate the solutions if I run into this as well.
Cheers
 
I just put mine on a couple a weeks ago and i have a question for anyone who has had them for a long time. Is there any long term issues with the front brakes being that the resivour isnt level?

Sent from my R800x using Tapatalk
 
I just put mine on a couple a weeks ago and i have a question for anyone who has had them for a long time. Is there any long term issues with the front brakes being that the resivour isnt level?

Sent from my R800x using Tapatalk

Nope. Res only needs to be level to check the fluid and to bleed. Otherwise it's sealed and can be rotated up or down quite a bit without issues.
 
Nope, 06+ are all the same.

Thought they are wider. Does that small angle change do that much for the wrists? I see that you have to lean more as well because they drop a bit and that would put even more weight on the wrists.
 
Thought they are wider. Does that small angle change do that much for the wrists? I see that you have to lean more as well because they drop a bit and that would put even more weight on the wrists.

If weight is on your wrists when you ride, you're not riding properly. You should be grabbing the tank with your knees and using your body to take pressure off of your extremities. Only input the bars when you need to maneuver/turn. I learned this the hard way after having some rides where vibrations were so bad in my hands they went numb. Turns out I was just gripping too hard and putting weight in the wrong places.

I personally love the FZ1 bars MUCH more than the stock ones. It feels like a different bike.
 
Well I am interested in the FZ1 bars mostly for longer trips. I get tired fast if I squeeze the tank for hours. I will try changing them and see what it feels like when riding for 2-3 hours. Thanks man ;)
 
Well I am interested in the FZ1 bars mostly for longer trips. I get tired fast if I squeeze the tank for hours. I will try changing them and see what it feels like when riding for 2-3 hours. Thanks man ;)

This is just my personal experience and it may not work out the same for you, but with stock bar I would start to feel crippled after about 20 minutes.
With FZ1 bar I've ridden for 6 hours without any discomfort :D
 
Nope. Res only needs to be level to check the fluid and to bleed. Otherwise it's sealed and can be rotated up or down quite a bit without issues.

I didnt think it would be a issue but someone asked me about it and it got me thinking because after fliping my 4 wheeler i never bent the handle bars back because it actually looked cool with them rolled down a bit but my brakes started acting up but that also controled both front and rear brakes....straighten them back no more problems...4 wheeler though


Sent from my R800x using Tapatalk
 
Back
Top