intake vacuum adjustment with morgan carbtune

[ozgurakman]

Hi, I'm complaining to fuel consumption of my fazer. I'm thinking to upgrade the spark plugs to iridium ones and sync the t. bodies.
I just replaced plugs before 3k miles with cr9ek. air filter is oem, if I install the k&n, consumption increases. I believe tb sync is way off or bike is too lean because of my CO adjustment (C1 is -10 and C2 is -2 also my city's altitude is 590 feet / 180 meters).

There is no drag on wheels, rear wheel is aligned and chain is brand new did xring and well lubed/cleaned. sprockets are also brand new and oem.
tyres are 33psi on front, 37 psi on rear. chain slack is 55 milimeters.

idle is at 1200 rpm. if I increase, I believe the consumption is increasing but not sure much.
oil is at 2100 miles, motul 7100 10w50. oil filter is at ~3000 miles and oem.
exhaust is stock.
there is not any load on electrical system except factory assembled things. no mods, no fog lights etc.

Let's speak with numbers. My 2005 fz6 fazer consumes 8 lt/100 km in city and 6 lt /100 km in high way with avaragely 72 mph / 120 kmh.
My goal is 5 liters per 100 km on highway and 7 liters per 100 km in city traffic.

I readed all topics about iridium plugs and k&n filter. There is not any certain things about fuel consumption.

After tons of info, let me ask my question.
Will iridium plugs cure the consumption a little?

And can I adjust the vacuum to 29 kpa/218 mm Hg with morgan carbtune when synching tb's? I know very first cylnder is as standart for map sensor. Factory service manual says don't touch it and adjust anothers. But I want to be sure for intake vacuum is same as factory values.

Also, any infos for CO adjustment without dyno or CO sniffer will be accepted with pleasure.

Sorry for my lacky English.
thanks for reading and commenting. have a good day.

 

[FinalImpact]

Current issue is:
8 lt/100 km in city // ~ 35mpg
6 lt /100 km free range //~ 47mpg << Normal IMO


At a glance:

1) it matters how you spend your time riding. If in town and you're in 1st and 2nd gear maybe 3rd gear you simply don't travel as far as you do when in 5th and 6th at highway speeds. This will drop the distance traveled per tank. There is no way around that.

2) Plugs and Fuel
You could throw the other plugs in, but in short, if its burning the fuel its not going to make a huge difference. The combination of properly gapped plugs and quality fuel can help. Some Fuels burn better than others. Try a different fuel source and or higher octane. Its very likely it won't make a difference but you might try...
FWIW: on my cage where the ECM advances the ignition timing with higher octane fuel, I get 2.5 mpg further so it pays to use better fuel. The bike DOES NOT max out the Ignition advance to aid in power/economy so in most cases, better FUEL WILL NOT HELP IT. Cage has a knock sensor and active (closed loop feed back) so it gets the most from the fuel. Bike Does not.

--> However, I have statically advanced the ignition on FZ and it appears to have offset the added fuel via CO adjust.

3) Idle speed vs vacuum.
As the idle speed goes up, so will the vacuum. Its very sensitive. Because the idle fuel primarily based on engine temperature and RPM, you changing the air volume is not going to have a huge impact on fuel consumption.
POINT: I think FSM quotes 1300 RPM vacuum to get 218mmHg.
Set your idle to 1200, 1250, 1300, 1350 and watch the vacuum. Does it drop into the window where the FSM says it should?

Look here: see the Idle Air Hoses from the IACV to the TB? As soon as the Throttle Plates open, those tiny hoses are not flowing much air. Point: Everyone has this notion that a TB sync cures aliments up to 4000 RPM, but the reality is the IACV (TB sync) is just a CONTROLLED AIR LEAK. The Throttle Plates when opened are flowing 90% of the air the engine consumes. At idle there is some air leaking around the Throttle Plates but most of the air is through the IACV.

On long runs on the highway I get 45 to 50 MPG and I run the RPMs up there all the time. I never lug it.

If you can, toss a small vacuum gauge on the bike ans go for a ride. Keep the vacuum as high as possible while cruising. Connect it to the Vacuum sensor with a T...

Vacuum sensor is lower right in this pic.

Some other threads like this:
http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-technical/54197-spark-plug-question.html?highlight=JJD952+tune

Last post here: http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...stment-leo-vince-5.html?highlight=JJD952+tune


Post 4: http://www.600riders.com/forum/gara...uneven-idle.html?highlight=sync,+vacuum,+IACV

LOL Based upon "THANKS" button usage, you found the posts that I had thoughts on... --> another --> http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...le-warm-hot.html?highlight=sync,+vacuum,+IACV

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Just to add to the above Ozgur, getting the vacuum levels even across the board is the most important.

I tried getting my vacuum up to spec's (at sea level, 1,300 RPM idle), would NOT happen. Played with #1 screw, no difference..... Just leave #1 alone and sync to get all even at idle and 4,000k RPM's.

*If you run out of adjustment with the other screws for some reason, OPEN #1 just slightly and it'll give you MORE adjustment in 2, 3 & 4.

Getting the sync as close as possible at 4k helps with reducing the vibes.

Yamaha spec's allow for 10 mm variance. With some effort, I have mine within 3mm's of each other at idle and 4k, very, very smooth. When I get an annoying vib thru the seat, its time for a sync...

To my knowledge (reading here), the K&N will flow more air than OEM. With that said, the ECU will adjust and put more fuel as needed to keep the air/fuel ratio proper.

The CO adjustments, to my knowledge, (mine are set stock), affect low speeds, not in the higher RPM's, over all fuel economy.

Plus 1 with Randy, 47 MPG, (US gallons), is generally (IME) roughly the stock MPG's for a relatively stock bike.

Something NOT mentioned; Check your brakes for excessive drag. Yamaha recommends caliper seal replacement every TWO YEARS. I've found 4-5 years is more realistic....

My old seals had the front brake with about 3/4 of "free spin", by hand as hard as you can.

After the new seals were installed, about 4.5 turns (same force).

You also check by stopping after a decent ride with say the front brakes ONLY, feel the rear disc. it should cold to cool. If its hot, and you DIDN'T apply them, their dragging and need servcing.

Do the same to check the fronts...(of course be careful and don't grab a potentially hot disc)

 

[fazil]

I have KN filter with open filter box mod and Akrapovic exhaust with db killers. And the fuel consumption is like:

7lt/100km city riding
5.5lt/100km highway riding.

May be the TPS adjustments are not right for your bike. You can check it with diagnostic mod.

 

[FinalImpact]

Although I agree that a smoother running engine will burn less fuel, sitting at idle is NOT when fuel is being consumed at a rate that solves this problem!

Well, unless the bike is used to idle across town at 1500 RPM.

Lets say you hold the RPM at 6000 RPM for one minute in each gear:
Your speed and distance is as follows:
MPH - Miles
27.33 - 0.455
39.94 - 0.666
49.98 - 0.833
58.34 - 0.972
65.35 - 1.089
71.81 - 1.197

Point: If you spend too much time at lower speeds & lower gears, your distance traveled will drop per tank.

No tune will fix this. So my question is; what is your trip distance and average speed in town? IIRC my return trip in traffic city streets is something like 22 mph and at least 14" are spent sitting at traffic lights.

Ride to work is closer to 58mph average. << Highway gears and speed.

Point: the morning vs evering commute gets me an average of 40mpg for commuting. If I only traveled in town in rush hour I would also get 35 mpg just like you.....

 

[ozgurakman]

Tps is 15 101 at diag, no drag on brakes.
I'll sync the tbs soon. Thanks for all info

Yes traffic is heavy in my city and total distance per ride is 6-8 mile. I warm the bike to first bar at engine heat on clock. S1 hasn't got water temp info on dash.