Keep it Simple; Chain Adjustment made easy!

[FinalImpact]

+1

I don't understand what the added step of using a feeler gauge does. But, I'm not very mechanically inclined.

1 advantage it has over moving the adjusters with the axle loose is you get to determine the chain tension without moving the adjusters. You reduce the chance of miss count due to going back and forth until the chain is proper.

Just sayin its an option and here is an explanation about how to do it. it's your choice and your bike. Feel free to count your nuts.

 

[CowtownBiomed]

In MY world, .0082" resolution is good enough for a machine that flexes under cornering load by as much as .750" from front to rear.

Wow...really? 3/4" of flex is typical?
I knew things flexed to some degree, but I didnt realize it was that much..

I agree though, a hundreth of an inch is plenty acurate enough for these machines.

 

[FinalImpact]

Ok - lets run with some new thoughts. . . plz forgive the blurry photos the camera refused to lock on the calipers. . . Check these out:

To the end of the casting shows the castings are not equal. There was 0.016" difference (ok +/-0.002") and it could be the block or the casting. IDK I didn't measure the block. Because its a casting and its rounded I'd say avoid using this as measuring point.

From here, well you have to measure around the nut so I had to flip the calipers. But wholly Cr@p, the numbers are within a 0.002" when measuring the the same area the adjusters contact the block and swing arm! HAHA!
That'd be news to me!

Most folks can afford a string, some tape, and $4.00 set of feeler gauges so this is why i wrote this. If you want some Veneer Calipers, be my guest and buy them!

 

[CowtownBiomed]

Thanks Final, at least I now know (as do the rest of us).
I apreaciate your work on this.

Cheers
Cow...

 

[FinalImpact]

I just went out and measured mine, they were only out by 0.015'
Well within what anyone would notice..even a string wont get you that acurate.

FWIW I measure from the back of the swing arm to the nut housing..

At this point I may beg to differ! See above! I think the 5o cent string got it pretty darn close but again I was looking at the chassis thrust line more so than hash marks or where the axle blocks landed within the OEM marks.

This has opened some new doors so I say Good Job bringing in another way to do things! Now if we can confirm string align and this both yield the same results on undamaged frames, those with calipers have a quick way to adjust slack! http://www.600riders.com/forum/how-tos/40463-how-string-align-your-rear-wheel.html

 

[CowtownBiomed]

From your top two pictures it looks like you are trying to measure from the mid of the swingarm finished radius.
Because it is too hard to get that exact on both sides, I use the bottom of the indent right next to the hash marks..
That way you dont get any variance due to location..

 

[FinalImpact]

For those of you not familiar with Veneer Calipers, the slide out the end is there for performing "depth" measurements. It is just as accurate as the calipers internal and external jaws.

Just so you don't give me that funny look!

 

[CowtownBiomed]

Lmao...ya..why are you measuring your tire...:eyebrow:

 

[vinmansbrew]

Might have to try the caliper method sometime as I have digital calipers accurate to .002, more than close enough.
For years I have done the "count the face" method that photo and Cali use. It has always been reliable.

The feeler gauge I suppose might be ok but time consuming. To me anyways since I am so used to the other method.

 

[FinalImpact]

Lmao...ya..why are you measuring your tire...:eyebrow:

For God's sakes man, I'm tryin to figure out how to measure the:

:welcome:

 

[ChevyFazer]

I know I'm probably going to get flamed for this but oh well here it goes...

I used to use a stick rule with a slide on my vstrom to get it "dead nuts" but since I've had the fz I've just been "eyeing" it when ever i have the rear wheel off, never had any vibration, odd tire wear, or pulling one way or the other.
And when I go to adjust the chain I just make sure I turn each side equal. I know it's the lazy way but so far it's worked for me, however 1st sign of abnormal tread wear or anything else out of the ordinary ill be going back to measuring.

Over the weekend did lots of work including installing a new rear
View attachment 43983View attachment 43984

 

[FinalImpact]

I know I'm probably going to get flamed for this but oh well here it goes...

I used to use a stick rule with a slide on my vstrom to get it "dead nuts" but since I've had the fz I've just been "eyeing" it when ever i have the rear wheel off, never had any vibration, odd tire wear, or pulling one way or the other.
And when I go to adjust the chain I just make sure I turn each side equal. I know it's the lazy way but so far it's worked for me, however 1st sign of abnormal tread wear or anything else out of the ordinary ill be going back to measuring.

Over the weekend did lots of work including installing a new rear
View attachment 43983View attachment 43984

but if we flame you; its' VERY likely we'd burn our Chicken Strips!

 

[ChevyFazer]

LOL!!! Na it'll be ok I ate mine the other day