Last effort before just getting rid of the headache...or taking to mechanic

TownsendsFJR1300

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Do the compression test first, throttle wide open.


Re TDC, the marks are on the trigger wheel(ignition) under the cam chain cover(right side).

You can also rotate the engine (for the particular cylinder your checking) using the starter.
As you feel compression build on THAT CYLINDER, poke a screw driver down and touch
the top of the piston till it comes up fully. Now, your at TDC on the compression stroke.

You can also lock up the crank with a socket and breaker bar reaching thru the CENTER cover
located on the cam shaft cover.

Re spark, you can just ground out the spark plug wire to the engine / frame..
 

FinalImpact

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I will throw a warning in here about **ANYTHING** you thread into the plug holes. Make certain it can NOT come apart leaving a threaded section in the plug well.
It being as deep as it is well it could be very difficult to remove and make a simple job a nightmare.

As for the firing order. Yes, four cylinders and one mark. The order is 1-2-4-3 starting with the cylinder on the stator side of the engine to the cluth side.

TDC is a T when it aligns to the engines case split for cyl #1, then rotate 180° for cyl #2, repeat 180° cycle for #4 and #3. Read the thread How to Adjust Your Valves in the how to sticky section..... its explained in there.

Ignition. Yes, insert spark plugs and touch the plug body to the headers. This allows the spark energy to jump to ground vs ringing back through the coil and damaging the ecu w high voltage.
 

Bruno1989

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Haven't gotten the adapter for the comp tester yet. Was wondering if anyone knows the size that I need bc I can't find literature on it and short of matching it took the spark plugs threads idk any other way of sizing it before I order.

Also hand tested the TBs and they all 4 seem to have decent suction evenly. But I still plan on doing a comp test

May be totally random but my headlight isn't hooked up, the previous owner had rigged his own ( which didn't work when I got it ) and I'm wondering if the ecu powers the headlights on these models and if that could have an effect on its current performance ( or lack thereof ), or if it was improperly wired and could of caused damage elsewhere. thanks
 

FinalImpact

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Dia: 10mm, pitch: 1mm

Lighting is (was) through a relay. It should have no impact.
 

Bruno1989

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Thanks for the info FinalImpact.

Paolo, I checked it through the bikes computer/dash controls and the values were accurate with what the manual stated but there may be other ways to check that I'm not aware of

Will post results of comp test asap
 

Bruno1989

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got the comp test done and it's amazing it cranked those couple times, cyl 1 was 90psi and the rest were around 60

So next is the question of rebuilding or replacing the motor. It looks like it'll have to come out either way
 
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FinalImpact

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Remove the valve cover! Check the timing!
Hopefully all the valves are not bent!

And ya, that explains why it cranks so FAST!!!
 

FinalImpact

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How do you know that?

Admittedly, all four holes not being the same is a bad bad bad sign!!!!
 

FinalImpact

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In one of the cranking videos you could hear the hole with more compression. Its what upset the balance or rhythm if you will.

Pull the valve cover and verify cam marks vs cranks timing mark. If those are indeed correct, you have issues.

All of these should align at the same time. If they do, now verify the Exhaust cam is indeed on the exhaust and vice versa...

Game is not over until you have facts! Dont loose hope!
attachment.php


attachment.php
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Well, now we're getting somewhere...

With the lower compression all across the board, It's leaning strongly towards the valve timing being out.
I wouldn't be yanking the engine yet, if at all...

Did you already pull the valve cover and rt side cam chain cover?

They both need to come off and all marks checked to see what's off...


If the valve's are bent,(getting ahead here) you can probably get by with pulling the head with the engine in the frame
 

Bruno1989

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Yes I the pulled the covers and everything lines up as it should with the rotor and cam gears, idk if the valves are bent but I guess I'd need to pull the head to tell
 

FinalImpact

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Because one hole is different than the others, yes, you need to pull the engine.

That said, bent valves will NOT have the correct valve lash. There is a lot to learn by looking under the cover which includes verifying the intake cam is on the intake side and the exhaust is the exhaust where they belong!

In fact removing the cams allows you to push each valve and listen to its action. You will know if they are bent. Could be done w cams in place, but after verifying the valves have SOME LASH, then pull them and inspect.

Also cylinder #1 should have its cam lobes opposing each each other... ARE THEY?

attachment.php
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Yes I the pulled the covers and everything lines up as it should with the rotor and cam gears, idk if the valves are bent but I guess I'd need to pull the head to tell

Quote: "Timing seems to be correct" End quote. How did you check this??



Can you post some pic's of the marks and locations of the cams/ crankshaft?
 
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Bruno1989

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[MENTION=15974]FinalImpact[/MENTION] will be out of town for a bit so will check the cams ASAP
[MENTION=6338]TownsendsFJR1300[/MENTION] the pics final impact posted are exactly what mine looks like, everything's aligned where it should be, will post pics as soon as I'm back in town
 
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Bruno1989

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image.jpeg

image.jpeg

image.jpeg


Sorry I take forever to post, haven't been home a lot. Looks like everything's in time and cyl 1s lobes are opposing each other

Idk why it posted the pics sideways but once you click on them they're rightside up
 
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FinalImpact

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[MENTION=6038]fazil[/MENTION]
A favor: can you align those R6 cams so the bolts align side by side and take a picture of the lobe orientation?


EDIT: actually - align the bolts like this. Take a picture from the top and then swap them. Align the same way and take another pic. If you know which is which, that would be good too!
attachment.php


My concern here is that intake and exhaust are swapped.
I would like to see how far off the lobes would be if they were swapped....

FWIW: when I had the exhaust cam out for valve clearance adjustment the exhaust cam had EXH visible on the casting and that EXH had a paint splotch on it....
 
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