loss of power - galloping feel

[dz0]

So.... my kid dropped my bike a couple of times, also ran it at too low of RPM's that the battery didn't charge. I recharged the battery, and took it our for a spin and now it can't hit 65MPH in first gear any more - which used to be top spee4d for first gear., It peaks at about 55MPH and feels kind of like a galloping horse. This could be 100% unrelated to the low speed drops. I replaced the plugs for a test - they old ones that came out were in mint condition (so I saved them). I re-balanced the intakes - and though they were off a little, it wasn't much and that did not improve my high RPM / redline performance.
Any thoughts as to what I should check or parts swap next to try to get the power back to what it used to be?

Thanks in advance for any t-shoot tips!!!

 

[Motogiro]

What is the mileage? Are the valves due to been done?
Has the bike been out of service for a period?
Check the air filter and maybe run some Sea Foam in the fuel.

@TownsenfFJR1300 swears by a Yamaha product he uses in his bike and marine engines.

 

[Gary in NJ]

Your son running the bike at too low an rpm would not cause the battery to discharge. However, a stator with low out put will not allow the battery to reach full charge AND will cause the type of power interruption that you are experiencing. Time to put a multimeter on each of the three legs of the stator. You might also check the diodes on the rectifier.

 

[Motogiro]

Fuel starvation would also be a problem. This sounds more the system is not delivering fuel or did someone change a sprocket on the bike for more low end torque? If the sprocket was changed you'd hit the rev limiter sooner. Are you sure you're not hitting the rev limiter?

If there were a voltage problem you should get an error 46 code from the ecu.

 

[FinalImpact]

Critters in the intake?
Worthwhile to lift tank and inspect air box?
Plugs would be rich if this were the case so I doubt you find anything but it should be ruled out.

Do you use the run stop kill switch to stop engine?

 

[dz0]

My daughter running the bike at too low of RPM definitely DOES cause the dual headlight to exceed what the generator can produce and it then leans on the battery and discharge it. I've had it happen just being stuck in traffic for a few hours in the city. From previous readings - these bike just barely put out enough power to cover them stock and if you mess with anything you can easily over run them. I'll see if I can figure out how to test the stator though.

Doesn't feel at all like I am hitting the rev limiter. This is a new poor behavior, not something that has been in place since I've had the bike. So actually, unless some error could occur that would lower the rev limiter's top number - then thgat isn't what I'm hitting. It's galloping, not total loss - when I hit the rev limiter - it's a different feel - like hitting a ceiling.

I usually, but not always use the kill switch. I'll look for critters.

 

[dz0]

Oh, also an old crank sensor error is in the codes. But it's not current. I need to figure out how to reset that and see if it gets thrown again. The tip-over errors are newer.

32000 miles on the bike. I'd have to have a pro touch the valves - last time I messed with valves on my dirt bike I never got the right again.
I like the theory of fuel starvation and perhaps sub optimal transfer of fuel and I'll pump some cleaner through it.

You guys are awesome!!
Thanks for the tips and info!

 

[FinalImpact]

I would refrain from stop switch usage. Use the key. The stop switch is weak and fails. Usually feels like it's down on cylinders or stops entirely.

Does the tank have visible rust inside? Water in the fuel is bad too. Does it idle OK? Stable?

 

[dz0]

So, more diagnostic information: It is not noticeable at idle. But, I rode my motorcycle very slowly yesterday. I guess I never really do that, but I've picked up a Ninjette for my kid to learn on and was following her around. I noticed the galloping feel at low RPM's too when I held it steady for a while. I guess I am usually accelerating to higher RPMs or decelerating so I don't notice the tugging. SO, I believe RPM is probably not a relevant "thing".

My d61 shows: 12, 19, 30, 46. I presumed the 46 was from when the battery got severely run down. I read something about throwing the kill switch while looking at the d61 code and shutting off the bike to clear them, but that didn't work for me. I think I am missing a step. I think someone else said that you need to pull a fuse to clear them - I'll try to find that, I'm not even sure where the fuses are on this bike.

I yanked the 2nd headlight cable while riding - but didn't notice if it had any impact at all. I will try to test that tomorrow. I was mostly paying attn to my "student".

Thanks again to everyone for thoughts and suggestions.

 

[FinalImpact]

Agreed, too much low RPM time with dual headlights will deplete the battery.

IIRC you have to be 60 and toggle the start stop to clear errors. That is the correct process. But you need to be in the proper field for it to work.

Fuses are under the tank (main 35amp) all others are under the rightside pod.

Top of the Tech section has a trouble shooting guide sticky and it has the field marked. Take a look there.

 

[dz0]

I guess it is 62 in order to erase. I tried 61 and I tried 60 but the code history persists. I will go try this and edit if it works:
62 Malfunction history code erasure
Displays the total number of codes that are being detected through self diagnosis and the fault codes in the past history.
Erases only the history codes when the engine stop switch is turned from OFF to ON. If the engine stop switch is ON, turn it OFF once, and then turn it back ON.
00
0 - 17 (00) Displays when there is no malfunction.

I've put a few miles on it with seafoam injector cleaner in it with no noticeable results yet. Going to pop the air cleaner today and also check connections to the ignition coils. After reading the vibration threads I am going to see how much vibe I can get rid of because this bike has always had quite a bit. MY plug heads seems to be firmly in place -= no twist-ability at all.

Yes it was 62 and toggle the switch.
The airbox was as clean as can be. I am going to begin re-seating and inspecting as many electrical connections as I can get my fingers on and get apart..
-The negative battery terminal was a bit loose. I snugged it up.

 

[dz0]

It was field "62" and throw the switch (on to off and back) to clear the historic codes. It does so immediately, no need to switch the key to take effect.

Oddly enough, I took the bike out to run some injector cleaner through it. I had a "19" code thrown and slow turn over when I went to start it. I turned the key off and back on, and it started right up without issue. This makes me think there is something up with the electrical system. I'll being looking through that soon as well. The injector cleaner hasn't seemed to make a difference yet - though it might be a matter of time. I haven't even run a half tank on it yet.

I want to check the coil contacts today and double check air cleaner area. I read the posts about this bike being capable of running smoothly. I am going to begin to aim for that as an achievement and hopefully fix the core reduced performance issue along the way.

 

[Motogiro]

Any of the parts of maintenance that your are doing to sort things out are great so continue with those. Since you had a dead battery event and then the start up was okay you should check your connections to the battery terminals as well as at the starter relay and fuse assembly located on top of the battery. This may not be related the main condition but should be checked.

The following may have some merit contributing or have responsibility for your symptoms: Most computerized systems have a learning curve where they look at sensors and develop adjustments in the software to compensate for sensors and warm up behavior. When you disconnect the battery for a period of time the voltages that hold this data in volatile memory drain. Disconnect the battery for 30 to 60 minutes then reconnect the battery. I don't know if it will drop the old error codes that have been stored but it may. It should drop the volatile memory. Start the bike and take it for a ride to see if it behaves differently. Don't rev it up right away. Let it warm up and ride it average for a couple of warm ups. Then see if the condition still exists when you wring it out.

 

[dz0]

So, on the way TO the mechanic to have him look at the valves and perhaps replace the chain, performance seemed to improve just a little. (Burned about 3/4's or more of the injector cleaner tank of gas.) I think I hit 60MPH in first. So maybe it has taken time for the injector cleaner to get through whatever trouble was in there. Mechanic said it was time to replace the chain so I green lighted that (I'll get ripped off). Then later they called me and said sprockets needed to go as well, but I'm skeptical. I'll get all my parts back for better inspection. The mechanic said he'd pressure test the fuel pump (replacement part alone is about 850$). He thought my problem description sounded like fuel starvation as well. I also asked him to look into plug wires but he was in denial. He said he'd never seen plug wires fail on this bike. So, I don't think I convinced him to replace them. I may have to do that myself. I'd love to see a vibration free bike. The one thing I hate about this bike is the tight working clearances, but I love almost everything else about it.

I'm super nervous about dissembling the plug caps, but I might do it even though they aren't loose. If there is any degradation in the connecting components, I could see that as potential problem for the vibration (not so much to loss of power)

Oh - the battery. I did pull the positive connector for a few days - didn't really notice a difference when I restored it. BUT - I had some corrosion on my negative terminal. It seems when I over-torqued the wire to the battery, I damaged the surface. Don't do that! lol So maybe next year I'll replace the battery. The tiny hole in the top is letting acid out when the bike got tipped.

 

[dz0]

OK, got it back from the dealer. They checked the valves ($296 with replacement coolant) and said they were clear. Have run through nearly the entire tank of injector cleaner. I think that actually helped. Replaced the chain (31K miles) and it seems to have lost the galloping feel. I don't feel that I am hitting the top speed I was hitting before in 1st gear but I am awfully close. I'm going to top off with the best gas I can buy, add more injector cleaner and see how it goes. Oh - the bike threw a sidestand switch code as well. So going to dig into that today as well.