May My Fz6 Rest In Peace

[FinalImpact]

So cylinder 2/3 coil failed?
I'd guess running with no spark is the root cause of most of the cylinder leakage issues as far as rings are concerned. That doesn't mean the valves are OK. But the compression # may not make a smooth idle but run OK under load.

In the states we rarely see the ECU fail, it the bikes with the immobilizers that seem to kill ecu/ coils. But thats not to say you can't go first.
Check the switch, swap coils, ecu in that order.

 

[Paydrow]

I bypassed my kill switch years ago. The ecu was replaced as well as the coils with a pair of used ones from ebay. This was all done during my first visit to the mechanic, where he guessed for 7 months replacing every possible electrical component.

 

[FinalImpact]

Was the ecu bad?
Which coil failed?
Do you know what year the coils came from?
Mind you mine never lost power, just had this bad vibration that made your butt numb!

 

[Paydrow]

ECU was fine. Don't recall which coil failed. I can't find the original document from my initial visit but I'm still looking.

Also, my YIEC arrived. Directions on the back state one should refer to the Yamaha service instructions to Inject the correct amount of liquid into each cylinder, based on particular model being serviced.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

ECU was fine. Don't recall which coil failed. I can't find the original document from my initial visit but I'm still looking.

Also, my YIEC arrived. Directions on the back state one should refer to the Yamaha service instructions to Inject the correct amount of liquid into each cylinder, based on particular model being serviced.

I'll post on the Yamaha Marine forum and see if I can get a # for you.

I suspect enough (do one cylinder at a time) at TDC so the valves "see" the cleaner too. You can spin over the engine by hand slowly (plug out) to distribute.


*Here's the post / thread, be patient, someone VERY knowledgeable will answer:
YIEC cleaning, Amount and time question? - Yamaha Outboard Parts Forum

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Here ya go, from a Master Tech:

"I typically mix about 16 Oz of YIEC to 3 qts of gas and run it".





Added info:

 

[Paydrow]

I read the thread you linked to on the Yamaha outboard forum and I just want to clarify something.

Spinning the engine by hand made sense but this set of instructions about a running engine confuses me.

After mixing the 16oz/3qt solution, am I supposed to keep this is in a different container and run my fuel line into it? Is the fuel line on the fz6 as simple as the one on my little Rebel's carb'd engine?

My other idea was to empty my tank, and refill with the exact ratio of the cleaner/fuel. Then empty after running it for 45-60mins and refill with fresh fuel to clear the fuel system.

If I can get to it tomorrow, I'll post an update in the evening.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

As the instructions are for an outboard engine, I would try to remove as much fuel as possible, THEN make a mix of the above percentage and put it in the tank.

Don't bother thinking about another tank, etc...The FZ is fuel injected with a specific, snap on fuel line (not just a piece of hose) unlike the Rebel...

As noted in the instructions, they want the engine pretty much idling for an hour. For the OB engine, it's not a problem, for the bike, I would put a large fan in front of the engine/radiator and get as much air to it as possible.

Rodbolt (a Master tech), just does the 16 oz / 3 quarts of fuel (less than a gallon). (not real good to run the tank that low-fuel cools the fuel pump).

As it's a LONG time Idling (maybe raise the idle a tad) I would probably use a garden hose and trickle water over the RADIATOR (the entire time running) which would also help cool the engine a bunch, (my main concern). That won't hurt anything, like riding in the rain...

The exhaust, as it works (and the engine running) is supposed to be VERY BAD to breath. The fan should help with that, so be very cognizant of it.

BTW, to my knowledge, your the first to use this product in a motorcycle (with really nothing to loose and for it to only run better).

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Any updates??

 

[Paydrow]

Any updates??

Hope my absence didn't worry you. Didn't end up doing it on Monday. Way too warm to be outside. Hoping for better weather next Monday, my only real day off.

 

[Paydrow]

Little update:

Just ran the bike with the cleaning mixture for a little over an hour. I was expecting smoke but didn't experience any. Just the occasional drop/fluctuation in rpm.
I'll empty the tank in a bit and run some fresh fuel through it.

 

[Paydrow]

Cylinder 3 is barely warm to the touch.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Time to start digging into cylinder #3 ….

Check for spark, then compression or better yet a "leak down test".

 

[Gary in NJ]

And those tests yield nothing, check the injector.

 

[trepetti]

And those tests yield nothing, check the injector.

Remember. Its air, fuel, spark. If 2 is firing then 3 should fire. Broken wire, bad plug are easy fixes. If 3 is low on compression then the plug would be sooty or wet. Swap the 2 and 3 plug wires and plugs to see if the problem moves to 2.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[Paydrow]

I'm so close to just chucking this engine out the back of a moving truck BUT! I will continue on. I'm way too curious/hard headed to call it quits now and I also value the information that will be attained through this and possibly be of use to someone else on this forum in the future.

Unfortunately, my work schedule is pretty nutty here so the updates will be sparse but I'll try and make them as thorough as possible to save time.

Thanks for the help guys. I really appreciate it.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

And those tests yield nothing, check the injector.

Plus 1 ^^^. The #3 spark plug should also show whitish or dry, more so than the others.

Also, the above makes sense with no carbon / smoke, etc coming out of the engine with that treatment.

With NO fuel going to that cylinder-it's NOT going to burn off anything W/O fuel to BURN...

 

[FinalImpact]

Can we back up for a minute. So you adjusted the valves yourself; did you record the as found, as left values? What shims were present and what the replacement values were?

If so, some math may solve this if you have the data!

These engines are not known for self destructive behavior of the cylinders. I'd lay odds on ignition fault followed by valve lash.

And if you have a syringe you could add fuel to the running engine to verify injector operation.

If the header heats up, injector is suspect. Assuming you have spark. Maybe shoot for 4500 rpm and trickle in fuel. RPM will raise if the hole comes to life.

Do inspect the plugs before doing above test. Actually just replace them.

But that whole low compression thing says leak down test followed by **most likely** valve adjustment.