Naked converted FZ6, how could I go about getting low and high beam functionality?

[Motogiro]

Hi, ive just skim read this thread and there’s a lot of confusing information but it’s actually quite simple and I’ve done it myself. You just need a wiring loom (search for bd43’s post in this forum). You then connect it to the existing wiring under your tank and voila your high and low beams will function as normal.

It's hard to find the bd43 wire anymore. I used to make a universal relay that also corrected the switching problem.
Here is a link (below) that has photos of the plug you refer to, where the the bd43 wire plugged into to give proper switched voltage to the low beam filament. Read my description in the post below the photos.
The other discussion we had on this thread refer to LED functions which seam to vary, leaving the low beam active during high beam activation regardless of the low switching. This occurs as the result of the LED switching logic internal to the LED power supply. This may have added to confusion following this thread as well as identifying color codes for the headlamp circuit.

ST2 Self-Cancelling Indicators

https://safer-turn.com/smart-turn-system/ Has anybody on the forum installed this self-cancelling indicator system? The appeal is that this device will turn off the indicators after you make a turn or lane change, or 15-20 seconds if you don’t turn. So no more constant blinking if you...

www.600riders.com

 

[CanadaFZ6]

So essentially all I'm doing here is continuing the green wire on the harness connector to the unused pin on the headlight connector,

The bd mod looks great for a clean oem style install but since that was over a decade ago and not available, I'm going to do it the hack quick and dirty way and tap the wire and run it to the headlight connector. I'm off due to the rona and finally have some time to look at this again. Honestly it seems easier than I thought when I was first looking into this.

 

[Gary in NJ]

Take photos please.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

So essentially all I'm doing here is continuing the green wire on the harness connector to the unused pin on the headlight connector,

The bd mod looks great for a clean oem style install but since that was over a decade ago and not available, I'm going to do it the hack quick and dirty way and tap the wire and run it to the headlight connector. I'm off due to the rona and finally have some time to look at this again. Honestly it seems easier than I thought when I was first looking into this.

It IS easy and literally, that simple. If you purchased the correct wiring connectors, you can easily make one (them) up. The original BD mod also had some "fibrous"(not the correct word) around a good part of the wire. Great if haphazardly installed, and makes it easier to follow once installed.

Tapping into the factory will work fine. As I re-call, a bit tight in there....


.

 

[trepetti]

Don't overthink the BD43 solution. No magic there, just need to know how to crimp. It is simply a wire with a .250" right-angle (aka flag) female spade connector for the headlight connector, and a .250" straight,, locking male spade connector for the wiring harness connector. Take a look at the Sumitomo (thanks to ShoopCE for his research) connectors at the bottom of this page: www.cycleterminal.com/250-connectors.html for the male connector, and www.cycleterminal.com/flag-terminals.html.

The parts you need are REALLY cheap. Connectors are under $1.00, but buy a bunch to cover crimping mistakes.

This is the way Yamaha intended it to work, which means it is the best combination of cheapest to implement and most reliable operation.

Whatever you choose to do, good luck and keep us informed.

 

[CanadaFZ6]

Thanks everyone for the quick replies and help I really appreciate it, I've started taking stuff off.

I found looking back at bd's old posts about the mod insanely helpful, for this and just to better understand the wiring situation upfront in general . The dual to single headlight wiring made a ton of sense after reading that. Brilliantly written for even the worst of electrical diyers. That combined with the wiring info @Motogiro sent me and I'm set

 

[CanadaFZ6]

Burnt out another bulb today because of my full time high beam setup. It was a dual bulb LED so I didn't think it really made much heat but who knows.... pretty weird.

Going to be switching over to a full time low beam setup instead and hopefully it lasts more than a week! Weather has been too nice lately for me to take the bike apart and run this new wire for the low/high function.

 

[CanadaFZ6]

The FZ6 for the US and other countries that was made with the half fairing had 2 headlight, On was and H7 use for the low beam and the other lamp was and H4. The H4 was a dual filament but was only wired to use the high beam filament. They did not continue the wire through the harness from a plug assembly that is below the battery. That would be the low beam filament for the naked models which was continued for the naked bikes. If you look you will find a low beam wire. It's a black with a green tracer. That was the wire that supplied voltage to your original H7 low beam. The problem with using that wire is that because it was going to a discreet lamp with no other filament it did not have to be shut off when the high beam was used to prevent overheating.
Right now you are using the black with a yellow tracer (high beam) wire to power your single filament, hence your high beam dash light is active. If you're only interested in one filament running and want to get rid of the blue hi beam indicator, swap the wire for the black with the green tracer.

If you want to wire the headlamp for full hi/lo beam operation there is more work to be done.

Older post but I tried to do this for a temp fix and unfortunately since that low beam bulb connector is not as far down the harness as the high beam one, the wires are way too short to reach the naked conversion bulb location. That's too bad.

I had one other question, so do you know the trick to removing the end of the wire inside of the bulb connector? There is that little door that opens, and you can see the terminals but they are clipped in. How do you properly undo these so they can be switched etc?

 

[Motogiro]

Older post but I tried to do this for a temp fix and unfortunately since that low beam bulb connector is not as far down the harness as the high beam one, the wires are way too short to reach the naked conversion bulb location. That's too bad.

I had one other question, so do you know the trick to removing the end of the wire inside of the bulb connector? There is that little door that opens, and you can see the terminals but they are clipped in. How do you properly undo these so they can be switched etc?

See figure 6 for the release tab. These picks are from a kit I used to make to convert any bike with the same configuration to dual headlight.

 

[MrMogensen]

I just ordered this for now. Should be fine even if both are on according to most who have done it here. Fingers crossed!

DZG H4 Motorcycle LED Headlight Bulb 9003 HB2 HS1 P43t 6500K CREE Chips High Low Beam Conversion Kit 2 Yr Warranty, 1 Pack, Headlight Bulbs - Amazon Canada

DZG H4 Motorcycle LED Headlight Bulb 9003 HB2 HS1 P43t 6500K CREE Chips High Low Beam Conversion Kit 2 Yr Warranty, 1 Pack in Headlight Bulbs.

www.amazon.ca

This unit you found on eBay...
Does it work without a ballast? Maybe that is just a thing of the past...
I bet if you drilled a little hole in your headlamp then that 10.000rpm fan in that DZG LED would increase your topspeed by 0,5 km/h

Like Motogiro I also ran with an LED setup with a short lifespan. Back on halogen.
Funny story is when I was running with the LED setup I was pulled over by 2 cops followed by a whole cameracrew. One of more Danish TV-channels, like so many others, run various police programs. One of the cops went on about that my LED lamps was quite bright and hardly legal and I was thinking (yep your most likely right about that). Before I could say anything the same cop suddently moved focus to my front wheel and whent on and on about that it was worn way too much and that the pattern should be more than 1,6 mm. And yes I had already ordered a new one but I didn't have to say anything before the cops partner stepped ind and said: "Eeerhhmmm on a motorcycle the pattern is allowed to be as low as 1 mm...". Camera was still rolling and the first cop just shortly said that if he saw me again with these LED bulps he would send me off to inspection - then told everyone to go back to the car and took off in a hurry... ... I don't think they ever used that clip.
The H4 LED died shortly after but it was probably too cheap.

 

[deathjam4]

I did a full write up on a dual headlight high beam low beam mod i did for this bike. the assembly came with a set of plugs that already had the 3 point plugs so i just spliced wires one side to the other. look at this post here and you will find it.

Headlights And understanding.

So as i understand it the reasoning behind the two different bulbs is so that when you change the lights the second one turns on and turns on the high beam on the main light. So instead i think ill buy 2 h4 led bulbs and cross the low beam into the other side so i have 2 active lows and...

www.600riders.com

 

[CanadaFZ6]

Okay okay so I am finally doing this. Was too nice outside to tear the bike apart during the good season. I have located the connector but not the terminal pieces in Canada to add to the connector to continue the green low beam switch wire. It was linked to me above from a USA site but holding off on that due it being expensive for a tiny connector with shipping and exchange. Is there any reason I can't just remove the green wire from the connector and crimp/solder and run a wire up the headlight independently of the connector? I am thinking I might go that direction right now.

Also just want to confirm this is indeed the wire?

 

[Gary in NJ]

It's not the green wire. The low-beam wire is a black wire with a green stripe and the high-beam is a black wire with a yellow stripe. I can see the high-beam wire in that connector, but not the low-beam. It may just be blocked from view.

In any event there's no need to de-pin the connector, simply splice (cut) the wire as needed from the output side of the connector.

 

[CanadaFZ6]

It's not the green wire. The low-beam wire is a black wire with a green stripe and the high-beam is a black wire with a yellow stripe. I can see the high-beam wire in that connector, but not the low-beam. It may just be blocked from view.

In any event there's no need to de-pin the connector, simply splice (cut) the wire as needed from the output side of the connector.

Thanks, from past discussion in the thread it seems like the green wire is needed to be continued though from the handlebar switch end of the connector. Now that I have one headlight I believe just switching the other wire from the unused headlight connector over to the headlight connector I'm using would result in both filaments being on all the time due to how the original two lamp system was wired. I am trying to achieve one filament of the H4 dual filament bulb on at time and make my low/high switch work again. I may be not stating this correctly but others seemed to think that green wire was a must to do this properly.

 

[Gary in NJ]

If you use an LED H4 and wire the H4 as I noted above, you will have normal low-beam operation and high-beam operation will have both "elements" (hi & lo) on at the same time. The LED's I'm using tolerate this operation - and they put out more light. Don't over think this.

 

[CanadaFZ6]

If you use an LED H4 and wire the H4 as I noted above, you will have normal low-beam operation and high-beam operation will have both "elements" (hi & lo) on at the same time. The LED's I'm using tolerate this operation - and they put out more light. Don't over think this.

Yeah. Honestly I don't know why I didn't go this route. I think in my mind I was thinking I didn't want to do two filaments on long term but it seems like its fine with LED. I guess really I didn't need to take the bike apart at all as I can just extend the original black/green wire from the unused headlight connector and add it to the empty "low beam" spot in the connector I'm using. (original high beam connector with the switch set to high beam at all times). Its too bad the wire isn't longer but it was meant to just run to the left side light so it makes sense. Shouldn't be too hard to adjust though.

Fortunately I am also doing a valve check so I am 75% of the way there by taking apart what I already have. It is overdue and I want the peace of mind I'm not going to burn up a tight valve this season or something.

Thanks for the help!!!

 

[durk96]

I love the look of the stock FZ6 lights!

 

[CanadaFZ6]

I love the look of the stock FZ6 lights!

I found the s1 half fairing super ugly but never got around to changing it until I crashed and didn't have a choice, to me the FZ6N is way better looking. The s2 style is a bit better looking. Less bulky and looks sleeker

 

[Motogiro]

Okay...That plug is a great picture! According to the schematic the wires will change color code at that plug The hi beam (at the plug) should be a yellow wire. The lo beam (at the plug) is the green wire. The yellow hi beam wire should change color code from yellow to a black with yellow tracer.
The green wire shows it turns into black with a green tracer, but look at the plug. Does that green wire continue through the plug turning into black with a green tracer? The schematic shows the hi beam switch has 3 wires. The headlight power relay is activated after the engine is started. This relay supplies power to the the hi beam switch through a blue with black tracer wire. The high beam switch toggles voltage to the high beam via the yellow wire to that plug. When the hi beam is off it toggles the power to the low beam which is not connected in the US bikes. That wire according to the schematic is color coded black. So start the bike so the the head light relay is active. If you hit the kill switch, leaving the key on, the head light relay should stay active Probe the black wire on that plug for voltage. If there is voltage, turn on the high beam. If that black wire looses power it is the wire that is supplying the lo beam in the single head light FZ6 models that are generally not US models. If this is the case you want to get your low beam powered by that black wire.

Edit: There appears to be a dark green and a light green wire at the plug. The light green wire is probably the lo beam and can be confirmed when the key is on, there will be no voltage and when the engine is started there will be voltage.

 

[CanadaFZ6]

Thanks guys. My brain is mush these days and its been a while since I originally posted this thread so as I see it, I have two options at this point for a working dimmer switch.
1) Use the green wire from the connector continued to the low beam terminal of the H4 bulb for true single filament low/high beam switching.

Option 2) Take the low beam wire from the existing headlight connector, extend it longer and fix it to the "high beam" connector that I'm currently using, have a switchable low/high beam but the only difference will be both filaments lit at once when in high beam mode.