Need front wheel help, please?!

[Kenward]

GOT EVERYTHING TAKEN CARE OF, THANKS EVERYONE!

Switched out the fork seals, 15w oil, and Racetech 1.0kg springs. Also ditched the stock hugger for an aftermarket chainguard that I painted flat black along with the rearsets and passenger pegs.

Black is beautiful, baby.

I'll get better pics later.


I know that this sounds like a stupid question, but I'm seriously having a problem here. Which way should I turn the bolt to loosen the front axle? I figured it would be lefty loosey just like everything else, but I can't get the thing to budge. I did loosen the pinch bolt on the front, and I even tried turning the bolt to the right, but nothing. Eventually, I actually snapped the bolt i was using as a tool to remove the axle.

I have a bad fork seal that need replacing, and my bike is currently partially disassembled in my living room, so I'm hoping to get this done soon.

 

[jbwaterman84]

It's left as normal. Just really hard to get out the first time, especially if it's been in there awhile. I used an impact driver with the allen socket and it'll come right out

 

[Kenward]

That's what I thought, but I don't have an impact driver. I was looking at renting one at Home Depot a half hour ago, but they don't have it to rent. I've snapped two bolts now, and everything is closed. This kinda really sucks.

 

[QwickFliCk]

lefty loosey. it was hard for me too. i used a spark plug socket and a pipe wrench w a pvc pipe on the handle of the pipe wrench give you more leverage:thumbup:

 

[Wildcat_drvr]

Make sure you bolts are strong, grade 8 if possible, not cheap hardware store kind. Use a cheater bar on a breaker bar with 6 sided socket, impact style if you can get it. I must need a drink with all this talk of bars?? Rich :rockon:

 

[RJ2112]

If you can't get an impact driver, a hammer, or large wrench will often suffice. If you have the pinch bolt loose, then the only thing holding the axle into the fork leg are the threads in the bottom of the leg opposite the allen head. The bolt is steel, the leg is aluminum. The most likely reason you are having so much trouble getting the axle to budge is due to corrosion on the threads as a result. The impact in a twisting motion shatters the crystals, are reduces the 'stiction'. It should only take a few sharp raps on the handle of your wrench, in the direction you are wanting to turn the bolt.

I'd guess it may cost you another cheap bolt, to break the axle free.... I too went with a reversed spark plug socket that has the 6 sided patter in the top of the socket. Stick an extension in there backwards, and presto, you have the correct sized allen,

When you do get this apart, make sure to clean the threads and apply some sort of moisture barrier to prevent it happening again.

 

[Motogiro]

You should take that piece of wood out from under your header so that the wheel is on the ground. At Home Depot they have hexagon stock use to connect threaded rod I believe it's for 1/2 inch threaded stock. The outside dimension will be 3/4" or 19mm. With the wheel now on the ground you'll have a better chance of applying pressure to loosen the axle. You should be able to use a 1/2" drive breaker bar or ratchet with a pipe on the handle as a cheater bar for added leverage.

That piece of log is a little iffy. Get a piece of 6x6. That rounded piece might slip on you....

 

[Kenward]

lefty loosey. it was hard for me too. i used a spark plug socket and a pipe wrench w a pvc pipe on the handle of the pipe wrench give you more leverage:thumbup:

Thanks, I'll check that out.

Make sure you bolts are strong, grade 8 if possible, not cheap hardware store kind. Use a cheater bar on a breaker bar with 6 sided socket, impact style if you can get it. I must need a drink with all this talk of bars?? Rich :rockon:

Tell me about it. I snapped 3, and didn't get it to budge. I'm gonna have to pick one of those up, it looks like. Haha, I started drinking after a while. I was frustrated.

If you can't get an impact driver, a hammer, or large wrench will often suffice. If you have the pinch bolt loose, then the only thing holding the axle into the fork leg are the threads in the bottom of the leg opposite the allen head. The bolt is steel, the leg is aluminum. The most likely reason you are having so much trouble getting the axle to budge is due to corrosion on the threads as a result. The impact in a twisting motion shatters the crystals, are reduces the 'stiction'. It should only take a few sharp raps on the handle of your wrench, in the direction you are wanting to turn the bolt.

I'd guess it may cost you another cheap bolt, to break the axle free.... I too went with a reversed spark plug socket that has the 6 sided patter in the top of the socket. Stick an extension in there backwards, and presto, you have the correct sized allen,

When you do get this apart, make sure to clean the threads and apply some sort of moisture barrier to prevent it happening again.

Yeah, I was looking to rent one, but home depot didn't have them. I tried the hammer and everything, but couldn't get it to move. I've gone through 3 bolts, so I think I'm gonna try the spark plug socket with an extension and breaker bar.

I'll definitely make sure to clean the threads up.

You should take that piece of wood out from under your header so that the wheel is on the ground. At Home Depot they have hexagon stock use to connect threaded rod I believe it's for 1/2 inch threaded stock. The outside dimension will be 3/4" or 19mm. With the wheel now on the ground you'll have a better chance of applying pressure to loosen the axle. You should be able to use a 1/2" drive breaker bar or ratchet with a pipe on the handle as a cheater bar for added leverage.

That piece of log is a little iffy. Get a piece of 6x6. That rounded piece might slip on you....

It was removed before I started working on the bike, and will only be there as support when the forks are off for a bit. No worries though, it's flat in the areas it contacts the jack and bike, and I shook the bike a little to make sure it was sturdy.

I'll have to check out the hexagon stock, though. This is getting a little ridiculous, so I might take a blowtorch to it if I get any more frustrated. haha

Thanks, everyone!

 

[greg]

can't you get a sump plug key, or axle bolt key, I got mine for about £6, they should sell then in auto shops

 

[Kenward]

I'm going to Sears to try to find one tonight after I get off work. I heard that the nuts and bolt tool worked, and by the time I figured out it wasn't happening everything was already closed. I just don't want to keep my bike in the living room for a while.

 

[FB400]

I was using the nut and bolt method but got tired of it after about 2 times. It works ok most of the time but I wanted a real tool to handle the job. For the $10 on ebay I paid I now have a 19mm allen socket. It only hurts having to wait for it to arrive in the mail. Much better, IMO, to have the right tool for the job.

As someone here already mentioned, grade 8 bolt is hardened steel and not likely to break under extreme torque. +1 on using a cheater bar.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I welded a 3/4 nut and bolt together with a flat washer in between. Fits nicely in the axle, then put a 3/4" box wrench on the end(keep it close to the axle). Make sure the tire is supported.

If you have a access to a welder, that'll work too..

 

[Kenward]

I was using the nut and bolt method but got tired of it after about 2 times. It works ok most of the time but I wanted a real tool to handle the job. For the $10 on ebay I paid I now have a 19mm allen socket. It only hurts having to wait for it to arrive in the mail. Much better, IMO, to have the right tool for the job.

As someone here already mentioned, grade 8 bolt is hardened steel and not likely to break under extreme torque. +1 on using a cheater bar.

Yeah, I'll be ordering one tomorrow. It'll be nice to be able to use a real breaker bar on it. I picked up the grade 8 bolt, and it did the trick. It bent slightly, but at least it didn't sheer off like the others. haha

I welded a 3/4 nut and bolt together with a flat washer in between. Fits nicely in the axle, then put a 3/4" box wrench on the end(keep it close to the axle). Make sure the tire is supported.

If you have a access to a welder, that'll work too..

Yeah, I was thinking about that, because I read that you did that. I just don't have access to a welder. Got it off though!!