Problem with starting the engine after bike assembling

[chunkygoat]

Off the bat it sounds like you either have a crimped fuel line, clogged injector, or blocked air intake. Twisting the throttle would only worsen it and dump more fuel while still suffocating the engine - or vice versa and run extremely lean and flood it.

I would check all your lines. Try lifting your tank and find the fuel lines and see if you can find a spot it was pinched at. The tank itself, resting on the lines, can do this if you aren't careful.

This definitely sounds like an air fuel ratio issue. If every cylinder is running, its safe to rule out spark plugs, clutch, transmission, etc.

So I would guess either fuel lines pinched, blocked air box, or maybe you've accidentally created a lot of back (or front) pressure unintentionally.

 

[Kenward]

Any news on resolution for your issue?

 

[FinalImpact]

I did that tonight. I had similar thoughts. But everything remains same.
And by the way, when I disconnect the fuel hose, the fuel starts leaking out from the tank (this wasn't so before disassembling). What could be the problem?
Thanks!

There is check valve just to stop that leak but some fuel will be lost. I suspect the valve has a small piece of debris in it making it drip when disconnected. I doubt its related to the bigger fault but its worthy of an inspection.

Also, try doing the experiment with the gas cap open. If the vent line is blocked, the pump will not be able to continue to supply fuel against the vacuum in the tank. Start the bike, wait for it to die, then open the cap. If you hear a whooshing sound, the vent is blocked.

^ This is good but unlikely in short period of time like this. Idling long enough to pull a vacuum which starves it of fuel? I think this could only be done at near WOT under a duration greater than 5+++ minutes or more.

-
At a glance it seems like its not getting fuel and low pressure to the fuel rail could cause this BUT to me it seems unlikely that it allows it to start but not raise the RPM at all. So, I'm not sold on this as I think it would miss like the dickens but still raise RPM slightly.


I'd opt for bad connection at the Air intake pressure sensor or TPS. However the ECM should go into fail safe mode and give an error if its opened or shorted. Does the dash work and are there any errors present?

If this isn't it, I would opt for pulling each of the engine related connectors apart and making sure none of the pins have been bent, pushed out or broken off.

Because you have fresh paint, are any of the chassis grounds atop this fresh paint? It could be that you've lost a vital ground(s) at some point as a connector/connectors are not grounded properly. This includes where the engine joins the frame with the large mounting bolts.


Lastly; The way in which the coils are fed energy they take a good deal of current at idle and usually drop as the dwell time decreases (RPMs go up) so i don't think its the coils but I'm just thinking out loud and all are just guesses mind you but . . .

Check the grounds first
Check the connectors next // pins out, bent, missing.

Do you have an Ohm meter?

 

[FinalImpact]

Oh - how long will it idle if you don't move the throttle. . .

How bright are the head lights? Does it look normal?

 

[Topbox]

I dont know if its similar to your bike or to all FZ6's but when i have mine its 05 not used for errrr 4years ish but i've had it for 2-3days now and the ignition electrical switch shall sometimes take a few seconds to start up, but it seems to take longer than my previous bike, any recommendations?

and good luck on sorting your engine out are the spark plugs fitted correctly?, no rust or signs of rust? usually spark plug are the most common mistake for these sort of problems......