Question on throttle body sync

[redoliander]

When checking at 4k do you just adjust the idle up then when done you put it back between 1100 and 1300?

 

[ccew]

When checking at 4k do you just adjust the idle up then when done you put it back between 1100 and 1300?

no. I believe you have to turn the throttle and hold it there as you adjust. or ask a buddy to assist. Might cost ya a beer.

 

[iviyth0s]

no. I believe you have to turn the throttle and hold it there as you adjust. or ask a buddy to assist. Might cost ya a beer.

I'll probably do the latter...it'd probably be a pain doing both yourself

 

[Carlos840]

I'll probably do the latter...it'd probably be a pain doing both yourself

Well since you don't need to adjust while maintaining at 4000 it is pretty easy to do yourself.
Just rev to 4000, maintain the revs a few seconds until things settle, see what needs adjusting, let go of the throttle, do the adjustments.
Rev back to 4000, see what happened, do it until all is good.

Shouldn't take more than 5 minutes on your own.

Since each cylinder influences the others try not to do multiple adjustments at the same time.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

When checking at 4k do you just adjust the idle up then when done you put it back between 1100 and 1300?

I don't think the adjuster screw will let it idle that high but even if it did, I would NOT do it... It only takes a 2-3 seconds to see what your Manometer is doing at 4k. Your adjusting to get a happy medium between idle and 4k..

My procedure in short:fan blowing on high in front of the header /fan. I'm sitting on a stool on the LEFT side of the bike, my Carbtune, hanging on the left grip. The handle bar turned to the right so I can reach the throttle. Check it at idle, adjust, hold a steady rev at 4k, take notice of the sync and adjust accordingly.. Repeat as necessary..

Just as a side note, so I can get it done as soon as possible, I have a "short cut note", taped to a stool next to me, noting #2, #3 and #4 cylnder adjusters on the block. I also have it noted which way to turn the screw to raise the vacuum.

Again, it doesn't take much adjustment but some patience. The "shortcut" just helps me so I can quickly look and adjust without getting mixed up, possibly turnng the adjuster the wrong way, etc..

Make sure you give a decent rev (6-8k) and let the engine settle down to see the final vacuum..

 

[iviyth0s]

I'll have to do reading up on this procedure (as well as compiling the necessary tools) next season when I'll likely do it.

 

[Ramarius]

It's really simple, there are a couple of sticky posts on it. One of them tells you how to build your own manometer for less than 20 dollars. That's really all you need. The first time it took me about 45 minutes to sync them, the second time it took 20. Very much worth doing.

 

[trepetti]

It's really simple, there are a couple of sticky posts on it. One of them tells you how to build your own manometer for less than 20 dollars. That's really all you need. The first time it took me about 45 minutes to sync them, the second time it took 20. Very much worth doing.

+1 on build your own manometer. I did it last year and it was cheap and accurate. I have loaned mine out so many times I forget who has it. No worries, I can build another.

 

[iviyth0s]

Thanks guys I'll remember that...or I'll come find you (trepetti) and borrow it

 

[redoliander]

I've got the levels about the same at idle but when I rev to 4000 #2 shoots way up. So should I adjust for the 4000 to be the same levels or at idle?
Idle

4000

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I've got the levels about the same at idle but when I rev to 4000 #2 shoots way up. So should I adjust for the 4000 to be the same levels or at idle?
Idle

4000

Looks like their ALL out at 4k RPM's.

I'd adjust them all at 4k RPMs and get them a whole lot closer. You should be able to get them at the same or very close to the levels you have at idle...

You should find with it adjusted at 4k, the idle levels SHOULD be good..

Do you have some sort of "constrictor" in your lines from the bike to the manometer?

 

[redoliander]

Yea I have restricters in line.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Good idea, MIG welder tip.

On my Carbtune, its SUPER SMALL, (one on each of the four hoses) maybe .015" so stick with the smallest you can (OR as long as its not jumping around).

Did you re-adjust it?


I didn't get dinner / lunch after any of my sync's????

 

[redoliander]

Tried syncing them again this morning. Same results Could my valves be out of spec and causing this? If I set them at 4000 then at idle #2 is really low. This can't b this hard!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Tried syncing them again this morning. Same results Could my valves be out of spec and causing this? If I set them at 4000 then at idle #2 is really low. This can't b this hard!

How many miles on the bike since the valves were checked? Yes, valves out of adjustment would cause variations...

Being a homemade manometer, I/we really don't know how "LOW" (should be within 10mm's) it is at idle...

 

[redoliander]

There's been a lot of miles. Not sure how many exactly but I'm sure is should check them. Guess I should look for the write up on how to do that.

 

[redoliander]

But even if the valves are out of adjustment, shouldn't I still be able to get the TB's synced close?

 

[DavesFZ]

Maybe one of the sync tubes is getting pinched inside the frame? I haven't had a problem getting and keeping sync at idle or 4000 rpm. Have you tried alternating which tubes are hooked up to each manometer tube to see if it is consistent?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

But even if the valves are out of adjustment, shouldn't I still be able to get the TB's synced close?

I believe the manual calls for a check/ adjustment(if necessary) at 25,000 miles. Most FZ6's, don't need the adjustment until much later. How many miles on the odometer?

As the engine racks up miles, the valves tend to tighten up (tighter clearances).

Once it gets to the point that the valve(s) DOESN'T close anymore, the vacuum (which your setting your TB's by) is nill. There is literally a vacuum leak in that cylinder- from a valve NOT CLOSING FULLY, thus that cylinder will NOT PULL as much VACUUM as the others.


In the photo's you've posted, I've never seen them that far off... I would think it would be running REAL crappy...

Many folks use their own homemade manometer with good results.

IMHO, something as sensative as syncing, I prefer a professional tool, that is designed and proven for the task. I know the tool is working correctly and EXACTLY how far off my #'s are to the MM...


BTW, did you adjust the screw (there's a spring around the screw) inbetween the right set and left set of throttle bodies? Its NOT supposed to be adjusted and simply sync's the throttle shafts (2) between the two separate actual throttle bodies.

 

[redoliander]

I thought the screw with the spring is the idle adjuster?