Rear flat tire, options?

[long101]

So at the end of last summer, I ended up getting a flat tire thanks to a metal object on a 4 month old tire. I've been very lazy, but would like to get my bike up and running ASAP for spring. So in my garage I have my bike, with a tire that is completely flat. I am not handy at all, the most I have done on my bike is change the oil, and that is even a challenge . The puncture is within the tread, so I am not sure if it can be patched for a ride to the shop? Other option is to remove the tire, and bring it in, but my skills concern me. Any other options I'm missing ?

 

[VEGASRIDER]

So at the end of last summer, I ended up getting a flat tire thanks to a metal object on a 4 month old tire. I've been very lazy, but would like to get my bike up and running ASAP for spring. So in my garage I have my bike, with a tire that is completely flat. I am not handy at all, the most I have done on my bike is change the oil, and that is even a challenge . The puncture is within the tread, so I am not sure if it can be patched for a ride to the shop? Other option is to remove the tire, and bring it in, but my skills concern me. Any other options I'm missing ?

Im the same way, not mechanically inclined and I recently had a small leak in the centre of my rear tire. I used slime, some liquid sealant that comes in a compressed canister, cost around $10. You insert it thru the valve stem, and it finds the leak and seals it automatically. you can google it.

 

[ShoopCE]

If you really want to avoid removing the wheel your best bet is to get a plug kit at a parts store. Plug the hole, let it cure (a couple of minutes?), then pump the tire up to pressure a day or so before you ride it anywhere to be certain it will hold.

But please consider removing the rear wheel. It's messy but not too technically challenging. You have all the tools you need in the toolkit. Though an extra 12 mm crescent would be useful for the tension adjusters. The main gotcha on the rear wheel is that you must remember to position the brake caliper holder correctly on reassembly - so the notch is in the groove and it can slide front/back, before you finish positioning the wheel and insert the axle. If you decide to try this, reply here and I will post a step by step process for how to remove and reinstall the wheel, secure and straight (well as straight as you started with).

Chris

OR - slaps forehead - you can use the can of Slime.

 

[payneib]

Remove the rear wheel. There is absolutely nothing to it.

You need: a 32mm spanner, two 12mm spanners, (the spanners or sockets to take the brake caliper off, I think they're 15mm and 13mm but would have to check for you. Will nip out later when my boy is in bed and check for you), and a rubber mallet.

The process is:
Losen off the chain adjusters (12mm spanners)
Take the brake caliper off by taking the mounting bolts out (two different sizes, I'll check in a minute)
Undo the axle nut (32mm spanner)
Push the wheel forward on the axle to move the chain out the way
Remove the axle (mine usually needs a tap with a rubber mallet to get it started)
Roll wheel out from swingarm
Put the brake caliper mount, non drive side (external) spacer, the long internal spacer, sprocket carrier and drive side (external) spacer back on the axle, with the axle through the swingarm for safe keeping.
Take the wheel and the (short internal) drive side spacer to the bike shop (you need the spacer for the wheel to go on the balancing machine)
They'll either patch or replace the tyre (my guys won't patch if it's outside the centre 50%)
Bring the wheel home, give the bearings a wipe with a rag, then smear some fresh grease in there.
Put the wheel back in by following the reverse of what you did to take it off.

The only remotely difficult part is getting the wheel back on with the brake caliper mount (which goes on the axle, and has a slot/tab arrangement on the swingarm for positioning). Honestly, just get stuck in. It's really simple. And saves a bucket of money on tyre changes, some garages charge a full hours labour for the privilege of taking the wheel of to fit a tyre!


Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

 

[bpchura]

Slime MIGHT work but if you want a real fix, you gotta see if you can use a plug patch. The slime stuff isnt as safe and secure as the plug and some shops will charge extra if you slime it and then have them change the tire. It makes for a messy job for them and like I said, it isnt as good as a plug.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If you really want to avoid removing the wheel your best bet is to get a plug kit at a parts store. Plug the hole, let it cure (a couple of minutes?), then pump the tire up to pressure a day or so before you ride it anywhere to be certain it will hold.

+1^^^^ for an easy fix. We used this on my friends FJR (almost new) rear tire with a plug.

I wanted to try the kit as he was waiting for a new tire. He ended up leaving that tire on the bike with the plug, (never leaked).

(The new tire came in and I got it with/when I bought my FZ from him)..


A more permanent fix and safer IMO (but considerably MORE involved) is a combo patch plug:

Patch and Plug Combo Lead-Wire 1/8 Inch

Once installed from the INSIDE of the tire, it acts as a plug and patch and CANNOT spit out...
The tire needs to come off the rim, patched, and re-installed...

 

[long101]

Im the same way, not mechanically inclined and I recently had a small leak in the centre of my rear tire. I used slime, some liquid sealant that comes in a compressed canister, cost around $10. You insert it thru the valve stem, and it finds the leak and seals it automatically. you can google it.

hmmm I got a bottle of slime, and couldn't get it to work for the life of me (shows you how mechanically inclined I am), however its in a plastic bottle. Maybe I need to find a compressed can.

 

[long101]

If you really want to avoid removing the wheel your best bet is to get a plug kit at a parts store. Plug the hole, let it cure (a couple of minutes?), then pump the tire up to pressure a day or so before you ride it anywhere to be certain it will hold.

But please consider removing the rear wheel. It's messy but not too technically challenging. You have all the tools you need in the toolkit. Though an extra 12 mm crescent would be useful for the tension adjusters. The main gotcha on the rear wheel is that you must remember to position the brake caliper holder correctly on reassembly - so the notch is in the groove and it can slide front/back, before you finish positioning the wheel and insert the axle. If you decide to try this, reply here and I will post a step by step process for how to remove and reinstall the wheel, secure and straight (well as straight as you started with).

Chris

OR - slaps forehead - you can use the can of Slime.

Will the plug work if the hole is within the tread? Might have to give this a try

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Will the plug work if the hole is within the tread? Might have to give this a try

Yes it will. You DON'T want to plug a side wall. Just snip off and excess sticking out.

(It wouldn't hurt to get it re-balanced after that to get the full mileage out of the tire down the road..)

If you access to a spare, old tire, you can practice on that one first
(which is what I did with the FJR but it worked great the first time and it stayed-permanently)

With no doubt, I'd plug it before I slimed it..

*When I combo plugged / patched my tire, it needed re-balancing (not a lot but it did throw it off a tad)

 

[Zack]

I bought tire plug kit in Wal Mart. Also I got miniature compressor with cigarette light plug. Together less than 25 bucks. I didn't need it yet and hope will never do.
Plug kit fits easily under the seat. Compressor in my rear bag. I think you could use same kind of setup and instead of compressor get yourself tire quick repair kit bottle. It suppose to patch your tire and importantly fill it up with air. In that case repair kit and bottle can fit below seat.

By the way, long time ago I installed cigarette lighter receptacle under seat. It is on piggy back wires, not permanently mounted.