Rear sprocket nut problem

[Cali rider]

I removed it and secured in a vise. More leverage and 0% chance of getting metal slivers/flakes into the inner wheel bearing.

I should also mention that the studs had some threading locking compound on the hub/stud Joint. Some studs turned out easily, but 1 of them wouldn't budge with the vicegrip. I had to reinstall a nut onto that stud, drill through both the nut and stud and push a #10 screw to act as a key. I was then able to remove that assembly. Finally I applied Loctite 242 (Blue) to the new studs on the portion that threaded back into the hub.

Hope this helps..

 

[wrightme43]

Thanks Cali,

My bad I assumed they were press in without verifying that. I apoligise.

 

[Cali rider]

Thanks Cali,

My bad I assumed they were press in without verifying that. I apoligise.

No, don't apologize, I wasn't trying to make any editorial comment of any kind!

My BOLD TYPE was just a warning in case the OP assumed they were press fit and was getting ready to remove them immediately.

 

[maverick1970]

Good news and bad news update time. Good news is that I was able to repair one of the original stripped studs with a tap & die set.... The bad news is that I can't get the other damage stud out. I've drilled through the nut and stud like Cali Rider has shown but can seem to find anything to use as a key, as everything I've used so far keep breaking off. Good thing for me I'm at work with time to kill. Thanks John for you useful information. It's definitely helping me stay positive, especially coming from someone who has actually done the work before.

 

[maverick1970]

Well I gave up on the previous method and went caveman style on the stud. Decide that since I'm buying a new stud, who cares what the old one looks like or how it comes out as long as I get it out. So I did something a bit unconventional and drilled a hole right down the middle of the bolt hoping that would help relieve some pressure. I didn't have any luck with the vice grips when trying to get the old/unusable stud off, so I improvised and used a pipe wrench. Remember I said caveman style hehe... Well it worked. Old stud is out and waiting on new studs to arrive so I can put them in and finally get this damn sprocket on.... GEEZZZ

 

[maverick1970]

Well I got my new studs on and got the new black 48 tooth Vortex sprocket and black 520 chain on. MOD complete :rockon:

 

[Burnspot]

Resurrecting an old thread, but it relates to what I'm doing on my rear hub. I'm replacing some of the studs and wondered what the best way is to get them reinstalled. Do you put two nuts (no snickering...) on the stud (one next to the other) so they'll stay in place and provide a spot for a wrench or is there another method that works better? I know they were super snug when pulling them out.

My bike's been out of action for many months now thanks to more pressing home projects, but finally it's getting back together. Once it's back on the road, I'm selling it to make way for a Feejer (thanks to the committee's...er..wife's decision).

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Resurrecting an old thread, but it relates to what I'm doing on my rear hub. I'm replacing some of the studs and wondered what the best way is to get them reinstalled. Do you put two nuts (no snickering...) on the stud (one next to the other) so they'll stay in place and provide a spot for a wrench or is there another method that works better? I know they were super snug when pulling them out.

My bike's been out of action for many months now thanks to more pressing home projects, but finally it's getting back together. Once it's back on the road, I'm selling it to make way for a Feejer (thanks to the committee's...er..wife's decision).

I'd lock two nuts together on the shaft tightly, add some locktite, then screw in tightly. Undo the the two nuts and your ready to go. I belive its an aluminum hub with steel bolts so I wouldn't go super tight.. The locktite is what's being a PIA to remove....

 

[Burnspot]

I'd lock two nuts together on the shaft tightly, add some locktite, then screw in tightly. Undo the the two nuts and your ready to go. I belive its an aluminum hub with steel bolts so I wouldn't go super tight.. The locktite is what's being a PIA to remove....

Thanks for that! Confirms my thought on the process. I don't plan to force them, but I do remember them being a shade short of going full depth (when looking from the backside of the hub).

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I would think they'd bottom out, just make sure you have enough threads sticking up for the sprocket and nut.

 

[Burnspot]

They do snug up as the center, non-threaded portion reaches the top of the hole. I imagine if one were to force the issue, they'd end up screwing up the hub threads with that center section of the stud as there is no "bottom" to the hub stud holes. Snugged up, each stud measured about 25mm from face of hub to top of stud.

For future reference purposes, note the sprocket studs have slightly different sizing on each end. IIRC, the dimpled stud-end is the sprocket side.:thumbup:

 

[stryken]

Help!! I broke off a stud and need to know where to get another. I over torqued the thing because I followed the books setting of 72 ft pounds. Wish I would have read this thread first, I knew it felt way to tight but... well you know! I just hope I can get the old one drilled out of the hub and the nut.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Help!! I broke off a stud and need to know where to get another. I over torqued the thing because I followed the books setting of 72 ft pounds. Wish I would have read this thread first, I knew it felt way to tight but... well you know! I just hope I can get the old one drilled out of the hub and the nut.

Drill and easy out! At least the threads are clean. 72 ft lbs has to be a typo in the manual for those 6 bolts. they use self locking nuts anyway..........