Remove front and rear wheel

[Koozi]

@trepetti - thanks for the response; it was the first thing that I did after I bought a set of 3 spark plug sockets but even after removing the rubber seal, I am unable to lock on the extension. The hole is round and the circumference touches all four sides of the square grove on the other side; hence, I am unable to get the extension rod past through it. I will try to post a pic for better clarity in a few mins.

My 5/8ths spark plug socket is also round before it is square--stopping the extension from going in far enough to be usable.

I used to put a 19mm open ended wrench on the part of the socket that goes in the axle with enough of the socket left to go into the axle still.

The hex end of the socket is not a lot longer than the wrench is wide, but it is enough to break the axle free and spin it out.

FWIW, I bought my 19mm allen wrench at Sears.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I did pickup a 1/2" bolt & nut from Lowes and a locknut since I do not have a welding machine. Hopefully it will work and I will post my progress here. Planning to remove both wheels for tire replacement and hopefully it will be uneventful since this will be my first time.

I'm afraid a locknut will likely just un-do itself.

With what you purchased, perhaps flattening/mushroom BFH, any of the sticking out bolt threads,(after assembly) so the nut can't come off, should work too, not as stable but should lock up.

If you had two regular nuts, tightened down, then locked to each other, using the INSIDE NUT to loosen the axle, may work. There's just a fair amount of torque on that axle vs two nuts locks together. A good tack weld would make it permanent.

Just maybe push it in a little deeper in the axle as needed.

 

[fz05rider]

I was able to find a friend who has a mig welder but decided to buy the hex driver from amazon for $10 to avoid all the hassle and have a good tool in my tool box

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003DZ0PJU/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1]GearWrench 80664 1/2-Inch Drive Hex Bit Socket 19mm - Amazon.com[/ame]

 

[fz05rider]

@Motogiro, thanks for the tip on the order to put the wheels back on but the question I have is should I take off the rear wheel first similar to the order they need to be put back on?

 

[fz05rider]

Make sure you loosen everything before you jack the bike up. The front axle has Allen head pinch bolts that need to be loosened before the axle can be turned out.

Same with the rear. Get every thing loose. You don't want to be torquing stuff with the bike in an unstable state.

Be careful and make sure when you re-install the wheels that you do the put the front wheel back on first. Don't tighten the front wheel just install the wheel and axle and then set the wheel back on the ground so that the bike is more stable when you install the rear wheel. A friend of mine was doing this and was installing the rear wheel first without the front wheel. The bike was unstable, spun on the center stand and fell on him. He was lucky and didn't get hurt. Then tighten the front and align your rear wheel while you set your chain slack.

thanks for the tip on the order to put the wheels back on but the question I have is should I take off the rear wheel first similar to the order they need to be put back on?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

thanks for the tip on the order to put the wheels back on but the question I have is should I take off the rear wheel first similar to the order they need to be put back on?

It really doesn't matter.

I think Cliff just wanted the bike as stable and loosely assembled as possible BEFORE you torque down the axles, etc, just for safety.

Both wheels off at the same makes the bike pretty un-stable..:thumbup:


I've found once the axles are loose, a sizzor jack, with a short 2x4 under the header, cranked up just enough to get the front wheel off the ground, works very well and is pretty stable..

 

[lawlberg]

FZ05Rider - Read my last post -

Some of the sockets are different from others. Most of the ones I looked at had the circular hole through which wouldn't work - the Duralast one is the only one that worked for me. You'll have to pull out the rubber piece in the store but if you look at it you'll be able to see the 1/4 inch drive or whatever it is that you can fit through it. I got mine at AutoZone - if you find the right one it's a lot easier than modifying the wrong one.

Also - with the effort that you've been through, there are tons of "axle tools" available from stores online or probably even your local bike shop.

 

[trepetti]

It is a shame that you can't use the dreaded Red locktite on the bolt to hold it. That stuff only makes life miserable when disassembling something. Shame we cannot use its powers for good instead of evil.

 

[fz05rider]

It is a shame that you can't use the dreaded Red locktite on the bolt to hold it. That stuff only makes life miserable when disassembling something. Shame we cannot use its powers for good instead of evil.

I will give that a try and if it works, I will return the hex driver back to amazon. Thanks !