Rpm . idle warm /hot

FinalImpact

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Wednesday I will get by post the gap tools from ebay and I will adjust the spark plugs to 0.7mm . I will let you know if is any change .
The bike run very well except 5000 5400 rpm .
If is the problem from the gap of the plugs , should not be vibrating at all Rpm ?

Here is video with full rpm progress , cold to warm engine .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S5eSHl82qcA


Spark usually fails to jump the intended gap when the engine is doing the most work. As in when the cylinder pressure is at its highest like 6th gear cruising along and hitting a hill. Until the hill is so great that the vacuum drops, the engines internal cylnder pressure is climbing. Events like this create tremendous load for the ignition system and if something is wrong, you may feel it as a vib. Thats not to say the drive train is not a factor as it may be....

So the question remains; did you check the plug gap and did you verify the caps were snug to the wires (cut any material off the wires).

That video makes it sound like it may have a valve on the loose side. Its the ticking sound.
 

FinalImpact

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So what all are we trying to solver here?

Varying RPM
A vibration (was it always there or is it new)
Temperature varies

Anything else?
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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So what all are we trying to solver here?

Varying RPM
A vibration (was it always there or is it new)
Temperature varies

Anything else?


He later returned a PM and is very busy working, however his main issue is just the vib's on the right foot peg.

And as previously posted above, he DID NOT check/adjust the Iridiums.

He's got the tool coming to check and adjust them and needs to PU a torque wrench for the engine mounts/sub-frame...
 

georgerdp

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So I checked up the spark plugs with two different tools.
678ci1.jpg


All plugs have gap size 0.7 mm. No more not less.

About the engine bolts . All 5 have been loose.

2iiil9j.jpg


Sorted out with this torque wrench at about 55 nm .

Vibes have been reduced a lot to be honest but
Not completly . Any other sugestions ? Do I have to tight up
the swing arm ? I need a special key for that ?

Are normal to be there some vibrations ?
I mean is a 600 engine on that frame ...

Cheers
 
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TownsendsFJR1300

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Damn, all 5?? Oh well, that's fixed.

With that said, you will get some fine vibs out of this engine. When I had my bad vibs it was at 4k RPMs, the TB sync got rid of most of them. In the higher RPM's, as previously noted, your pretty much past the sync doing anything. (My vibs was thru the seat and grips.)

Have you run a strong dose of Chevron Techtron or MUCH BETTER, Yamaha's Ringfree. The Ringfree cleans the entire fuel system and the top end as well. Running it on the heavy side won't hurt anything and can only help(but not your wallet). I'd be leaning towards a good additive, (I can't say enough about the Ringfree, seriously, it works that well).

You could have a dirty fuel injector making the engine run rough. The Ringfree may help it, BUT if too bad, the injectors may need to be pulled and cleaned. Randy has cleaned his own (without sending them out and will likely post a link) or do a search...

A good general going over the entire bike with a torque wrench would NOT hurt. ESPECIALLY the rear sub-frame to main frame bolts..

As you've seen, the many, fine vibs took its toll on the engne mounts. The swing arm should just have a nut on one side (doubt that loosened up) but again, torquing down every fastener can only help.


If you need a list of torque values for the entire bike, PM me with an E-mail address
 

fazil

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BUT if too bad, the injectors may need to be pulled and cleaned. Randy has cleaned his own (without sending them out and will likely post a link)

Is it a good idea to clean the injectors after 8-10 years of use ?
Any good affect on the engine?

A write up would be nice.
 

georgerdp

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Is it a good idea to clean the injectors after 8-10 years of use ?
Any good affect on the engine?

A write up would be nice.

But if are the injectors ... should not the engine performance to be bad as well ?
The bike is quick and responsive all the time , the only bad is vibes in foot pegs.
I had previously 2 sv 650 and before FZ6 .......Yamaha thundercat 600 1998 ( this is why I want another Yamaha ) and none of my previous bike had those vibes in foot pegs .
Is funny because before to tight up the engine bolts I had bad vibes in right foot.
Now are not that bad , but are in left and right about the same .( not all the time just avout 4500- 5200 rpm and less when engine is hot )
 
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fazil

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If funny because before to tight up the engine bolts I had bad vibes in right foot. Now are not that bad , but are in left and right about the same

If your bike has engine guards, that may be the cause for vibrations.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Is it a good idea to clean the injectors after 8-10 years of use ?
Any good affect on the engine?

A write up would be nice.

But if are the injectors ... should not the engine performance to be bad as well ?
The bike is quick and responsive all the time , the only bad is vibes in foot
Now are not that bad , but are in left and right about the same .( not all the time just avout 4500- 5200 rpm and less when engine is hot )

There are many factors that affect the fuel system. The addition of ethonol is one of the worst offenders and headaches. Attracts moisture into the fuel, not good..Moisture in the tank=rust. Water in fuel=crappy running..

Like tires, as they gradually wear, you don't notice them until their worn out/squared off. Then you put on a new set and holy cow, what a difference!!

A dirty fuel system, (varnish), carbon build up in the top end, all take their toll, OVER TIME...

Yes, if a large piece of crap gets past the filter and makes it to the actual fuel injector, it can clog it up, mess up a full, nice even spray pattern(crappy performance).

Running fuel injector cleaner in the FZ as the same as your 4 stroke FI (or carbed car). There are different products (I'm not familiar with the one posted above) but if allowed for a 4 stroke, use the appropriate amount/ tank and it should be fine. Techtron and Seafoam I'll use for different applications including the FZ. Both work, however, the RingFree, IME in my boat (60 gallon built in tank) and other small machines works much better (and much more expensive (you get what you pay for)..


IE, about 2 months ago, I was running an 8 HP chipper /shredder (3,600 RPM's) after trimming a bunch of tree's. When I started the engine, first pull BTW, it cranked but wouldn't idle down without partial choke. It also had a slight misfire at WOT. I added some Seafoam to the tank (engine still WOT) no change as I "chipped" away. Added some Techtron, still WOT (still chipping away), NO change. Ok, once I'm done, looks like a carb clean... Let me try some of the "good stuff", the "Ringfree". The engine never stopped from WOT xduring this entire time frame(about an hour and a half). Put the Ringfree in, on the very heavy side. Kept chipping. Eventually, the misfire stopped at WOT. Humm, lets see about idle. Adjust the throttle down, idled down as it should, smooth, (no partial choke, crank right up to WOT, No misfire. (This is a simple, single cylinder, air cooled, carbed engine).

I did absolutly nothing else but add fuel additives and it cleaned the carb to where it did not need cleaning (back to normal).


BTW, I work on mowers, weedeaters (2 and 4 strokes), generators, etc, just about any gas engine. 90% of most issue's are clogged up jets in the carb (varnish) from no fuel stabilizer/sitting, in as short as a a month...

Look at those small yellow or clear fuel lines on your weedeater/chain saw, etc. You'll notice over time, they harden up and eventually fail. If you keep fuel in the tank, the lines are considerably WORSE in the tank, than outside. I've plucked the filter and what left of the fuel line from the inside of the tank(R&R all fuel lines with some up to 15% ethonol resistant line). leaving the tank dry and running the engne dry definitly helps extend the life of the lines. I also keep a good Marine (Gas Shok" or K-100) stabilizer in the fuel (for the little bit of fuel that remains even run dry)

My 9 year old Snapper mower has NEVER had the carb apart (except for a jet change-too rich from the factory)

In short, IME, a fuel system cleaner in any 2 or 4 stroke engine is about a necessity and may very well save you from tearing your carb apart for a cleaning. If it keeps me from pulling the fuel system, injector out for a cleaning, chasing as issue with crappy running, its well worth it..

BTW, Randy (FinalImpact, did do a thread about cleaning them, applying power to them to activate, etc). I'm sure he'll link it here.

I've never had to pull my injectors, bike runs like a top, 46-48 MPG (US gallons) around town..
 
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FinalImpact

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But if are the injectors ... should not the engine performance to be bad as well ?
The bike is quick and responsive all the time , the only bad is vibes in foot pegs.
I had previously 2 sv 650 and before FZ6 .......Yamaha thundercat 600 1998 ( this is why I want another Yamaha ) and none of my previous bike had those vibes in foot pegs .
Is funny because before to tight up the engine bolts I had bad vibes in right foot.
Now are not that bad , but are in left and right about the same .( not all the time just avout 4500- 5200 rpm and less when engine is hot )


So lets recap -
Complaint is vibes at 5k, so the basic cruise rpm. What is the condition of your chain and what lube is on it?

This is you lucky day! I recently tried a new product thats not a spray lube. Its in a squeeze bottle.
Oh god did it make a mess but it took away another level of vibes i thought were part of the bikes DNA. This stuff is magic in a bottle. Sadly i cant report how long it lasts as i havent cleared the 400 mile mark where the others fail, but if you want to take away another level of vibes, try it and see! My bike is near vibration free! Im impressed!

attachment.php


Yep, Biggest mess short of Maxima Chain lube that flew everwhere! Yes, over application!
attachment.php
 

georgerdp

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I use Castrol manual transmission oil ep 80w-90 for chain .
At 3 days or after a ride in rain .
The chain is in very good condition and I inspected the sprockets , are like new .

On my last full tank I added that red stuff REDEX and is like viagra for the engine .
Minimal vibration this morning ( in 50 miles) I am happy now ...... more or less .
I will go for MOT (The Ministry of Transport test) on 18 and I will ask that guy to have a look
to see what he says regarding my bike .
 
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TownsendsFJR1300

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I use Castrol manual transmission oil ep 80w-90 for chain .
At 3 days or after a ride in rain .
The chain is in very good condition and I inspected the sprockets , are like new .

On my last full tank I added that red stuff REDEX and is like viagra for the engine .
Minimal vibration this morning ( in 50 miles) I am happy now ...... more or less .
I will go for MOT (The Ministry of Transport test) on 18 and I will ask that guy to have a look
to see what he says regarding my bike .

Good to hear!

Run it a bit more, it generally takes some time to get it all nice and clean, can only get better...

BTW, what's The Ministry of Transport test, a motor vehicle inspection, bike shop or driver license office?
 

georgerdp

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Good to hear!

Run it a bit more, it generally takes some time to get it all nice and clean, can only get better...

BTW, what's The Ministry of Transport test, a motor vehicle inspection, bike shop or driver license office?

The Ministry of Transport test (usually abbreviated to MOT test) is an annual test of vehicle safety, roadworthiness aspects and exhaust emissions required in Great Britain for most vehicles over three years old used on any way defined as a road in the Road Traffic Act 1988; it does not apply only to highways (or in Scotland a relevant road) but includes other places available for public use which are not highways.[1

The name derives from the Ministry of Transport,[5] a defunct government department which was one of several ancestors of the current Department for Transport, but is still officially used. The MOT test certificates are currently issued in Great Britain under the auspices of the Driver and Vehicle Standards Agency (DVSA), an agency of the Department for Transport. Certificates in Northern Ireland are issued by the Driver and Vehicle Agency (DVA). The test and the pass certificate are often referred to simply as the "MOT".

Some 20,100[6] local car repair garages throughout Great Britain, employing some 53,000 testers[6] are authorised to perform testing and to issue certificates.
 

georgerdp

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Good to hear!

Run it a bit more, it generally takes some time to get it all nice and clean, can only get better...

BTW, what's The Ministry of Transport test, a motor vehicle inspection, bike shop or driver license office?

Smooth like silk after few tanks with that red stuff . Redex (not vibes at all on the road any rpm )
I reckon my problem was that blocked injector .
.....I love the bike now more then ever .
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Smooth like silk after few tanks with that red stuff . Redex (not vibes at all on the road any rpm )
I reckon my problem was that blocked injector .
.....I love the bike now more then ever .

Excellent... I know the feeling when I had that vibe in my seat...


Glad you posted, alot of folks think all of these products are "snake oil". Some probably are, some work extremly well (as proven above!).



Just as a side note, I ususally get around 48MPG (US) around town. After a heavy dose of RingFree, and running on untreated fuel, its jumped to an all time high or 53MPG (US) or so, (no highway, beating around town, couple of high RPM runs too)
 
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