Run switch faulty

TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6
Site Supporter
I wasn't going to leave a hole lol, I was thinking that I might have to remove the actual switch and possibly make a blank for the hole.

Neil
With all the bikes being parted out, I'd hot wire it for now, and look for a used switch if you like having/using it.. Just a thought :thumbup:
 

Nelly

International Liaison
Super Moderator
Elite Member
I've contacted a few people already. One has sold the switch already. Waiting to here on the other one.
Anyways, woke this morning to find a fine spring day. No snow :):thumbup:
So after dropping the children to school I went at it.
Last night I doused the switch in WD40 and first checked to see if it made any difference. Sadly not, I could audibly hear the switch cutting out under the seat when in the "Run" position.

So I took the only action available and decided to bypass the switch. I used the soldering iron to completely disconnect the switch from the wires.


Once removed I then soldered them together, I wasn't sure if it should be done as I have done it, in line. Or soldered side by side which would have been easier.
I tuned the ignition on and gave the wire a good wiggle to see if the engine cut out. All working as it should be apart from the now impotent run switch idly sitting there where it should be.


Next I covered the contacts with some electrical tape. I've tried to get shrink wrap locally a few times but failed miserably. The electrical tape was stored outside and was very difficult to stretch and wind around the connection.
I used the heat of the soldering iron to seal the edges.


Then reinstalled the switch housing which is held on with three screws all are different lengths. If the incorrect screw is inserted in to the under bar hole its possible that you can strip the threads and end up with the switch moving as you twist the throttle.


When I dismantled the switch I put the screws back in to the base to ensure that I didn't mix the screws up.


Every thing all tightened down and the bike running as it should.


Thanks for the help people. Anything electrical is equivalent to neuro surgery in my eyes. It definitely helps to have the wisdom of others to call on.

Neil:thumbup:

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2
 

TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6
Site Supporter
Great job!! Great pic's too!

One less thing to break/fail Neil!!


Just as a side note re the kickstand switch.

It uses the same switch as the 04 FJR. I've had them both apart (no issues, just maintainance). It comes apart easily, (I left it connected to the bike and worked on a short stool next to the bike) with only a few parts inside. Cleaned it up, put in water proof marine grease, good to go...

Don't ask how many parts, as I forgot, its been about 2 years but nothing to shoot out across the garage... :)
 
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Ruggybuggy

Member
One thing to consider. I'm an auto technician and do motorcycle safety check (required in Ontario) and a modification that makes the emergency shut off switch inoperable will fail on the safety inspection and would prevent the owner from registering/renewing his/her registration. Not sure what requirement are needed in other states/provinces.
 

aid-90

Junior Member
Just after by passing the kill switch, the switch assembly was a pain to put back together!
But thankfully the cutting out problem is solved :D
 

FinalImpact

2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone
Super Moderator
Site Supporter
I think the failure rate has to do with how the engine kill switch kills the motor. The ignition, clutch switch, neutral switch, and side stand switch are just logic switches. They run off 5-12vdc and almost no current, and basically just tell the ECU not to send spark triggers to the coils. But the coils are still connected to the battery, so theoretically the engine could still run.

So, IIRC, the kill engine switch physically disconnects the coils from the battery/starter from the battery/fuel pump from the battery. So it has to handle far more current. That current increases rust rate, and also could cause excessive sparking which would also wear out the contacts faster.

So it was probably a design issue. The engineers probably felt it was an "emergency" switch and the kickstand/ignition would be used most often to kill the engine.
I just use the key. Personally I would not use the kick stand as a "kill switch" even though it is low current. Obviously the "Engine Stop Switch" powered via that 10A Ignition Fuse isn't up to the task either so use the Ignition Switch which MUST BE TURNED ANYWAY! Not that it has 10A through the stop switch but it is subject to higher voltage than 12 volts as its attached to the ignition coils.
12V DC doesn't tend to excite growth and corrosion but its really more than 12 volts as there is ring back from the coil packs field collapsing and this "induced voltage" ups the wear and tear of our beloved stop switch. It's likely why the switch corrodes and fails as it does. Well that and its pretty weak design.
 

shamrocker

Junior Member
I used to use the kill switch each time, but after reading some threads on this forum, I decided it was better to use the ignition switch or kickstand switch to save wear and tear on the handlebar kill switch. I had no idea how difficult it would be to retrain myself. Every time I stopped the bike, I flipped the handlebar switch out of habit. *DANGIT* Even after reminding myself beforehand. :shakehead:
 

Nelly

International Liaison
Super Moderator
Elite Member
Re: Re: Run switch faulty

One thing to consider. I'm an auto technician and do motorcycle safety check (required in Ontario) and a modification that makes the emergency shut off switch inoperable will fail on the safety inspection and would prevent the owner from registering/renewing his/her registration. Not sure what requirement are needed in other states/provinces.
Its currently not an issue here as safety testing NCT, MOT etc are not currently required for bikes. I'm sure it will come down the line at some point.

Neil

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2
 

AdamFZ

Junior Member
So my run switch (kill switch) has really started playing up. Even if i tapped it, the engine would cut off. I had to hold the button down while running but now I've managed to fix it without soldiering a bypass.

You CAN take it apart and clean it. Pics are below. You can see how dirty and worn it is so i cleaned it with some fine grit sandpaper and a needle file. Also, i stretched the spring behind the copper plate to push it harder in to the conductive pad bits. Haven't had a run test yet but all tests so far show it to be working as expected and no intermittent cut outs !









 

Motogiro

Vrrroooooom!
Super Moderator
Moderator
Elite Member
Site Supporter
So my run switch (kill switch) has really started playing up. Even if i tapped it, the engine would cut off. I had to hold the button down while running but now I've managed to fix it without soldiering a bypass.

You CAN take it apart and clean it. Pics are below. You can see how dirty and worn it is so i cleaned it with some fine grit sandpaper and a needle file. Also, i stretched the spring behind the copper plate to push it harder in to the conductive pad bits. Haven't had a run test yet but all tests so far show it to be working as expected and no intermittent cut outs !
Great job and thank you for the pictures!
 
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FinalImpact

2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone
Super Moderator
Site Supporter
So my run switch (kill switch) has really started playing up. Even if i tapped it, the engine would cut off. I had to hold the button down while running but now I've managed to fix it without soldiering a bypass.

You CAN take it apart and clean it. Pics are below. You can see how dirty and worn it is so i cleaned it with some fine grit sandpaper and a needle file. Also, i stretched the spring behind the copper plate to push it harder in to the conductive pad bits. Haven't had a run test yet but all tests so far show it to be working as expected and no intermittent cut outs !
I'd guess using a small pick or screwdriver, spread the ends (white) away from the black and it pops out?

GOOD JOB Adam!
So what grease did you assemble it with?
 

AdamFZ

Junior Member
Yes, just a little flat head screw drive to pop the black bit out of the white bit.

:eyebrow: I actually forgot to pop some grease in there. Got a little distracted by some meddling kids ripping my gutter downpipe off !! :mad::spank:
 
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