Spring and oil change w/ adjustable rebound fork caps

[FinalImpact]

^^ even though you're in the flat lands and seldom bury the nose in, the added comfort and security of the nose staying put under braking is something else. In one of my tests I did after the install I had the front end at slow roll with smoke coming off the tire and never would have believed how controlled the stop was. On the OEM forks, doing that would not be comfy as it'd feel like we're going over the bars when the nose dips to full compression.

But ya, you'd have to chop the spacer as these are obviously longer and left is OEM cap, Joe's adjustable, and R6 on the right.

 

[FinalImpact]

HEY, where's your .02 for using my pic....royalties man! :BLAA:

Scott, do the fork swap! I tried the adjustable pre-load caps, RT springs, and 15wt oil....R6 forks are WAAAAAAY better!

Checks in the mail! lol :BLAA: prolly cost us another buck for use of your Thread too!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I bought a set of stock fork caps from a member (should be delivered this week).

I originally wanted just one to install a Shrader (threaded tube tire) valve in it. I plan on drilling the center of it on the lathe, then expoxy/and nut on each side (inside and outside the cap). I wanted it just for blowing out fork seals (when the oil seal leaks).

It's a common practice with the KLR's, a bit over100 PSI, (once the retainer is out) will pop the seals right out. (no dissassembly of the fork itself required).

Anyway, I'll likely do the same to the other new cap and put thm on the bike. Anyone thats ridden dirt bikes in the old days are familiar with air over spring suspension. Bump the PSI a little, you now have a progessive rate. Easily adjustable sag, etc..

Any old timers remember?

 

[FinalImpact]

^^ Oh ya.. .. ..
Hopefully the increased pressure doesn't make er leak and run down her legs! :spank:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

^^ Oh ya.. .. ..
Hopefully the increased pressure doesn't make er leak and run down her legs! :spank:

They didn't leak on the older YZ's (125's and 250, two strokes) with 8"+ of travel, that's in hard motocross, off road racing conditions (AMA sanctioned MX racing in Bridgehampton, LI)..

As a baseline, my old KLR's recommended 0 PSI for street riding, so adding no more than 3-5 PSI should make a difference.. I need to pick up another shrader valve nut at the shop before I can machine, epoxy and assemble.

As noted above, using the factory shrader valve for the KLR fork seal removal was common. Once the retainer was removed, 100 plus PSI would literally BLOW the seal out of the lower fork. You do have to wrap a rag around the area to keep from wearing fork oil in the procedure.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Got the fork caps a couple of days ago. Put them on the lathe, and machined out the center hole.

Both nuts are "red loctited" on with hardening sealer on the threads and under the lower (inside nut).

 

[motojoe122]

Very nice!

 

[FinalImpact]

Re: Spring and oil change w/ adjustable AIIIIIIIR CAPS!!!!

The Pressure's on Man!

Report!