Stalling/Won't Start Issue!

[ajporlier]

Hey, I just bought a 2006 FZ6 with 12,000 miles on it. However, after about a week of riding it I semi-frequently stall as I'm stopping at a light or a traffic signal. From reading around this would seem to be a TPS issue. But the bike also sometimes has a problem starting up, the starter will crank but the engine won't turn and a check engine light will come on. But if I shut off the switch and try again, it will usually work fine without any check engine light. I used the gauge cluster to find out that the battery is putting out just under 12 V before the engine is running, which I'm wondering might be part of the problem too. Any help?

Thank you!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Welcome to the forum!

Your bike doesn't have a re-call for the TPS (but of course it could still fail).


Couple things to check initially;

Whats you idle set at (at operating temp)? It should be around 1,300 RPM's.


When you turn on the ignition, do you hear the fuel pump inside the fuel tank come on for approx 2 seconds or so??

Second, raise the fuel tank(not too far or you'll be pulling the pump and fuel level plugs out-check those too).
With the tank up, put a volt meter across the battery terminals. You should see approx 12.8 plus volts just sitting, not running.

Start the bike and watch the voltage. If its charging, you'll see the voltage rise close to 14 volts (see attached link). 5,000 RPM's is max RPM for max charging.
If it stays at 12.8 or drops, you have likely have charging issues.

Also, if the cranking voltage drops below 10 or so, get the battery LOAD TESTED. Walmart, most auto parts stores will check it for free. If the battery is toast, won't hold a load, it'll cause issues as the bike / engine needs a good battery to run when an electrical load, lower voltage output (idle), is put on it...


Here's a short video of my 07, cold start up showing voltages from cold, cranking, running, various RPM's;

https://www.flickr.com/photos/127092600@N08/


Please post back

 

[FinalImpact]

Maybe it's a difference in definition but you stated "the starter will crank, but the engine won't turn"... Are you saying the starters electric motor JUST SPINS or do you really mean the engine cranks over but fails to start?

The first statment leads us in a new direction while the other indicates its not getting fuel, spark, or simply cranks to slow (starter doesnt spin engine fast enough) to start the engine...
Does that make sense?
Idle speed and vacuum leaks come to mind...

 

[ajporlier]

Idle speed is right at 1300, fuel pump does come on, had the voltage tested and it came in at 12.65 V.

I meant the second one, it cranks over but fails to start.

Another issue I'm having, is when I downshift to first gear from second there is a grinding or clunking noise that happens. Sometimes I'm scared to shift the another issue I'm having, is when I downshift to first gear from second there is a grinding or clunking noise that happens. Sometimes I'm scared to shift all the way through. This is more common coming out of higher speeds. Any ideas?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Another issue I'm having, is when I downshift to first gear from second there is a grinding or clunking noise that happens. Sometimes I'm scared to shift the another issue I'm having, is when I downshift to first gear from second there is a grinding or clunking noise that happens. Sometimes I'm scared to shift all the way through. This is more common coming out of higher speeds. Any ideas?

It sounds like your DOWNSHIFTING all at once while at speed... DO NOT do this, its very hard on the transmission and will happen to ALL FZ's as its not designed to do this.

Simply down shift ONE CLICK at a time as your speed decreases. For me, normal riding, its roughly 3-4,000 RPM's.


For instance, say your doing 35 MPH, NO way should you be downshifting to FIRST GEAR (even with the clutch lever in) at that speed, probably second gear, for me, probably 3rd, then lower as you decelerate. Speed and gearbox selection go hand in hand.

**And lastly, make sure your clutch cable is lubed and adjusted correctly. The cable, if gooed up / sticking, doesn't help up or downshifting.


Is the bike running now (that you posted about downshifting)?

 

[payneib]

Stay out of first at speed. You can pretty much move around anywhere between 2nd and 6th, being mindful of over rev- I regularly double downshift from 6 to 4 for engine brake, then 4th to 2nd for acceleration. But dropping in to first anything over ~15-20mph is nasty on the box.

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

 

[FinalImpact]

My read was slow lazy shifts... Shift quickly once the clutch is in!
DO: When downshifting, clutch in, Rev match throttle blip, shift, clutch out (timeline is fractions of a second)... When wet out, REV match is critical to NOT locking rear tire!
Don't: pull the clutch in and coast (let seconds go by) AND downshift as the engine vs final drive speed is so different it produces a ratchet like banging especially if you just ease down on the shifter vs quickly and meaningfully moving it!

Shift it like you mean it. Not stomping but a nice firm quick action. The sooner this occurs in relationship to the clutch being disengaged, the better...

Give this mp3 a listen taking into account the time between shifts and how short of time the clutch is disengaged. It may give some insight... Also, when coming down from say 65mph in open space your can pretty much keep the RPM at 4k and shift down repeatedly until you reach 1st gear...

MP3 Audio from Soundcloud - FZ6 ride along

Longer and lots more corners & shifting....

 

[ajporlier]

Thank you all for the help! That all makes a lot of sense, and is a relief that it's just me and not the bike. Ha
The stalling hasn't been occurring lately: upon reinstalling the battery I noticed that the negative terminal didn't have a nut on the bottom side for the bolt to screw in to. Do beforehand the connection was just floating on the negative terminal.

However, I'm having this issue come up: occasionally it still won't start/comes up with a check engine light. But if I move the bike around a bit (rolling backward/forward) the light will turn off and will start no problem. Looked up the engine code and its "42 - NO NORMAL SIGNAL RECEIVED FROM SPEED SENSOR & OR NEUTRAL SWITCH OPEN/SHORTED"...

 

[payneib]

Having not read the rest of the thread, I'd suggest having a good clean around the front sprocket. Your speed sensor and neutral switch are in that general area and may be having a hard time if they're gummed up. Get a tub of paraffin and a pile of rags and get all the chain goo out of there, then you'll probably be able to see if the wiring down there has any issues.

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

However, I'm having this issue come up: occasionally it still won't start/comes up with a check engine light. But if I move the bike around a bit (rolling backward/forward) the light will turn off and will start no problem. Looked up the engine code and its "42 - NO NORMAL SIGNAL RECEIVED FROM SPEED SENSOR & OR NEUTRAL SWITCH OPEN/SHORTED"...

The neutral safety switch is located on the back of the engine, toward the right side, part #7;
Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2006 FZ-6 - FZS6V ELECTRICAL 1 Diagram

Its tight but accessible from the rear/right side. Check your connections (both plug connector and where the wire bolts to to the actual sensor). connections.

 

[ajporlier]

Still having trouble finding it, anybody have a picture?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Still having trouble finding it, anybody have a picture?

The yellowish pointer is literally on top of it. Pic taken facing forward, just above the rear brake line.
The big vertical pipe is the rear Cat.
Below the switch (a couple of inches) is the front of the swing arm

 

[ajporlier]

Still having issues, anyone have a picture to help me locate it?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Still having issues, anyone have a picture to help me locate it?

Did you look above this post?? There's a BIG PICTURE THERE ^^^^^^

 

[ajporlier]

All right neutral safety switch is replaced, which is awesome. Was running last weekend well. Now there is a check engine light, it won't start up and the engine malfunction code reads 00. Battery just died. Is that it?

 

[Motogiro]

All right neutral safety switch is replaced, which is awesome. Was running last weekend well. Now there is a check engine light, it won't start up and the engine malfunction code reads 00. Battery just died. Is that it?

You'll have to test the battery to see if it's the problem. Do not jump start the bike from a car that has it's engine running or you may burn you regulator/rectifier. Charge the battery fully and have it load tested. If it passes the load test then test the charging system.