Stuck Throttle, not cables or grip.

[Chaosratt]

'07 FZ6

I know what you're thinking, yet another stuck throttle thread. Just lube the cables!

I've dissembled the grip & cable housing, everything's moving freely there (well, the grip needs some TLC, 10 years of being an "outside bike", but it still turns freely with the cables disconnected).

Disconnected the cables at the other end and found I can push pull them freely.
On that note, who the F*CK decided to put the "thing" the cables connect to right behind the f*cking frame? pita to get those on and off.


Narrowed down the issue to the throttle body itself, as I was unable to actuate the throttle by hand. After liberal application of some lubricant to the visible springs on the throttle and it will now turn, but its incredibly stiff and does not return entirely on its own.

I consider my self "mechanically inclined", but I suspect I'm just like those users who walk into IT/BestBuy and think they know what their doing because they can check email.
I can change oil and sparkplugs, and follow guides but frankly if it doesn't have electrons flowing it it, I'm not really sure how to troubleshoot it.

I've googled around a bit, but "stuck throttle" on an Fz6 always seems to be solved lubing or replacing the cables, or cleaning the grip/bar. I don't think that's going to help me here.



I bow down to my mechanical overlords, help me. What do I do next?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Couple questions,

How long have you had the bike? Has it sat for some length of time?

This is a new issue or started AFTER some sort of maintenance?

To confirm, The TB's are disconnected and are still hard to open /close the throttle?

Here's the parts fisch for the TB's: Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2007 FZ6 - FZS6W INTAKE 2 Diagram

There's two, "TWO barrel" throttle bodies with a link in between the two that's adjustable(should not generally be touched).

I'd first look at all mounting screws/bolts and make sure everything is lined up... Rare but does happen, especially if NOT used, the TB shaft(s) can seize up with the aluminum TB itself. Spraying a good penetrate and working it usually takes care of it.

You've already seen the return spring on the port side of the throttle shaft(where the cables connect). That spring CAN be un-wound a full turn or two (or more) and you won't get a solid return (easier to pull throttle thou). If that spring was dinked with, that would help cause the hard to return issue.

But, of course, you should be able to open / close the throttle without binding (which is what yours sounds like). There is a trick to putting another "wind" in the spring of need be, I can post that later if need be..

Start looking for any binding/ loose parts, etc. Spray more lube as necessary especially where the shaft enters/exits the TBs..

 

[FinalImpact]

Did you pull the cover off the airbox and look from the top? Rodents have been known to chew through the filter element and pack stuff in...

Lift the tank and pull the cover. There should be nothing in the TB venturi's...

Also because this has pull style return cable, if when assembled there is NO slack, in the return cable it will bind at the grip. Make sure the cables have some slack once you get this sorted....

 

[Chaosratt]

Couple questions,

How long have you had the bike? Has it sat for some length of time?

This is a new issue or started AFTER some sort of maintenance?

To confirm, The TB's are disconnected and are still hard to open /close the throttle?

Here's the parts fisch for the TB's: Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2007 FZ6 - FZS6W INTAKE 2 Diagram

There's two, "TWO barrel" throttle bodies with a link in between the two that's adjustable(should not generally be touched).

I'd first look at all mounting screws/bolts and make sure everything is lined up... Rare but does happen, especially if NOT used, the TB shaft(s) can seize up with the aluminum TB itself. Spraying a good penetrate and working it usually takes care of it.

You've already seen the return spring on the port side of the throttle shaft(where the cables connect). That spring CAN be un-wound a full turn or two (or more) and you won't get a solid return (easier to pull throttle thou). If that spring was dinked with, that would help cause the hard to return issue.

But, of course, you should be able to open / close the throttle without binding (which is what yours sounds like). There is a trick to putting another "wind" in the spring of need be, I can post that later if need be..

Start looking for any binding/ loose parts, etc. Spray more lube as necessary especially where the shaft enters/exits the TBs..

Coming back to this after a long time. Yes, she's been sitting the whole time.

Had the bike since new, ~20k miles.
Recent maintenance: Had new chain and sprockets installed by dealer, who also noted leaking oil from the forks (sigh) and replaced the seals there.

I've torn it down to how it looks in FinalImpact's pics, its *much* dirtier, but otherwise I see nothing that would indicate an alignment issue. And yes, I sealed the tubes with plastic and tape the whole time. There appears to be no obstruction with them.

No 'dinking' with the return spring, just the cable attachment points, after which I found the cables to be a bit rough but not the source of the stiffness in the throttle. Is it safe to try to lubricate the points inside the tubes with anything?

I've drowned the 4 outer points of the throttles in wd40 and it moves now (vs being completely stuck in my original post) but it's *very* stiff and does not entirely return on its own.

Do you have any recommendations on a better "penetrating" oil? I'll also do a proper clean/lube of the cables as well. It's been an outside bike its entire life, and maybe everything individually has just gotten a little stiff and together thats what makes it feel stuck like it is.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

WD40 is NOT A LUBE. Won't hurt but WON'T work as well either..

Pick up some PB Blaster,Liquid Wrench, CRC, etc,

If you've narrowed it down to the TB's (there's TWO), it's possible the butterfly shaft(s), are somewhat seized up inside the TB's.
Sitting for awhile, lack of use, harsh weather, dissimilar metals, all can contribute.

You may want to check and make sure your not mising any parts or have a major mis-alignment between the TB's

I've come across this on several generators, etc (from sitting).

Spray into the TB's where the shaft both enters and exits... Keep working it open and closed.


If the bike is ridden regularly (even thou an "outside bike") it's kinda unusual for the TB shaft to seize up as such.

 

[Chaosratt]

Rode it daily for years when I had a POS car (or even no car). Better job, new car, kinda out of the "sport bike" thing = sat for a long time, sucks not being 21 anymore.

I'll head out and see if I can find any of those oils you mention and then give it another try.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Ok, sitting for a long time, dissimilar metals tend to seize together... Wish that was posted way earlier..

The penetrating oil / some patience will solve the issue...

And make sure you have some play in the "return cable" or it'll bind up on you...

Plz post back when it's up and running correctly...

..

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Any updates??

 

[Chaosratt]

Sorry, just got to it this weekend.

It worked! I picked up some penetrating oil for about $3 from auto-zone and gave it a small squirt on the outside of the TBs where the axle for the butterflys go through, let it sit for about a min then tried it, no change. Next I pulled my tape/plastic covers off the stacks and gave the smallest squirt I could (it was an aerosol can, without the little red tube helper) let it sit for a moment then tried the throttle again, instant difference. With some applied to the handle as well the throttle *snaps* back like its supposed to. Not as well as new, but not bad at all for a 10 year old outside bike with 22k miles!

Thank you for your help, I never would have thought to try a penetrating oil, I was assuming there was some mechanical fault.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Shoot some cable lube down both cables and it'll be as new!!

Congrates on the fix!!

 

[mgdaubo]

My solution to lubricate the cables:
- Remove the cables from handlebar grip.
- Find 2 small plastic bags. Make a small hole on bottom of the bag to put the cable through, stick the bag with the cable by some tape or elastic wire, leave the opening of the bag up, so that you have a small funnel attach to the cable.
- Pour oil in, I use chain oil, wait for 5 - 10 minutes you will oil come out at the bottom end of the cable (at the throttle body). You know it is full of oil now.
- Assemble the cables back, I see lots of improvement.

I think if we can lube it somehow by grease instead of oil then it will be much better and will last longer, but don't know how to do.

Congratulation you have fixed it

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I think if we can lube it somehow by grease instead of oil then it will be much better and will last longer, but don't know how to do.

Congratulation you have fixed it

This tool (or similar) and cable specific PRESSURE lube is a bit quicker and works well.
It clamps around the cable and pressure forces crap out and fresh lube in:

https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0182-Cable-Luber/dp/B0012TYX9W

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Life-L...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Y2PRMVYDM7K72ASDQ86T

 

[mgdaubo]

Thanks TownsendsFJR1300 for sharing, I have never seen this. Now my cables are good, hopefully I will not have to try this

 

[bricksrheavy]

Not really a stuck throttle, but I don't like opening new threads so I hope no one minds if I hijack this one;

Long story short;

Do you guys think sanding the throttle tube section of the handlebar with 2000 sandpaper would be a good idea? - or maybe taking the metal polish to it?


The long story;

Before I bought this bike it spent several years sitting outdoors and being rarely ridden - as a result, ever since I got it I've been lubing and cleaning this & that but this throttle issue keeps coming back to annoy me;
Every once in a while it gets grimy, it doesn't stick but it stops being smooth so I have to take it apart and clean quite often. A large contributing factor is a dust filled rain we get every once in a while but I also think there is something about the design of the switch cluster that "helps" the grime get under the throttle tube since this never happened on my previous bike.

This is a pic of the dust that was underneath the throttle tube - it was last cleaned less than two months ago;


Any suggestions would be appreciated :thumbup:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Leaving the rust there doesn't help at all, it just aggravates the situation..

I'd take a random orbit sander to end of the bar and get it down to clean BARE metal...

Then put some Rust-oleum 7271 SILVER METALLIC spray paint on it. Give it 24 hours to cure. (it's super close to the stock color)

Then re-assemble with a LITTLE bit of oil or WATERPROOF grease.



*The silver on the below FJR frame is the same color as the FZ handle-bars. The bracket shown has the above Rust-oleum paint applied to it:

 

[bricksrheavy]

Thanks for the advice [emoji106] - didn't know I could use something as simple as spray paint, for some reason I thought they coat the handlebars in some special Yamaha Sauce or something

I'm also gonna fill the gap around the kill switch (it has been bricked anyway) with some rubber to try to keep the rain out 'cause that seems to be the main reason so much water gets inside the switch cluster - and consequently under the throttle tube.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Yep, the bars are just painted.

Some di-electric grease squirted into any open electrical areas would help keep water out of there...