Throttle body Sync Questions

[lmarchett]

I bought a Motion Pro carb tuner to Sync the FZ6 and having a little bit of trouble.

1. The instructions call to install restrictors before tuning bit it looks like the completely block off the tube, should i still jam them in hook it up to the vaccume lines?

2. I did the sync without the restrictors and it seemed to work, but I was unable to sync throttle body #2. I had the other three sync screws screwed all the way in and #2 all the way out and number 2 was still off by 2 ticks on the scale.

The bike runs fine but i'm worried that were might be some larger issue @ hand here. Should I not worry about it or think about paying a shop the big $$ to look at it?

(2007 FZ6 Bike was bought used)

 

[FIZZER6]

I would worry that you had a leak in your connection to the TB lines if #2 wouldn't adjust. On my bike I don't have to move the adjustment screws more than 1/4 turn to cause a HUGE difference.

 

[MattR302]

I don't know about that carb tuner specifically, but yes, you should install the restrictors - they keep the needles/fluid level from bouncing around.

You're not supposed to adjust the #1 screw at all, you turn the other 3 to match #1. If #2 is an oddball, it's likely that you have a leak in the #2 tubing somewhere. Check your connections, make sure they're tight.

 

[trepetti]

Regarding turning the number 1 screw, what do you do if you DID turn it? It looks like this gent did just that. There must be a way to return it to an acceptable value? Anyone out there know the procedure?

 

[ccew]

I bought a Motion Pro carb tuner to Sync the FZ6 and having a little bit of trouble.

1. The instructions call to install restrictors before tuning bit it looks like the completely block off the tube, should i still jam them in hook it up to the vaccume lines?

2. I did the sync without the restrictors and it seemed to work, but I was unable to sync throttle body #2. I had the other three sync screws screwed all the way in and #2 all the way out and number 2 was still off by 2 ticks on the scale.

The bike runs fine but i'm worried that were might be some larger issue @ hand here. Should I not worry about it or think about paying a shop the big $$ to look at it?

(2007 FZ6 Bike was bought used)

Hi there, i have this model and yes use the restrictors it'll work just fine with them. Just make sure they're in there properly and do not get rotated in there, blocking off the flow. As per the other post, yeah, 1/4 turn does a lot you should not be needing to go that far (all way in). As a side note, once this model get air bubbles in it, it won't work properly. You have to flush and refill the reservoirs. check their web page for the instructions. I used ATF as the replacement.

 

[lmarchett]

I will reinstall the restrictors and give it another shot. To be clear the #2 throttle body would adjust but it would only adjust up ( further away from the sync from 1,3,&4).

 

[iSteve]

Did you calibrate the Motion Pro tuner before syncing?

 

[lmarchett]

I did calibrate the tool before using, they were dead even when I started.

( Calibrated by hooking up to TB # 1 and leveling out the fluid to around 1/3 the fill tubes. )

 

[FinalImpact]

FWIW: You might look under the TBs and confirm all of the clamps are tight. A very LONG 3mm Allen driver is required. The clamps have a positive stop so once firm the bolt stops turning.

If you're fluid isn't jumping with every twitch of the engine I wouldn't worry about the restrictors.

If all the boots are tight, I'd screw number one in a 1/4 of turn and see if you get control of #2. If all of them are open too much it impacts the cold idle speed and you end up cracking open the throttle plates too far. If this happens it won't fast idle when cold.

 

[Carlos840]

If all the boots are tight, I'd screw number one in a 1/4 of turn and see if you get control of #2. If all of them are open too much it impacts the cold idle speed and you end up cracking open the throttle plates too far. If this happens it won't fast idle when cold.

I thought the first rule of the throttle body sync was "never touch screw number one"

Is it a good idea to fool with number 1 if you don't have a vacuum pump to set it correctly?

 

[FinalImpact]

I thought the first rule of the throttle body sync was "never touch screw number one"

Is it a good idea to fool with number 1 if you don't have a vacuum pump to set it correctly?

I may be mistaken but it sounds like it was already messed with. As rule; correct, don't touch it as its the baseline. However, if no leaks are found, you have little choice as its not responding as is. Assuming all other factors have been addressed, (plugs gapped, valve lash, vacuum leaks, idle speed etc).

Perhaps we should all turn ours in COUNTING the turns to seat #1 and Post up the values. It could be there is a common range OR even a set value. As individuals, we will never know. As a forum, we could tally the votes, grab the mean and guide others.

I encourage everyone to write down "the turns in count for all four" BEFORE MESSING WITH THEM. Worst case, you put them back where they were when you found them and start over.

Q? how is a vacuum pump going to help? Can you offer some insight on that statement? tks!

 

[Carlos840]

I may be mistaken but it sounds like it was already messed with. As rule; correct, don't touch it as its the baseline. However, if no leaks are found, you have little choice as its not responding as is. Assuming all other factors have been addressed, (plugs gapped, valve lash, vacuum leaks, idle speed etc).

Perhaps we should all turn ours in COUNTING the turns to seat #1 and Post up the values. It could be there is a common range OR even a set value. As individuals, we will never know. As a forum, we could tally the votes, grab the mean and guide others.

I encourage everyone to write down "the turns in count for all four" BEFORE MESSING WITH THEM. Worst case, you put them back where they were when you found them and start over.

Q? how is a vacuum pump going to help? Can you offer some insight on that statement? tks!

My bad, i meant vacuum gauge not pump!

According to what i read the standard sync tool (morgan carb tuner, etc) only allows you to get a relative reading.

If for some reason the value for #1 is wrong or has been tempered with you cannot set it back correctly without using a vacuum gauge.

According to the manual the intake vacuum should be 29.0 kPa (8.6 inHg) (218 mmHg). So if he can he should find a vacuum gauge, get cylinder 1 correct, and start again.


I doubt we could find a precise enough common value between all our bikes, from reading a lot about the sync before i did mine it appears every bike reacts differently!
Some can be tuned perfectly to be in sync a idle and at 4000 rpm, on some you have to compromise as if set correctly at idle they are out of sync at 4000rpm. Some are still perfect after 20000 miles and some are out after 5000!

PS: I'm surprised to see how many people still fiddle with number 1 screw! The manual clearly states "don't touch screw 1", the internet is full of threads of people complaining about screwing things up by touching screw one, there are loads of thread saying "don't touch screw 1", and still people go and touch screw 1!

 

[FinalImpact]

FWIW: the manual is little vague about how to do this once is whacked out.

If i were to guess - it says get the idle speed close ~1300 and confirm intake vacuum is 29.0 kPa (8.6 inHg) (218mmHg). Then it goes on about TB #1 is the baseline. IMO it reads that Throttle Body #1 is the base, not necessarily Bleed screw #1, but body as there are 2 throttle bodies. 4 Venturis or stacks. Anyway - at the factory its set for emission output which may or may not be where its runs best. O2, hydrocarbons, NOx PPM, etc..

For us a vacuum gauge is helpful as most engines are pretty happy with an AFR brought about by setting the Fuel Mixture ~14.1. In this setup, the fuel is constant and its the air metering which we have access to change. In short, set the idle for 1300 RPM, screw the air bleeds in to obtain highest vacuum at idle while still matching the 4 cylinders. This may yield an intake vacuum of 218mmHg as taken from a port common to ALL cylinders.

I snapped this photo of mine idling ~1050 RPM. That's where I keep it (synced at 1250). It's roughly 7.0 inHg at 1050 and that reading was taken from a "T" I added by the pressure sensor. After balancing mine I turned all screws in 1/8 of turn to richen it. Even #1. Purrs like 4 kittens in harmony! Not saying you should do that, but it works for me.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

First off, put the restictors in per the manufacturer. As posted above it keeps the tool from bouncing around.

Years ago, I tried getting #1 cylinder up to Yamaha suggested pressure (at sea level), no way could I get it set there. (Of course I didn't count the turns out before screwing with it, duh....)

Its NOT critical to get the suggusted vacuum at idle, but to get ALL the cylinders pulling the same vacuum..

With that said, no, its not mentioned in the manual the #1 base screw adjustment.

Some research on my end, I found 3/4 to 1 full turn out (closer to 1 turn) on the #1 base screw is about where you should be. Mine is currently set at 3/4 and I have all clyinders within 2 mm's variance (10mm's is inside spec's). (Bike runs very smooth, idles dead smooth at 1,000 RPM's, no backfiring/popping with open Scorps, etc...)

If you run out of adjustment on #2-4 cylinders, OPEN screw #1 (CC) just slightly, it'll give you more adjustment on 2-4 cylinders.


BTW, although I normally keep my idle set at 1,000 RPM's, I did sync at 1,300. I also tried getting more vacum at 1,000 RPMs, nope, wouldn't happen.

Not mentioned (and why you NEED that restrictor in the lines), re-check you sync at 4,000 RPM's (hold the throttle STEADY). (Without the restrictor, it'll bounce about big time).

I've synced several FZ6's and found the #4 cylinder, at 4K RPM's, pulls a bit harder. Re-checking/adjusting the sync at 4k helps rid the engine of vibrations. You'll find the idle sync changes very little but find a happy medium... All the FZ's (Ruggybuggy included), I got the 4K sync within 3 mm's.

I eliminated probably 85% of the vibs coming thru the seat/bars. I was very close to selling the bike as it was that annoying. As a side note, it was within spec's.

 

[lmarchett]

To follow up on this thread.

** I set #1 to about 3/4 a turn out. **

I reinserted the restrictors and that helps level out the fluid.

During recalibration I found I now have bubbles in the viewing tubes, as a previous member stated above . However the bubbles are consistent and I calibrated it with them anyway,

Was able to sync the throttle bodies as normal, got them pretty flat at 4k, with #2 being a little below at idle.

Restrictors made the difference, or maybe there was a kink in the tubing before not sure.

Runs smooth, Thanks for all the help guys!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

To follow up on this thread.

** I set #1 to about 3/4 a turn out. **

I reinserted the restrictors and that helps level out the fluid.

During recalibration I found I now have bubbles in the viewing tubes, as a previous member stated above . However the bubbles are consistent and I calibrated it with them anyway,

Was able to sync the throttle bodies as normal, got them pretty flat at 4k, with #2 being a little below at idle.

Restrictors made the difference, or maybe there was a kink in the tubing before not sure.

Runs smooth, Thanks for all the help guys!

Excellent!

The restrictors make all the difference (more so in a big bore, high vacuum engine, ie V-twin, etc).

Just as a side note for others, when I was researching getting a sync tool, I ended up purchasing a Morgan Carbtune ( www.carbtune.com ) as it uses SS rods, NO liquids, nothing to sync in the tool, No spilling anything, etc. Its paid for itself many times over syncing other bikes besides the FZ..

 

[Carlos840]

Excellent!

The restrictors make all the difference (more so in a big bore, high vacuum engine, ie V-twin, etc).

Just as a side note for others, when I was researching getting a sync tool, I ended up purchasing a Morgan Carbtune ( www.carbtune.com ) as it uses SS rods, NO liquids, nothing to sync in the tool, No spilling anything, etc. Its paid for itself many times over syncing other bikes besides the FZ..

I also bought the Morgan Carbtune to do mine. The tools pays for itself in a single use and is very easy to use! I would definitely recommend it.
After 8000 miles my bike was still 98% good, with number 4 a tiny bit low, i raised it a bit and it was perfect both at idle and at 4000rpm.

Even thought the sync was almost right on before i did it, there was a pretty obvious difference before/after.
If you haven't done and think your bike runs good, take the time to do it, you won't regret it!