Turn signals blown.....it's not the fuse.

[HaChayalBoded]

I'm guessing the relay blew, but how does a relay blow on a relatively new bike with very low miles. I have a half dozen bikes with over 100k miles each with everything intact.

Anyone have an autoparts store part number?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

What year bike, what are the symptoms/issue?

ANY RECENT WORK DONE TO THE BIKE?


If your convinced its a relay, for an 07 its; FE246BH/DENSO

Its in your Yamaha shop manual under electrical spec's. I doubt that's your issue...

 

[HaChayalBoded]

only recent changes are the addition of pod lights, bypassing the ground wire to use as turn signals. This is a friends bike. Everything worked fine except of course that the signals flashed faster than normal (no I was not using led pod lights).

Friend said he tried tucking in some wires, he may have shorted something. I took the pod lights and the connectors out, I'll rewire them.

But the rear lights should be flashing, but nothing is.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

only recent changes are the addition of pod lights, bypassing the ground wire to use as turn signals. This is a friends bike. Everything worked fine except of course that the signals flashed faster than normal (no I was not using led pod lights).

Friend said he tried tucking in some wires, he may have shorted something. I took the pod lights and the connectors out, I'll rewire them.

But the rear lights should be flashing, but nothing is.

In the above bold, I'm not quite sure what that means " bypassing the ground wire to use as turn signals".

The pod lights should be wired completely separate from the signals. You can use a running light wire to a relay to activate the Pods(should you desire).

The rear directional's will not work correctly if the fronts are not. IE, if a bulb burns out, the other bulb may not flash and the blinking speed is almost ALWAYS faster.

If I understand correctly, IMO, put the stock wires back to stock. Check and see what happens.

And in either case, depending on what the wattage the pods pull, possibly wire in a relay (with probably an on/off switch).

**And lastly, as a side note, the FZ6 is VERY LIMITED with excess voltage/watts for accessories. That's why the bike has ONE low beam headlight (saves 55 watts) and ONE high beam headlight. You very likely won't be able to run them without killing the battery(even with a full, healthy charging system)..

 

[HaChayalBoded]

In the above bold, I'm not quite sure what that means " bypassing the ground wire to use as turn signals".

The pod lights should be wired completely separate from the signals. You can use a running light wire to a relay to activate the Pods(should you desire).

The rear directional's will not work correctly if the fronts are not. IE, if a bulb burns out, the other bulb may not flash and the blinking speed is almost ALWAYS faster.

If I understand correctly, IMO, put the stock wires back to stock. Check and see what happens.

And in either case, depending on what the wattage the pods pull, possibly wire in a relay (with probably an on/off switch).

**And lastly, as a side note, the FZ6 is VERY LIMITED with excess voltage/watts for accessories. That's why the bike has ONE low beam headlight (saves 55 watts) and ONE high beam headlight. You very likely won't be able to run them without killing the battery(even with a full, healthy charging system)..

If you want to run your pod lights as turn signals AND running lights you simply bypass the ground wire from the front turn signal wiring. IE you use the blue\green wires and the brown wire and do not use the ground wire as you would with the OEM turn signals. I've been running the bike this way for years when I owned it.

I understand when a blinker goes out the speeds increases on the opposing blinker on the same side. However, mine always flashed at that rate as soon as I installed the pod lights and used them to replace the OEM turn signals. I should have used a diode but I was lazy about it. The reason it flashes faster is the same reason a standard bulb blinks rapidly when one goes out. The resistance of the circuitry is compromised by a blown bulb which heats the switch at a faster rate. Those little T10 bulbs do not offer the same resistance as a standard bulb, hence the rapid flash.

I can't put anything back to stock since the OEM signals are no more. but I did disconnect everything from the front end of the bike. The rears should still work.

I understand the FZ6s limited wattage. That's why I used a dual wattage heated jacket with the FZ6 when I rode it and made sure I kept an eye on the voltmeter when I had it. I would kill all auxiliary power when exiting a highway or when I was within 15 minutes of my destination or standing in NYC traffic.

 

[Motogiro]

I don't know how the OEM or electronic flasher assembly passes current to ground and for that reason I can't comment on the reliability of providing ground path when using the flasher relay circuit to providing the pod light ground. There is another way to do that. A quick way to know if the fuse is good (FZ6 S-1 and S2) is to look at the tail light and license plate light with the key on. If they are not lit there is a good chance the fuse is in fact gone. If the fuse is blown there may also have been a problem when the flasher circuit was being used to switch states to provide ground path and for that reason I've never thought it was good way to provide switching for the pod.

I've attached a diagram of a simple relay that you can add to provide the same function. The circuit shows an LED but it can be an incandescent lamp. Because I don't know the current capability of the circuit ground path that the flasher relay circuit provides I don't know how component failure may effect the entire circuit and in this case it may have caused the failure because it may be passing current beyond it's intended design. You can purchase a solid state version or make your own solid state circuit to do the same function as the relay.
Let us know what you find.

 

[DruGus]

Hi, as Motogiro well answer previously, It is supposed that new bulbs need fewer voltage than oem bulbs, so link interval period changes.

There are lot of aftermarket turn signal relay that force current voltage to same as original.

I´ve been using THIS since i changed oem blinkers. .

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Any updates???

 

[HaChayalBoded]

My friend brought the bike back to me, I bought a different relay from superbrightleds

https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...versal-motorcycle-electronic-flasher/787/842/

Plugged everything back in, and nothing, no signals or 4 way flashers. Fuses are good, also replaced them in case my old eyes were deceiving me.

Now I have the pod lights wired to the oem connectors. I called a friend with an FZ6 and I plugged them in to his bike, bypassing his front turn signals and all worked just fine. I even tried the new LED relay in his bike and it also worked just fine, I also even swapped the fuses between the two bikes, again, everything on his bike worked, on my old bike that another friend now owns, nothing.

I'm at a complete loss here.

 

[HaChayalBoded]

The only thing I can think of is the physical switch is busted, maybe it's simply a solder joint that's broken. Fingers crossed that's the issue.