Valve Adjustments, have you had it done?

[FinalImpact]

just finished the valve spacing and put it back together, checked the spacing after the cams went on and it seemed i had done it right. the only problem is when i went ahead and started her i got one hell of a racket. im working on stripping her back down now but i'm not sure what i did wrong.

The only things i can think are i was off by a tooth, or ... there was a point in the middle of working on it when i heard a semi loud ping and realized that the pickup rotor shaft wasn't at the case marking, leading me to believe it had turned quite a ways when the intake cam shaft was still on (though extraordinarily loose, cap bolts were in like 1 turn) not sure what to think, guess i'll know soon enough maybe.

Sorry to hear this. It sounds like you may have kissed the valves.

Lets not jump to conclusions here. Not sure what the noise was but lets hope it wasn't that!

Bring it up to TDC on the compression stroke and see where the cams are pointed. Good luck!

 

[FinalImpact]

[MENTION=83]VEGASRIDER[/MENTION], would you mind posting a link and General Warning in the OP to warn others not to rotate the engine Counter Clockwise!

Only Rotate Clockwise!!! Thanks!

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-technical/51785-fsm-typo-read-engine-damage-may-occur.html

 

[WaffleKing13]

found what made the noise, and im glad i shut it down shortly after starting her, one of the cam sprocket bolts loosened up somehow ( petty sure i torque speced all of those, maybe i missed this one) anyways it ground down a thin layer of the inside of the aluminum engine case. pretty sure im gonna have to do a teardown of the motor to make sure there are no other particles in the oil system. any suggestions are appriciated, really not sure how this was missed. didnt damage any of the mating surfaces fortunately (no major replacement parts necessary so far, other than my ego) should i go ahead and tear it down or might it be possible to clean the area and reassemble properly?

 

[greg]

Had mine done at 34k miles after my CCT failed. Mechanic said 4 of them were off.

 

[andyfazer600]

Plan to do mine next winter. Current mileage is 19k, guessing it will be about the 24k interval when I come to do it

 

[tejkowskit]

Just did mine at 27000 miles.

All intake were within spec.

All exhaust valves were too loose. Here were the measurements:
1a-0.55 1b-0.66 2a-0.68 2b-0.66 3a-0.6 3b-0.71 4a-0.68 4b-0.55

Corrected to:
1a-0.27mm 1b-0.32mm 2a-0.3mm 2b-0.25mm 3a-0.27mm 3b-0.3mm 4a-0.3mm 4b-0.25mm

How to adjust: http://www.600riders.com/forum/how-to-s-/53398-valve-clearance-adjustment.html

 

[Mac fz6n]

Just had mine checked at 56k miles (first time).

All within spec

Mechanic also said they were all very similar, which he was quite impressed with.
Also, cam chain adjustment was only half way through.

Guess I'm good for another 50k :thumbup:
Gotta love Yamaha quality.

Cheers,
Mac.

 

[LeeFZ]

Just had mine checked at 56k miles (first time).

All within spec

Mechanic also said they were all very similar, which he was quite impressed with.
Also, cam chain adjustment was only half way through.

Guess I'm good for another 50k [emoji106]
Gotta love Yamaha quality.

Cheers,
Mac.

Wow...26K is recommended by the manual. You went way way over. I'm surprised to here its Ok. Done mine at 32k mile. Yeah gotta love Yamaha, some bikes like Ducati, it need to b checke every 6k mile or so.

 

[payneib]

Just had mine done as part of my 24k service. All well within spec I'm told.

 

[Beerdrinker]

At the Yamaha workshop I was informed that the valve adjustment is only need it when we listen a very distinctive metal noise from the engine... I'm close to the 90000KM (55 923.4073 miles) I don't want to listen that noise...

At the time I ask them this question they had a FZ6 with 20000Km (12 427.4238 miles) doing the valve adjustment...

 

[Motogiro]

At the Yamaha workshop I was informed that the valve adjustment is only need it when we listen a very distinctive metal noise from the engine... I'm close to the 90000KM (55 923.4073 miles) I don't want to listen that noise...

At the time I ask them this question they had a FZ6 with 20000Km (12 427.4238 miles) doing the valve adjustment...

Stay far away from that shop! Lol!

Yes, If you hear noise get it fixed but don't wait for noise and go past your valve lash check. If the clearance on the valve lash closes you will not hear a sound until it's too late and damage has occurred. Service the bike at recommended intervals. Especially your first valve lash check! After that you may never have to change shims for the life of the bike. You should have the lash check before a noise is heard.

 

[VEGASRIDER]

Just had mine checked at 56k miles (first time).

All within spec

Mechanic also said they were all very similar, which he was quite impressed with.
Also, cam chain adjustment was only half way through.

Guess I'm good for another 50k :thumbup:
Gotta love Yamaha quality.

Cheers,
Mac.

Wow...26K is recommended by the manual. You went way way over. I'm surprised to here its Ok. Done mine at 32k mile. Yeah gotta love Yamaha, some bikes like Ducati, it need to b checke every 6k mile or so.

I had mine done for the first time at 70k, needless to say, I couldn't say it was all within spec but not too bad.

 

[Motogiro]

Just had mine checked at 56k miles (first time).

All within spec

Mechanic also said they were all very similar, which he was quite impressed with.
Also, cam chain adjustment was only half way through.

Guess I'm good for another 50k :thumbup:
Gotta love Yamaha quality.

Cheers,
Mac.

Wow...26K is recommended by the manual. You went way way over. I'm surprised to here its Ok. Done mine at 32k mile. Yeah gotta love Yamaha, some bikes like Ducati, it need to b checke every 6k mile or so.

I had mine done for the first time at 70k, needless to say, I couldn't say it was all within spec but not too bad.

The Yamaha is a great quality machine and most can go the extra miles and stay close to spec.
I would still follow the recommended valve lash check for at least the first check @ 24k miles. If a valve has poor clearance (on the tight side) a few things are going to happen. One is slowly degraded performance you may not notice and the other which is worse (you will notice) can be a burned valve. You won't know a valve has burned until it is too late. This burned valve will require the top end of the engine to come off to repair it. In my book that's going to be major down time and you'll have to ask who's going to do the job right. The entire head assembly will have to come off the motor. For some the valve lash check will be a challenge and so if you're not experienced you might want someone else do it. I had a forum member here in San Diego call me who went to do the job and was off too many teeth on the cam shaft. He kissed the valves and decided it wasn't worth fixing the bike.

I didn't do my valve lash check right at the recommended miles but also not too far away and I feel better about doing it.

When I did mine, only a few were on the tight side still within spec. I set them all in the middle of their spec.

http://www.600riders.com/forum/showpost.php?p=567074&postcount=169

 

[LeeFZ]

The Yamaha is a great quality machine and most can go the extra miles and stay close to spec.
I would still follow the recommended valve lash check for at least the first check @ 24k miles. If a valve has poor clearance (on the tight side) a few things are going to happen. One is slowly degraded performance you may not notice and the other which is worse (you will notice) can be a burned valve. You won't know a valve has burned until it is too late. This burned valve will require the top end of the engine to come off to repair it. In my book that's going to be major down time and you'll have to ask who's going to do the job right. The entire head assembly will have to come off the motor. For some the valve lash check will be a challenge and so if you're not experienced you might want someone else do it. I had a forum member here in San Diego call me who went to do the job and was off too many teeth on the cam shaft. He kissed the valves and decided it wasn't worth fixing the bike.

I didn't do my valve lash check right at the recommended miles but also not too far away and I feel better about doing it.

When I did mine, only a few were on the tight side still within spec. I set them all in the middle of their spec.

http://www.600riders.com/forum/showpost.php?p=567074&postcount=169

I had mine checked at 32K, didn't have to adjust it. Will have to check again next year possibly since I ride quite a bit. Already put 12K this year I love my FZ, makes me grine and excited every time I see Twisties roads lol.

 

[Beerdrinker]

Stay far away from that shop! Lol!

Yes, If you hear noise get it fixed but don't wait for noise and go past your valve lash check. If the clearance on the valve lash closes you will not hear a sound until it's too late and damage has occurred. Service the bike at recommended intervals. Especially your first valve lash check! After that you may never have to change shims for the life of the bike. You should have the lash check before a noise is heard.

Really? Man, now I'm really worried, the workshop I mention before it's from the Yamaha dealer, like, the REAL Yamaha! I don't know if "workshop" it's the correct nomenclature for the Yamaha mechanic because my English isn't native... I make all the service at the recommended intervals (by the book) at the Yamaha dealer. I know that they skip some expensive things like brake lines, fuel lines, clutch cables etc. if they notice they last a bit more, because they tell me that: "It's time to change but we don't change because it's expensive and it's ok without problem until the next service"
At the last service they told me that the clutch cable needs to be substitute in the next maintenance (91000Km = 56 544.7785 miles)............. What should I be worried about? Brake the engine?

 

[VEGASRIDER]

At the last service they told me that the clutch cable needs to be substitute in the next maintenance (91000Km = 56 544.7785 miles)............. What should I be worried about? Brake the engine?

Regarding the clutch cable, I changed mine out at 70k miles, only because I wanted to, not because I needed to. I'm still on my original throttle and front brake cable. I can't recall too many clutch cable snapping or becoming frayed. If you decide to change the clutch cable, make sure it's the Yamaha OEM, I've heard the after market cables had issues with the length, either too short or too long.

 

[tejkowskit]

At the last service they told me that the clutch cable needs to be substitute in the next maintenance (91000Km = 56 544.7785 miles)............. What should I be worried about? Brake the engine?

Regarding the clutch cable, I changed mine out at 70k miles, only because I wanted to, not because I needed to. I'm still on my original throttle and front brake cable. I can't recall too many clutch cable snapping or becoming frayed. If you decide to change the clutch cable, make sure it's the Yamaha OEM, I've heard the after market cables had issues with the length, either too short or too long.

I changed my clutch cable last year at about 28,000 miles. It had been fraying at the lever where the cable is exposed when the clutch is pulled in. Seems to be the most common spot for any clutch cable to fray. Its definitely smoother and easier to pull now though. As for throttle cable, that's still original.
I agree with vegasrider, get an OEM cable. If you're doing it yourself, it takes patience as the clutch cable has to be snaked through the bike in a specific mannor as it's not completely flexible. Removing the gas tank and airbox is a big help, too. Here a link for clutch cable replacement. http://www.600riders.com/forum/how-to-s-/14465-how-replace-clutch-cable.html

 

[Plymothian]

Thought I'd do a price comparison for anyone who is wondering. Mine is not due a valve clearance check for another 12000 miles, but I was quoted 150GBP (224 USD) a couple of weeks ago by my local private garage. That's including shims (if needed), labour and tax. For the amount of time it looks to take, I think that's a bloody bargain. Also they are the only garage I Trust now to do a good job.

 

[e30_325es]

Just checked mine last night. Intake was perfect, all exhaust were about 1-2 thou too tight. I'm going to determine what shims to order and then adjust them when it gets colder out. 24k on it.

 

[Chapin]

Had mine checked at 42000km exactly. Intake were all fine but exhaust were all off quite a bit.