Rear sprocket nut problem

[maverick1970]

OK guys & gals I am in need of some help.

I'm in the process of doing the 520 conversion and two of my rear sprocket nuts will not come off. They spin but do not come off when loosen or get tighter when attempted to tighten back up. I have verified that only the nut is spinning and not the bolt.

Again, the problem is not that the nut is on there so tight I can't get it to budge but it is loose and only spins.

 

[fudge_FZ6]

by the look of the pic there is a insert inside the nut. where the 2 groves are between the nut wall and the bolt stick two screwer drivers in the groves and try to turn the insert out. its sort of the same idea as a c-clip.

 

[davidsa1]

Might try to put a set of vise grips on them and pull on the nut while you turn it, not sure if that will work but worth a shot.

 

[wrightme43]

Ever seen a nut splitter?
Craftsman Nut Cracker - Model 4772 at Sears.com

 

[Fz6Sa]

Ever seen a nut splitter?
Craftsman Nut Cracker - Model 4772 at Sears.com

Just reading that post made me crunch forward a bit in reflex .....

 

[fudge_FZ6]

by the look of the pic the nut is not striped and a pair of vise grips should never ever be used on a nut/bolt thats not striped

 

[wrightme43]

One of two things have happened.

The stud is broken loose and spinning with the nut, or the threads have broken loose on the stud and are spinning inside the nut.

It is a nylock insert nut.

split it, drill it off, or cut it off with a torch, or put a impact on it and try to break it.

Or you could use a air hammer to cut it off, or a cutting wheel, or a grinder.

It will come off with persistance.

 

[Smittyboy]

nut splitter equals amazing!!! I love them!

 

[davidsa1]

by the look of the pic the nut is not striped and a pair of vise grips should never ever be used on a nut/bolt thats not striped

By the sound of it the nut is bad and will need to be cut off more than likely, if you get a good bite on the flat of the nut I don't see what it will hurt.

 

[maverick1970]

One of two things have happened.

The stud is broken loose and spinning with the nut, or the threads have broken loose on the stud and are spinning inside the nut.

Well I've taken a wrench and have turned the nut while at the same time watching both sides of the stud. The stud is definitely not turning as I turn the nut. I guess I'll have to go and but a nut cracker along with some new nuts. GEEZZZ

 

[Smittyboy]

Word of caution... Don't go apenuts right away and crank your balls off... No pun intended. Cut just enough to get the nut off. Again no pun, you just don't wanna F' up the threads on the bolt...

 

[Red Wazp]

With all this nut splittin' going on somebody is going to get hurt.

 

[SovietRobot]

Bust a nut, bust a nut, everybody bust a nut with corn nuts.

Sorry, I had to.

 

[maverick1970]

OK I was able to get the nuts off. The bad news is that the studs are stripped out. My next question is how do you remove the hub studs? I would rather only have to replace the two stripped out studs that replace the entire hub. $2.50 is a whole lot better than $150.

 

[wrightme43]

They should knock out, but you never know.

You could always try die to recut the threads if they are not to bad.

If you decide to knock them out, support your hub well, and use a good solid steel punch and ball peen hammer with eye protection.

 

[Denver_FZ6]

I don't know if it's possible or even advisable to repair the threads using a bushing insert: Timesert thread repair

I would probably bite the bullet and get new hub from Ron Ayers: Ron Ayers rear wheel group ($99)

Just chalk it up to cost of conversion.

They should knock out, but you never know.

I originally assumed the studs were pressed in too, like most auto hubs,
but looking at Ron Ayers diagrams, it appears the studs are threaded into the hub.

 

[Fred]

If the thread repair was done well, then I think you'd be OK.

The thing to keep in mind for an assembly like this is that the studs themselves do not transmit power between the sprocket and wheel hub. They just provide a clamping force between the two. The friction between the sprocket and wheel hub is what keeps the two parts from moving against each other.

If the studs were transmitting the engine's power to the wheels directly, they wouldn't last very long at all, as the sprocket would hammer against the studs every time you got on or off the throttle.

So the key to a thread repair is that the repaired thread be able to hold the required torque for the fastener. A good repair with a Timesert or similar will do the job. If you use a Heli-coil, use enough inserts to rethread the entire depth of the stripped hole.

That's my two cents and some on the subject. I have not tried it myself though. And in the end, it's your bike and you're responsible for deciding what is safe.

Fred

 

[The Toecutter]

by the look of the pic there is a insert inside the nut. where the 2 groves are between the nut wall and the bolt stick two screwer drivers in the groves and try to turn the insert out. its sort of the same idea as a c-clip.

Fudge was right.the c-clip in the end of the nut was a retainer in case the nut lossened it wouldnt have fell off.by not removing it first is how you managed to strip the studs out.make sure to put new cir clips back on after you get it re-assembled..sorry to hear this happened to you goodluck.:thumbup:

 

[Cali rider]

I had 2 of these studs strip on my 04 recently. The studs are THREADED into the hub, NOT PRESSED IN!!!!!!! Do not try to press them out!! Grasp the stud with a vice-grip or similar tool and un-screw from the hub (they are normal RH thread). The hub will be fine. I decided to replace all 6 studs and nuts as they are cheap.

A word of caution when installing the new studs: the torque value listed in the service manual (72 ft./lb.) is too high, you will strip the nuts/studs again. I tightened them to 45 ft./lb.

 

[maverick1970]

Did you leave the hub in the wheel or did you take the hub out and put in a vice?