Capo79
Viking spirit
So.... Where can I get a manual tensioner then?
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So, someone had already replace the cam chain tensioner on your bike, with a manual unit...... I hear that's the best solution. OEM, the FZ6 uses a hydraulic unit, just like the FZ1.
So.... Where can I get a manual tensioner then?
Okay, I opened up the cam chain panel. Everything is like it's supposed to be. Chain didn't show any sings of being worn out, nor was it slack in any way. So far so good.
I started up the bike and got this amazingly brilliant idea. What if I try to adjust that little screw inside the tensioner while the engine is running? That did the trick, and now I'm 100% sure what this is. It's not the spring function that's worn out. It's that little screw itself that's loose, actually. It rattles inside the tensioner, which gives that sound at certain frequencies. In other words, the lower rev bands. It stopped once the screwdriver came in contact with the screw.
The functionality of the tensioner is still there, but it figured it wanted to start making noise when hot I won't bother finding a manual one, now that I know the hydralic ones are kind of good. Wonder what Yamaha wants for a new tensioner...
Capo,
I think touching the internals on the tensioner and that making it quiet, should be a 'dead give away' that it's not providing the correct tension. The hydraulics are not keeping the tensioner snugged up. (I think we are in agreement on this point)
It is my view that this indicates the functionality of the tensioner is compromised. Possibly, it's not severe, but make no mistake......it's dying.
The manual adjuster design relies on threads to 'hold' the correct adjustment, rather than something that has a check valve in it, and needs some sort of seal to contain the oil. The manual type is simply a bolt with a lock nut. Once it's set, it cannot lose tension.
The remaining points of wear would be the guide that is pressed into the chain itself, and the pins in the links of the chain.
Were I searching for a replacement tensioner, it would come down to cost. I know I can set a bolt with a lock nut -- that's identical to the final drive chain. (Probably the same deal as how you discovered the tensioner is 'bad' in the first place.)
The OEM unit is possibly less expensive due to the volume of manufacture..... but the manual adjuster should be less...... it's a heck of a lot less complex. I know the bolt system will not come back out of adjustment.
Retail in the states is $135, discounted cost is $85.
( OEM motorcycle and ATV parts from Honda, Yamaha & Polaris – Cycle Parts Warehouse ) This is an 07 model.
Its not cheap but a lot less expensive than a new engine. As mentioned above, the spring inside is loosing tension causing the rattle and will eventually fail causing major damage.
Its not hydralic assisted, just a tension spring. BTW, the FJR's use a similar tensioner (same style) with the same problems...
You'll be good after the replacement....
All I can say is definitely change your cam chain tensioner every twenty thousand miles. The hydraulic auto tensioner that is oem on an fz6 just does not have the life span. Mine went at 26000 miles. Capital "N" Noises from the top end. Me scratching my head, then waiting a month and a half while Yamaha rebuilt the engine under warranty. New valves cams cylinders pistons. I can't imagine the cost if I had to pay. I replaced the tensioner again at 45000 miles so as to avoid a repeat performance on my dime. I replaced the chain and guides too, though they looked beautiful when I got inside. Now at 76,000 miles, I'm going to switch to a manual tensioner. I'll let you know how that goes. But definitely DO NOT IGNORE THIS. If you hear noise, it's too late. I can't stress how fundamentally important this lousy little piece is. It is responsible for keeping your engine from literally bashing it's own head in. And it's an easy thing to swap out. Get the YAMAHA factory manual, in actual paper, not cd-rom, and follow it's instructions. Change your tensioner. That's all I can recommend. Other than that, check your four motor mount bolts for wear and torque. They are small, and I've discovered two cracked ones. And anti-sieze everything.
Love,
Simon
I bout my bike 2 weeks ago with 200 miles. Its an 2009. The first day riding I heard the cam chain. It was unmistakable. I thought it was something bad in the valvetrain until I looked on this forum. The thing is that it will only do it after its been thoroughly warmed up. It also won't do it all the time. Sometimes its non existent even after warmed up. I now have 1000 miles. I have changed the oil to no avail. Im thinking manual tensioner is way to go. Im scared to death of that chain coming off. One thing I was thinking about was going to a heavier oil. Im using synthetic 10W 40 now. Im thinking a heavier oil will hold pressure better for the tensioner when warm? So is manual tensioner an option for this bike?
Clay