Stripped oil drain plug

[unclepickle1]

Hey all,

I was trying to do my first oil change on my 09 FZ6R, but the drain plug would not budge. I moved up to a torque wrench, and now the plug is totally stripped.

So before I take out the drill, would anybody here recommend another tool? I've looked at Grip-Tite Super Sockets, but they only make them 3/8" drive, and I definitely need a 1/2" since this thing is on so tight.

Thanks

 

[ChevyFazer]

What part is striped? The head or the Threads?

If the head is striped, then you probably weren't using the right size wrench/socket, I can't remember right off hand but I want to say 17mm. Try finding a 6point socket to take it out.

 

[Darth Fazer]

They make special sockets designed to grip stripped bolt heads, I'd check at Sears, an auto parts store or maybe a good hardware store. You hammer them on & then twist them off. By the way, NEVER use a torque wrench to loosen a bolt, it can damage it and/or make it inaccurate.

 

[Motogiro]

There are lots of tools out there. Depending on the damage to the head of the bolt there are better or worse tools. This is where wrenching experience comes in. Shock the head of the bolt. The worst part is when the bolt head, washer, and surface of the case have bonded and in some sense are welded to each other. Warmth is also a very powerful tool. Make sure the engine has been well warmed up.

Which Damaged Bolt Removal Tool - ChevyTalk --The Social Network for Chevy Fans

 

[motojoe122]

They make special sockets designed to grip stripped bolt heads, I'd check at Sears, an auto parts store or maybe a good hardware store. You hammer them on & then twist them off. By the way, NEVER use a torque wrench to loosen a bolt, it can damage it and/or make it inaccurate.

These are awesome! I had to use one to get the acorn style nuts off my boat trailer wheels.

 

[unclepickle1]

They make special sockets designed to grip stripped bolt heads, I'd check at Sears, an auto parts store or maybe a good hardware store. You hammer them on & then twist them off. By the way, NEVER use a torque wrench to loosen a bolt, it can damage it and/or make it inaccurate.

Thanks, I found one here IRWIN TOOLS - Hand Tools & Power Tool Accessories

Hopefully this will do the trick!

 

[tejkowskit]

maybe take a hack saw and cut a line to use a screw driver before you drill it out! That would be last resort for me though.. If you have it heat it up with oxy-acetylene maybe? Just be careful with all the aluminum on the bike.

 

[Darth Fazer]

Thanks, I found one here IRWIN TOOLS - Hand Tools & Power Tool Accessories

Hopefully this will do the trick!

Obviously, make sure you have a replacement drain plug on hand. I replaced mine with a magnetic one from Auto Zone.

 

[FinalImpact]

Did you get this out?

Another trick, aside from using the punch to shock the threads is to use some filler to take the slop out of the socket and bolt head (before it rounds off) like an aluminum pop can cut into a circle and placed over the head of the bolt. Three to four loving taps should get it on there. If you need sledge and have to slam it, TRIM material off before you damage the drain pan. Some trimming may be required and cheap sockets may bust.

A small propane torch can do wonders too.

 

[vinmansbrew]

Dude, big ol vice grip. Make sure the teeth dig in and pull on that sucker. Someone suggested cutting a slot in the bolt head. That works too but instead of a screwdriver, use a impact driver and hammer. An impact driver should be in every riders toolbox.

 

[unclepickle1]

Dude, big ol vice grip. Make sure the teeth dig in and pull on that sucker. Someone suggested cutting a slot in the bolt head. That works too but instead of a screwdriver, use a impact driver and hammer. An impact driver should be in every riders toolbox.

I'd like to think I can do it with a vice grip, but the head is pretty rounded off.

And if I couldn't get it off with a half inch drive socket wrench when it WASN'T rounded, I could only image a vice grip being more difficult.

Anywho, the new plug and the bolt-out socket is on its way.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The tool in post #3 along with a hand impact hammer and some heat should take care of it. If the impact hammer doesn't do it(it should) get that socket remover on tight, put the bike on the centerstand and put a large breaker bar to the socket. SUPPORT the outer end of the extension so it doesn't slip off and lean on it CC.

A large vise grip, rounded inside, if you can fit it in the area would work too with a good shock (smack with a hammer) but may, possibly, if struck crooked, mess up your pan easily.

Before I would start drilling the bolt out, if you know someone with a MIG welder, I'd weld a short tab to the nut so you could have something to tap CC with a medium sized hammer... You may have to cut the tab off before spinning out fully depending on space...

BTW, on some FJR's, it wasn't unusual for the drain plug to be way over torqued from the factory..

As stated above, use a 6 point socket when ever possible, there's much more surface area contacting the bolt/nut... IMHO, when re-installing the drain bolt/washer (I use a re-usable copper washer), I don't tighten more than 12-15 lbs. 30+ lbs is a bit much for a fastener not carrying any load...

Good luck.

 

[CBRF3RIDER]

BTW, on some FJR's, it wasn't unusual for the drain plug to be way over torqued from the factory..

I know new cars are often the same way from the factory. Took an air impact wrench to get the plug off from my grandpas new GMC when I changed his oil he first time. I dont get how they can get away with this and not crack the oil pan. I over torqued the plug on my Kawi just a little bit and cracked it a few years ago. Such a PITA on that bike, had to remove the headers to swap it out.

 

[vinmansbrew]

Cycle pans are so easy to crack it seems. I cracked the threads on my CB years back just after I got it. Typical noob mistake really. I got a washer that was rubber coated. It actually worked very well for a number of years with no drips. Last year I decided to get a pan with no cracks and not worry about it.

 

[Reed]

I actually stripped the threads out on my oil pan. I used an "oversized," thread cutting oil drain plug from Napa, but I think next time I change my oil, I'm going to put one of those oil drain valves, so I don't have to worry about stripping anything out again. Does anybody have any experiences with these?

 

[GTPAddict]

Just saw this trolling ebay, thought it might help..

2006 FZ6-S FZ6S OIL PAN The bidding is $9.99 right now. I'm, assuming the engine in the FZ6 is the same as the FZ6-S

2006 FZ6-S FZ6S OIL PAN | eBay

 

[CanadianFZ6]

Get some good tools/socket set... Sounds like poor quality socket or an improper size was used... Anyway, high quality tools is a must if you want to prevent this from happening again down the road...