Add me to the statistics... Another overtightened oil plug!

Andyman

New Member
Joined
Jul 27, 2015
Messages
17
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Murfreesboro, TN
Visit site
Step one is done. Pan and exhaust are off. Just waiting for new parts to roll in.

It feels like its been an age since I've ridden!

Here's some snaps:

Pulling the headers out.
View attachment 65316

View attachment 65317

Thanks to Scott (Townsend) and FinalImpact for the tips on lots of penetrating oil. It was way easier than I anticipated.
View attachment 65318

A few allens on the oil pan were hard to reach but my and my buddy Frankensteined a few items together and made it work.
righttoolsright.jpg

Boom! Barely got through the first round of beers before we were done!

All in all I hosed the nuts on the header down and let them soak for 30 min or so 3 times before hitting them with the socket. It really wasn't bad at all.

Appreciate all the help on here. This forum rocks!
stepone.jpg
 

payneib

Member
Joined
Oct 28, 2013
Messages
622
Reaction score
5
Points
0
Location
UK
Visit site
Any excuse to flash those headers! I'm polishing mine up again for a remembrance weekend in a couple of weeks, two sessions in and they're still nowhere like that.

Op: thanks for the ride along on changing the pan, a good heads up incase I need it one day.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6
Site Supporter
Joined
Feb 7, 2009
Messages
12,516
Reaction score
1,157
Points
113
Location
Cape Coral, Florida, USA
Visit site
As noted earlier, 12 ft lbs is plenty on that bolt when re-assembling.


If you not comfy with that torque, simply drilling the head of the bolt with a small bit(maybe 1/8" tops).

Then safety wire the bolt for insurance wouldn't hurt. :thumbup:
 

Andyman

New Member
Joined
Jul 27, 2015
Messages
17
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Murfreesboro, TN
Visit site
Now would be a great time to polish up that header!

I started on them! I found your old post and put about 30 min into it. You weren't kidding about elbow grease! I got the mother's chrome polish instead of the mag and aluminum thinking it would be better but all it seems to do is shine and not work any of the junk off.

I guess it's time to man up! :cool:

Op: thanks for the ride along on changing the pan, a good heads up incase I need it one day.

I found blacksha's post (http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/36548-how-replace-your-oil-pan.html) and thought oh man I'm going to have to disassemble half the bike to do this.

At least for a 2007 all you have to pull is the headers to get to the oil pan. 30 min and a little pre soaking with penetrating oil.

Now if I could just fix my broken pride!
 

FinalImpact

2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone
Site Supporter
Joined
Mar 16, 2011
Messages
11,137
Reaction score
184
Points
63
Location
USA, OR
Visit site
Does your torque wrench go low enough for pan install? 12 Nm (1.2 m·kg, 8.7 ft·lb). You need to do it in two steps. Hand snug will do I suspect, then up to final spec.

I had mine off during the header swap from S2 to S1 and a little pan modification. It took about three passes around to stop settling even at those low tq values.

Tips:
Get some Mass Air Flow Sensor cleaner (MAF cleaner) to remove all oil and residue from surfaces. Its better than brake clean
Apply a very thin bead of sealant to outer edge of pan only and outer edge of gasket to engine. You do not want excess going inside and getting into the oil pickup screen or sucked up and plug a passage in the engine.

Toyota, Honda, and General Motors (GM) make great Form A Gasket products.

Clean everything spotless and oil free
IIRC getting the gasket stuck to the block was best.
Fit pan and get the easy bolts started. Get all bolts in and hand snug following CRISS CROSS PATTERN.
 

FinalImpact

2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone
Site Supporter
Joined
Mar 16, 2011
Messages
11,137
Reaction score
184
Points
63
Location
USA, OR
Visit site
Dude, I've had mine two years now and have only just started taking my back wheel off, let alone diving in to the engine. Consider your pride restored!

^^ true dat!!!

Bike has been pretty reliable so the only reason it been apart was for mods!

Wheels, forks, shock, bars, rear sets, triple, Valve clearance adjustment, etc.....

And well this... welding bung to S1 header, build a mid-pipe, remove bump in pan allowing S1 header to S2 chassis.
IMG_20150114_182431_348_zpsmez30j0y.jpg
 

payneib

Member
Joined
Oct 28, 2013
Messages
622
Reaction score
5
Points
0
Location
UK
Visit site
Don't worry, mine only get done for special occasions. Most of the year they're a horrible shade of brown (think interior decorating in the '70s) with a load of surface rust around the link pipe between 2 and 3.
 

Zealot

The Village Idiot
Joined
Jan 1, 2015
Messages
421
Reaction score
2
Points
0
Location
Canada, Ontario(GTA)
Visit site
Man, I've got a oil pan that works 100%... I'd sell you that for less than what they're asking online!
(And, since I've got a 100% intact engine - just about everything else you could need on it)
 
Top