- Joined
- May 8, 2008
- Messages
- 14,996
- Reaction score
- 1,163
- Points
- 113
- Location
- San Diego, Ca.
Any error codes? Many times an error code will bring you right to the problem.
Hi, thanks for jumping in.Any error codes? Many times an error code will bring you right to the problem.
Thanks very much!The original loss of power, and the ability to only run for two minutes, are not connected. You have reassembled something incorrectly. Make sure that you haven't kinked the fuel line, and more importantly the tank vent. The next time it stops running after 2 minutes, immediately open the fuel cap and listen for a rush of air. If that happens you have a clogged or kinked vent. You can confirm this by running the bike with the fuel cap open (you'll need a second key, or you have to squeeze the tabs on the cap to remove the key).
Regarding the original problem, as I mentioned in my post above there is a methodical process from trouble shooting. Without codes we have to go old school - by testing. Once you get past the 2-minute run problem you will have confirmed that fuel delivery is good. The next item to check is spark.
A failed (or nearly failed) coil will test/act perfectly until it becomes hot. Once hot, the resistance increases and it is unable to recover/charge and provide enough current to produce a meaningful spark. This is especially true at high rpm when the dwell time decreases.
Each coil must be removed and inspected for any signs of cracking. A cracked coil is a failed coil. The next step is to check the resistance of the Primary and Secondary windings. The primary leads (where the spark plug wires go) should show a resistance between 1.53 to 2.07 ohms at room temperature. Heat the coils with a hair dryer and check the resistance hot - it should be at the upper end of the range. Perform a similar test on the Secondary (the spade connectors). The resistance should be between 12k to 18k ohms. Check these at room temperature and heated.
Let us know what you find BEFORE going off in your own direction. We want to be methodical.
Blew through both the vent pipes from the tank this morning. All clear and fine.The original loss of power, and the ability to only run for two minutes, are not connected. You have reassembled something incorrectly. Make sure that you haven't kinked the fuel line, and more importantly the tank vent. The next time it stops running after 2 minutes, immediately open the fuel cap and listen for a rush of air. If that happens you have a clogged or kinked vent. You can confirm this by running the bike with the fuel cap open (you'll need a second key, or you have to squeeze the tabs on the cap to remove the key).
Regarding the original problem, as I mentioned in my post above there is a methodical process from trouble shooting. Without codes we have to go old school - by testing. Once you get past the 2-minute run problem you will have confirmed that fuel delivery is good. The next item to check is spark.
A failed (or nearly failed) coil will test/act perfectly until it becomes hot. Once hot, the resistance increases and it is unable to recover/charge and provide enough current to produce a meaningful spark. This is especially true at high rpm when the dwell time decreases.
Each coil must be removed and inspected for any signs of cracking. A cracked coil is a failed coil. The next step is to check the resistance of the Primary and Secondary windings. The primary leads (where the spark plug wires go) should show a resistance between 1.53 to 2.07 ohms at room temperature. Heat the coils with a hair dryer and check the resistance hot - it should be at the upper end of the range. Perform a similar test on the Secondary (the spade connectors). The resistance should be between 12k to 18k ohms. Check these at room temperature and heated.
Let us know what you find BEFORE going off in your own direction. We want to be methodical.
I'm inclined to agree.I would have a shop come pick up the bike.
Further question please all,
Would a battery on it's way out cause all of this?
It's been on the charger all day and still only on light 2/5.
I know I've been cranking it a bit but even so.
No I don't have the equipmentCan you check the fuel pressure at the rail both at start up and running?
Should be a shrader valve there...
Probably 3 times what they say.How highly mixed is this fuel cleaner?