2007 Stolen, Electrical Problems

bpchura

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[MENTION=14552]moto[/MENTION]grio Thanks for the suggestions. I will pull all fuses tonight and post readings. I will also check and make sure I have the main fuse correct. I saw it was blown immediately and assumed that the one next to it was a spare but I can confirm. I do notice that the relay within the module I replaced does click when I turn the key on and then click again a few seconds later if thats any indication at all.
 

bpchura

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[MENTION=2579]Motogiro[/MENTION] more updates!
Was able to get battery voltage on the light green wire to the ignition relay assembly. All fuses have continuity. Main fuse at 30 and the rest under left pod good. Still no green signal from neutral. No crank with clutch in and stop switch on.

Weird note: could not for the life of me get correct readings on the new or old ignition relay assembly. Was trying to follow manual for continuity readings but couldnt get any continuity anywhere on the new or old unit. Could be doing it wrong? Both bad??
 
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Motogiro

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It could be both units are bad. Let me check schematic and get back to you. In the meantime find the neutral safety switch and disconnect the wire on it. Put the bike in neutral and put your DVM in 1x ohms position. The switch should read as a closed circuit to engine chassis. In gear it should show open circuit. I don't suspect this is the problem because the clutch switch should allow it to start even in gear.

Make sure you have +12 vdc on the red with black tracer wire.

Unfortunately a used part has a higher rate of non working possibility. When testing forward/reverse on diodes pick the diode position on your DVM
 
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bpchura

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I'm at work now and have access to a better DMM with a diode test function

Between pins 1/2, 1/3, and 1/4 I get no continuity one direction and detect a around .5V drop the other direction so I am assuming that is good. According to the test I am not getting continuity or non continuity but performing this diode check, they appear OK.
As for pins 3/5, I am getting nothing on both directions on the old unit and a similar .5V drop in one direction on the new unit so that leads to me believe the new unit is OK. Further, the lack of connection on the old unit between pin 3 and 5 is the connection between part 11 side stand switch and part 54 clutch switch. Unsure exactly how neutral light is having issues still but my logic on diode function is not the best.

I will check tonight the actual function of the neutral switch so we can rule that one out. I will also perfect checks on the side stand switch and clutch switch.

Were making progress! Thanks again for the help. When you put two brains together, its much less difficult to get stuck somewhere. Sometimes all it takes is another (usually more informed) brain to bounce ideas off of! :thumbup:
 
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Motogiro

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Sorry I had to remove your attachment. This is because Yamaha might put us into litigation because any printed material or copy is their property and we try to abide by those rules. It does make it harder for us to trouble shoot even though I believe a faster easier repair reflects positively on Yamaha.

Make note of the wire color codes on the plug. Disconnect the plug and do the tests. Positive 12 vdc to the red/black pin. Negative 12vdc to the blue/yellow pin and you should hear the relay click on. Now measure continuity (x1 ohms) from red wire pin (+meter wire) to red/blue wire pin (- meter lead) Continuity?
 

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WE HAVE IGNITION. After reading around on a couple other posts about people having issues with starting after attemped hotwire, I found that someone had issues with their neutral safety switch being fried by having direct 12v on it. I checked my switch and found that it would not give ground no matter gear position. I initially thought this was odd before posting here and tired grounding it. I got neutral light and crank but no fire. With the new module, grounding the neutral switch was enough to give me spark!

New neutral switch on the way, should be good to go.

Now I just need to put the time into removing all the purple graffiti all over my bike!:squid:



Thanks for the help [MENTION=2579]Motogiro[/MENTION], could not have done it without you.
 

Motogiro

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WE HAVE IGNITION. After reading around on a couple other posts about people having issues with starting after attemped hotwire, I found that someone had issues with their neutral safety switch being fried by having direct 12v on it. I checked my switch and found that it would not give ground no matter gear position. I initially thought this was odd before posting here and tired grounding it. I got neutral light and crank but no fire. With the new module, grounding the neutral switch was enough to give me spark!

New neutral switch on the way, should be good to go.

Now I just need to put the time into removing all the purple graffiti all over my bike!:squid:



Thanks for the help [MENTION=2579]Motogiro[/MENTION], could not have done it without you.
Great news! Yes I know that the neutral safety switch can get fried during theft. That's why I said to test it for continuity a few posts ago.
Are you hearing the fuel pump prime with the key on?
I would imagine the bike would still start pulling in the clutch. Test the clutch and sidestand switch for possible damage.

There are 2 relays in the module one for starter circuit and one for fuel pump and injectors.

Remember the people who stole your bike probably grew up watching that purple dinosour on tv as kids. That dinosaur did not teach those kids very much. Lol!

In fact it being now purple, it was probably Barney and Friends that stole your bike!

Sent from Moto's Motorola
 
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Motogiro

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Any news? Are you hearing the fuel pump prime when you turn the key to on, with the kill switch in the on position?
 
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