All this time I knew it might happen... and it did!!

[pulsar2]

Thanks for the suggestion LERecords, I just bought a Xena Disc lock + XZA-150 Cable. I still dont feel secure enough though, so I guess I will have to build my own security system with video surveillance just to have peace of mind.

Now that the dust settles on all the action, I am taking stock of all the fixes that I might need to do.

First, the ignition. Here are questions :
1. If I order OEM ignition set, does it come with the locks for the gas tank and the seat lock?
2. How easy is it to remove the broken ignition from the bike? [EDIT] - a few searches on the topic got me the answer for this [/EDIT]

On a different, disturbing note, the guy at the shop where I got the locks said his buddy's bike got stolen just this morning!! Gives me the creeps that I might be in for another strike!!!

 

[FZ09Bandit]

Obviously you still have your moto keys considering he busted the lock so no. The new ignition key will be different. Use your old key for your tank and helmet clip.

I wouldn't report it unless its way past your deductible. And YES SUE THE SORRY BASTARD! You will eventually be paid even if its with his taxes trust me.

 

[pulsar2]

Just back from a thorough check of the damages.The way things were broken was interesting.

The broken ignition:

The main lock barrel is in a good condition. It looks like the handle lock was forced open - probably leveraging the handlebar, bending the left side of the handle in the process. When seen from below, all the metal tabs inside the key barrel that push onto the lock pin are broken. Once it opened, he probably pushed it to the back roads from the broken fence just 20 or so yards from where the bike was parked. The bottom of the ignition lock was then broken using hammer/screwdriver - just breaking off the bottom part that holds the electrical contacts.

How did he ride the bike?

Quite interesting as well. The Red wire in the electrical contact is cut off and a new wire was connected to it from the battery positive. Ofcourse, all this was done carefully - lifting the tank up, and securely connecting the new wire. The only carelessness was to lose one of the tank bolts. Then, he just put the electrical commutator that turns the bike ON - top of the electrical contact and taped it. Presto - instant - always on ignition!!!

Also, the cable lock I had put on the handlebar to hold the helmets was kept under the seat!!! The seat lock itself was not broken, but the small plastic tab that holds the from of the seat was forced open - creating just enough clearance to access the stuff under it.

I remember having filled the tank before I had parked, and today, it looks like its almost empty. Maybe the guy wanted a Joy ride till the fuel went down before chopping it up!!! Maybe that's what saved it!!!

Probably I can get a cheap lock from eBay and swap the barrel to keep it original!! Till then, I guess I am going to use the "thief" mod to keep it moving.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The ignition switch is held to the upper triple clamp with 2, tamper resistant bolts. The upper triple needs to unbolt and flip over so you have access to the bolts.

Actually with the switch destroyed, you can likely put a vise grip on the 2 bolts and spin them out.

If not enough room, you normally center punch those 2 bolts and drill until the head of the bolt heads are gone. Remove the switch and slid it off. The remove the bolts with a vise grip (you'll need two new ones-I'd get the same size but in SS, maybe allen heads). You will have to dig under the tank, and find where it connects (I don't know where), just follow the wires from the harness.

Save the lock cylinder if its not damaged. I know it can be re-keyed, or better yet use your undamaged lock cylinder in the new assembly.

I know it can be done as certain year FJR's had a bad ignition switch and needed replacement (very similar to the FZ). They initially wouldn't re-key it, but with some bitching, Yamaha allowed the dealers do it. You already have the lock cylinder, just a matter of changing them out.

Some locktite on the bolts that hold in the ignition switch wouldn't be a bad idea either...

 

[pulsar2]

Anybody knows if the Red wire is routed through any fuse to the battery? When I checked, it reads only 2-3V on it.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Anybody knows if the Red wire is routed through any fuse to the battery? When I checked, it reads only 2-3V on it.

I don't know, but I wouldn't think so.

I'd put my money thats the current (no pun intended) voltage of your battery. A volt meter across the terminals of the battery would confirm this (or not).


Being the bike probably sat in the tow lot for a day or more, it was probably still powered up and ran the battery down...

 

[pulsar2]

I don't know, but I wouldn't think so.

I'd put my money thats the current (no pun intended) voltage of your battery. A volt meter across the terminals of the battery would confirm this (or not).


Being the bike probably sat in the tow lot for a day or more, it was probably still powered up and ran the battery down...

The battery is good. The Red wire is cut at the ignition, and a new wire was connected directly to the battery by the thief to ride the bike. I tested by starting the bike before removing it.

The low voltage on it makes me believe it would have gone through some fuse. If I could know what fuses are connected to the ignition, it will help finding the fault. Hope nothing else is damaged electrically.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The battery is good. The Red wire is cut at the ignition, and a new wire was connected directly to the battery by the thief to ride the bike. I tested by starting the bike before removing it.

The low voltage on it makes me believe it would have gone through some fuse. If I could know what fuses are connected to the ignition, it will help finding the fault. Hope nothing else is damaged electrically.

Well, if you ground it, I bet you blow a fuse and will know where it goes. HOPEFULLY, it won't hurt anything else. Might be to keep the settings on the dash(clock, re-setable odometer, etc)

PM Cliff, Motogiro, he'd be able to figure it out, no doubt!

 

[Motogiro]

The ignition switch brings power from the red wire to 3 wires that are color coded brown with a blue tracer, blue with a black tracer, and black with a red tracer. The brown with blue tracer feeds four separately fused circuits.

If there is no voltage at the red wire I would suspect the main fuse on top of the battery. Its a 30 amp fuse. The main fuse (30 amp) also feeds another fuse that feeds the starter. Check your main fuse and then check all your other fuses.

 

[pulsar2]

Thanks Cliff!! It was the fuse that was blown. Replaced the fuse and the bike started up without any problem.

And finally with a lot of help and a good Fz6R handlebar from Joe (motojoe122), the bike is almost back its original self - except for a few scratches and broken ignition key. Its the second time he has been of help - previously he helped me get the stock signals that helped get through inspection. Feels great to have met all the helpful folk in this forum!!

 

[sxty8goats]

I park my bike right near the entrance of my apartment, in an open parking lot. It is always covered(hmm...wonder what happened to that cover now). Except for the stock handle lock, there were no other locks on it to prevent theft. I felt it was in a secure enough place since it is right near the entrance where most people see it throughout the day.

What I feel might have prevented this :
- A separate lock - disc/through the wheel.
- An alarm - maybe the ones built into the lock .

I am planning to put both(disc lock + alarm) as soon I get the motorcycle back.

Ironically, I am designing one such security system, which should alert me if anyone moves my bike, and take pictures/record video whenever it is triggered. I always felt uneasy when I am out of town, leaving the bike in a open parking lot. This incident provides me the push to finish the project sooner now.

I bolted a chunk of metal to the pavement to form a U that I can pass a chain through. Then I run that through my rear wheel. If I'm riding and have to leave it in a sketchy area, I wrap the cable through the tire, through the rear set mounts and over the seat. It is a 1/2" thick braided cable with a combo lock. Coils up and fits in my rear bag. A big huge "FU" to who ever might be thinking of a joyride.

 

[WolfwoodFz6]

holy big picture.. this is the lock that i have and i recommend it to everyone!! if someone wants it bad enough, sure they will figure a way.. but what a deterrent!!!

again glad you got the bike back.. and yea i would be at this douches hearing.. i wander if you can sue him for the cost to fix the bike.. considering he did steal it!! :thumbup:

My bike isn't even with me atm. Its safely locked in my friends garage until i get the security for it first. I live in an apartment so this was my first concern after getting the bike. I have a chain and brake lock /w alarm on the way as i post this. This is the chain i ordered... because im that paranoid.

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0041C91JY/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1"]Kryptonite New York Legend[/ame]
(dont know why its saying it twice)

I also have a cover. I have an assigned carport, so i can chain it to a 4x4 post, and the car port is lit, and my spot is facing my bedroom window. I'm toying with the idea of setting up a camera pointing at it as well.

Now granted, i live in a relatively small town, but my paranoia is pretty high about stuff being taken from me, due to past experiences.

 

[250lemans]

Here is the full story of the capture :

Motorcyclist on stolen bike leads police on chase - Cecil Daily: Local News

After talking to the officer, I came to know that the suspect was earlier spotted by him during off duty hours the previous day riding my bike wearing a motocross helmet. This made him suspicious, but he did not think of it much at that time. So the bike was stolen on wednesday, and the thief rode it all the time in plain view, to be caught only because of running a red light!!!

*i'll have to watch myself i ride with my dirt helmet when i don't want to ride with the expensive shoei around town on short rides and you can sip your ice coffee with it*

 

[FinalImpact]

This is from a thread of mine when I powder coated the triple. Had to remove the ignition but in my case to leave it on the bike.

The security bolts are Yama PN: 90109-08172
bolts are aprox: 22 mm long X 8mm O.D. not sure on the pitch.

Here is good way to hold the triple for drilling it. Takes just one person.

Bottom line; Remove the bars, Remove the nut (1-1/16" socket works fine), loosen the top pinch bolts, remove the cable holder once the triple is loose and WALLA - Flip it over and secure it too the fork leg. It is now stable for drilling or grinding or punching. Pick your battle. I didn't want sparks flying or I would have slotted it. There is ample room to slot and NOT cut into the triple. Also the harness is long enough to flip and secure it.

Fork Stanchion Holding Triple for drilling process:

DRILL IT! NOTE: there are vent holes in the bottom of the switch. I covered them with tape before drilling the second bolt out. Those chips don't belong in the switch!

DONE! Notice Magnet in the paper bag collecting chips!

Now to powder coat.. .. ..

 

[motojoe122]

*i'll have to watch myself i ride with my dirt helmet when i don't want to ride with the expensive shoei around town on short rides and you can sip your ice coffee with it*

Ummm.....ok?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

This is from a thread of mine when I powder coated the triple. Had to remove the ignition but in my case to leave it on the bike.

The security bolts are Yama PN: 90109-08172
bolts are aprox: 22 mm long X 8mm O.D. not sure on the pitch.

You'll have the old bolts and the upper triple in hand to check thread pitch if you go with aftermarket bolts

Replacing with torx or allen head bolts is an option (with some locktite). The ignition switch will be just as accessable as before, not much you can do with that...

Pulsar2, if you can secure the front wheel (or rear) to a carport pole or other stationary object, (with the cable lock LERecords posted) you should be fine..

Yours was a crime of opportunity...

 

[pulsar2]

Pulsar2, if you can secure the front wheel (or rear) to a carport pole or other stationary object, (with the cable lock LERecords posted) you should be fine..

Yours was a crime of opportunity...

Unfortunately, our parking lot does not have anything to secure the bike to. There are a few more motorcycles in our Apartment block, I will see if I can get them together and ask the Rental office to provide a Tethering port near the apartments for motorcycles/bicycles . As of now, hope the Xena Disc lock + Alarm will keep it safe.

One question for folks who have similar alarm setup : will the alarm trigger during a storm? I have the bike covered, and there very less chances of the lock/alarm getting wet, but will it trigger due to wind?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Unfortunately, our parking lot does not have anything to secure the bike to. There are a few more motorcycles in our Apartment block, I will see if I can get them together and ask the Rental office to provide a Tethering port near the apartments for motorcycles/bicycles . As of now, hope the Xena Disc lock + Alarm will keep it safe.

One question for folks who have similar alarm setup : will the alarm trigger during a storm? I have the bike covered, and there very less chances of the lock/alarm getting wet, but will it trigger due to wind?

It depends on the alarm you get.

A good Scorpion alarm is adjustable, has perimeter alarms, motion alarms, up to approx 1/2 mile owner notification signal, etc. So you can set it for whatever you want.. Also, when it activates, besides screaming, it flashes all your lights(not the headlight). (I had one I moved between my FJR and Goldwing for road trips)..

There's also a disc lock (usually bright yellow) that's battery powered and will scream if the bikes moved

 

[FinalImpact]

Apartment life:
This doesn't do much when you're away but a plate you can park a car tire on AND run a cable lock through would help. If nothing else it would be huge PITA to leave with plate to the wheel!

As for the OEM anti-theft bolts on the lock, once torqued to spec the head shears off leaving nothing to extract the bolt with hence the reason mine was drilled out. With the lock off, vise grip the shank and remove the bolts.

If you opt for a hardware store SS socket cap bolt, the least you can do is fill the socket cap with epoxy or silicone to deter future threats. Its slow to get out!