Battery Issues + Jurky power delivery

[rock21586]

Here is the problem I had earlier with my bike. I was away for a month so my bike was just sitting in my apartment complex. Once I was back, I started the bike which started it in two tries.I thought bike is fine no issues with bike. I go to my bike after 2 weeks and the bike would not start. It started in 4th try. I went to costco to fill the gas up which is about 1.2 miles from my home. Once I was done the bike would not start I tried a lot, but it just did not. I dragged the bike home. Took the battery out, bought the battery charger and put the battery in and now the bike started right up.

Today I took the bike for a spin which was after two days of putting the battery in. The bike starts right up.

The problem with the bike is that, the power delivery is very jurky. It seems like it just does not want to go froward and suddenly it gets the boost (this is in 1-2 gears). This behaviour happens in 4-5 gears too. What could be the issue?

Bike: 2005 Yamaha FZ6
Miles: 21k
Dynojet Power commander.

 

[FinalImpact]

Fuel is newer. But did the tank sit empty for a period of time (months)? If so, water can condense and being heavier than fuel, is the first thing sucked up...

If it idles fine but wont accelerate, its likely not water. But now it may be a matter of rust in the tank causing other issues like fuel starvation...

Can you cruise at 7000 rpm and hold the throttle steady. If yes to both steady hand and fixed RPM, its less likely to be fuel quantity issues.

This now leads to fuel and spark quality...
Use that fuel in another vehicle and put the best fuel in you can afford along with a proper dose of Fuel cleaner. Chevron Techron comes to mind.

If no help; time to look at ignition which easy if you have the time. What is your skill level; can you turn a wrench?

 

[rock21586]

- Tank was not completely empty. There was some fuel left in it.
- I have not tried cruising at 7000RPM but once I am in last gear it is steady, not jumpy. It is jumpy when I change gears and want to accelerate quicker.
- Yes,I can wrench. Please let me know how to look at ignition or some link which I can follow.
Thanks for quick reply.

 

[Torsti]

Fuel pump? Maybe not functioning properly.

 

[rock21586]

Do I have to unhook the tank and check or is there some other way to do it?

 

[FinalImpact]

Need to confirm pressure and volume and that the hose has no kinks.

Pressure 36 PSI as tested at the hose end.
FSM does not list a volume specification. The safest test is to remove the pump, submerge it in water, fit a T and pressure gauge, on the open end of the T leave some kind of restriction which is say 1/8" in diameter and power the pump on w 12.7v. It should blast a steady stream and maintain 36 PSI.

Do search on pressure testing. Several threads exist with lots of info...

 

[Pittmania]

Have your battery tested. I had similar issues with jerky power, although it was more like at constant RPM it just felt a little jerky. Still started, just not eagerly like it does with a fresh battery.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Fully charge the battery and get it load tested. (rule that out)

Also, check with a volt meter what voltage your getting at the battery when running. It should be at least 13 idling up to about 14 volts @ 5 K RPM's.

With a partially full tank left for awhile, I'd siphon most of it out, then pull and flip the tank getting out everything you can
(into a container so you can see if there's any rust or crap coming out. if any seen, I'd pull the fuel pump, and get a good look inside the tank.

The tank WILL rust INSIDE when left partially full and crap can make its way to the pump filter...

View with the pump out:


A badly clogged fuel filter:



Clips to move to remove the pump from the tank (if needed):

 

[rock21586]

Thanks guys I will get my battery load tested first.
My battery definitely does not idle at 14.
Thanks Scott for detailed explanation with pics.

 

[FinalImpact]

Idle wont be at 14v...
13 or so but its very dependent on state of charge and load. I.e. dual headlights and a low state of charge could easily land it at 12.6 v or so......
Expect 12.95v after a long ride and it sits for hours. 13.8 to 14.4v @ 2500 rpm.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Here's a video of my bike with an old battery showing RPM's vs voltages from a cold start up, at different RPM's.

It never hits 14, but you can get the idea what you should be getting.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/127092600@N08/


BTW, the volt meter in the video, is attached thru a side Powerlet (you can see on the video) with the DUAL Headlight mod ON(also visible). .

 

[dbldutch02]

A stupidly simple thing worth doing is to lube the twist grip and the throttle cables. If they're a bit slack and dry it makes for horrible power delivery (been there!)

 

[rock21586]

So I went to Autozone today, but they did could not do load test on my battery. They gave some reason which I did not get it.
Anyways but tested the voltage and it was coming out to be 0.96v which mean battery is almost dead. But before removing the battery from my bike I started the bike and it started right up. So I don't know what is happening.
Tomorrow I may buy a new battery and see what is what.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

They probably didn't load test it as it has to be FULLY CHARGED.

If you can jump start the bike from a NON running auto, 12 volts, (or push start)
you can check with a volt meter (as in my video) what the bikes electrical system is putting out.

You can leave it hooked up to the auto battery while testing, (as the auto battery will be about 12.8 volts)

Your system will/SHOULD be putting out more than that..

Please post back what you find...

 

[Motogiro]

It's a good idea to start with a fully charged battery that has been load tested. This helps insure that the internal resistance of the battery is not low. When you test the charging system voltage with a battery that has a low charge, the internal resistance the battery represents to the system is low which loads the bike's charging system. When the system is loaded it may not give you the expected voltage of 13.5 to 14 volts. That does not mean the charging system is faulty if you get a lower voltage than the expected 13.5-14 vdc. Make sure the battery is fully charged and then load tested for depth of charge before expecting the proper voltage reading.
The optimal way the charging system should be checked would be to measure current(amperage) and voltage at the same time.

 

[rock21586]

So guys I have missed one important information about the bike. my bike has a Dynojet power commander. I dont know if that would make any difference
.
I went to Autozone, Walmart and O'Reilly Auto Parts but none of them have my battery which is 12B-4. I rode my bike last week for over an hour and it did not stall on me. although I have two problems now

1. It does not feel powerful at all, like it take lot of efforts to give me power, which was not the case before this battery debacle happened.
2. When I am at high speed around 40-50 and and try to sloe down it some times misfires, or it does something which sounds like misfire. Like it misses a fire in between.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Did you get your battery Load tested???

What is your running voltage to the battery, idling up to 5K RPM's??

 

[rock21586]

HI
Here are my readings
Everything off -> 13.07v
Key in turn on -> 12.61v
Key out ->12.89v
Key in and Ignition ->14.33v

I have updaload the video at the follwing link here to show you whats the reading of the battery under load.
https://youtu.be/aYXHaHm-t-M

Also power is still jurky.
Last weekend I drove it around for about an hour or so and I felt as the end of the ride it was loosing the power, felt like it would just die in between.

 

[FinalImpact]

HI
Here are my readings
Everything off -> 13.07v
Key in turn on -> 12.61v
Key out ->12.89v
Key in and Ignition ->14.33v

I have updaload the video at the follwing link here to show you whats the reading of the battery under load.
https://youtu.be/aYXHaHm-t-M

Also power is still jurky.
Last weekend I drove it around for about an hour or so and I felt as the end of the ride it was loosing the power, felt like it would just die in between.

13.00v - after 4hrs to cool and balance.
12.6v key on
11.4v cranking
Cold idle picture after sitting for 3mo

Battery was 6 y/old at the time!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I thought I saw 9 volts cranking over which is a bit on the low side, (spun over very quick!).

My old battery went down as low as 8 volts but still spun quickly (I was losing dash lights)

I gather you DID NOT ACTUAL LOAD TEST the battery, just used the starter??? (As you haven't mentioned it).


**Until that's ACTUALLY done and the battery ruled out, you may be very well chasing your tail**.

BTW, all the stores you went to would have performed the test on your fully charged battery, for free yet...

Until then....


You may want to un-plug your power commander and see if that's the issue, start with the basics, BATTERY, add on fuel management..