Battery (landport?) question

[Cortez]

Mkay, I'm 500 miles from home, my battery died.

I have access to tools, found a video how to replace the battery, just wondering
if anyone knows the difference between the Landport YT12B-4 and
Landport YT12B-BS batteries?

Both are same size, voltage, capacity and +/- location, yet one site
recommends the first one, and the landport PDF on official web says
the other one.

Anything else I need to know when replacing the battery?
I never did ANY work on the bike before, and of course, the fuel tank
is absolutely full at the moment.

Thanks.

EDIT: Just spoke to a local dealer who said the BS is replaced by the B-4
and that they're the same, he doesn't have either on stock so I'm not
suspecting any BS, and he can have the battery here in 24h. That's good.

 

[Cortez]

I'm not familiar with the brand name but the Yuasa OEM battery I just bought, the model # is: YT12B-BS.

IMO, I'd go with that or have the dealer call the company and see specifically what the difference is..

I've used LP batteries before, it lasted about 70% of the original Yuasa on
my Kawasaki and was 1/3 the price.

Both BS and B-4 are same dimensions, 12V, 11Ah, and positive terminal
on the same side, as far as I can see the B-4 goes into the YZF-R1 too.

Anyways, it should be good.
I'm unemployed now, so, counting my pennies, the Yuasa costs $160
here, and the LP is $60, I'm lucky to find anything here actually.

No Yamaha dealer in this town.

 

[Cortez]

what Year bike, I'm on their web site?

It's a 2008, LP web site lists the same battery for 2004-2010 so it
doesn't matter.

 

[oaks]

The original was GS-Yuasa GT12B-4 and the replacement many get is Yuasa YT12B-BS, so I'd think either of those Landports will work. (I've noticed that first letter varies by manufacturer. Probably not significant.)

 

[Cortez]

The original was GS-Yuasa GT12B-4 and the replacement many get is Yuasa YT12B-BS, so I'd think either of those Landports will work. (I've noticed that first letter varies by manufacturer. Probably not significant.)

After posting I've found some ebay listings which list both batteries (LP)
as the same thing, so yeah, either will probably work.

There's a 2 lbs difference in weight (B-4 is heavier) and charging current
is different (Regular charge current), which is 1,25A for the BS and 1,1A
for the B-4.

That's probably the only significant difference, and maybe a reason why to
get a BS if available, but the guy in the shop looked at the catalogue, saw
that they got no BS available and on the same screen had the B-4 as a
recommended replacement.

I'd put more thought and cash into it if I was at home, but I need to safely
GET home in a few days so, whatever I get the fastest is what I'll buy,
and that'll be the B-4.

I'll report back here if I run into any issues and/or if the battery dies soon.

 

[Cortez]

The original was GS-Yuasa GT12B-4 and the replacement many get is Yuasa YT12B-BS, so I'd think either of those Landports will work. (I've noticed that first letter varies by manufacturer. Probably not significant.)

I got the battery out, yep, it's still the original inside from 2008. (didn't know
since I'm the 3rd owner of the bike), and it's the 12B-4, not the BS, just like
your first picture.

I figured it's 11Ah like the replacements but it's "only" 10Ah.
The size matches both Landport replacements.

 

[FinalImpact]

As a rule of thumb - disconnect the NEGATIVE first and RECONNECT IT LAST!

It reduces the risk of shorting the positive to ground and melting, burning, throwing sparks, damaging stuff.

IIRC you'll need to push and hold the two set buttons to reset your clock too.

 

[Motogiro]

I'm wondering if the internal technology is different because you say the big difference seems to be weight. The difference might be one is glass mat and the other is lead acid? Also, is there a cold cranking amp (CCA) rating for these batteries that might shed light?

 

[Motogiro]

As a rule of thumb - disconnect the NEGATIVE first and RECONNECT IT LAST!

It reduces the risk of shorting the positive to ground and melting, burning, throwing sparks, damaging stuff.

IIRC you'll need to push and hold the two set buttons to reset your clock too.

Also it never hurts to wear safety eye ware! Two obvious reasons are batteries are combustible and they are made of acid.

 

[Cortez]

As a rule of thumb - disconnect the NEGATIVE first and RECONNECT IT LAST!

It reduces the risk of shorting the positive to ground and melting, burning, throwing sparks, damaging stuff.

IIRC you'll need to push and hold the two set buttons to reset your clock too.

Ok, thanks, I got the order in which to connect and disconnect from a YT video
of a battery swap on the FZ6 and I forgot about the clock, no biggie.

Also, I had some extra junk over the battery because of ABS (fuses and wires)
that had to be removed.

 

[Cortez]

I'm wondering if the internal technology is different because you say the big difference seems to be weight. The difference might be one is glass mat and the other is lead acid? Also, is there a cold cranking amp (CCA) rating for these batteries that might shed light?

Well something is obviously different since they make both.

You can compare yourself here:
http://www.landportbv.com/media/catalogues/Landport_2013_compleet.pdf

Easiest to find using CTRL+F then typing in the model names.
FZ6 search returns just the BS, the B-4 is for R1 and some other bikes
according to that PDF.