Beyond my repair - Taking her to shop (Advice Needed)

[cmantis]

So I went to take my bike in to work so I could do the brake caliper rebuild with new seals when I noticed that the front left fork was leaking. It would have been nice to find this two weeks ago before everyone was taking their bikes in for tune ups but I did happen to find a good very local mechanic. He agreed to see me (when he can) but we met up today and he made some parts suggestions for me to order. I was hoping to run this by you guys to make sure I am not missing anything or you have alternative recommendations. First the pictures:

I already got all the parts for the brakes and here is what he told me to order for the forks:

• Fork Seals
• Dust Caps (wipers)
• Bolts for Fork Slider to Damper
• Oil <--- Any suggestions here on what weight? I do have racetechs in the forks?
• Tires - He also suggested new tires after asking how many miles I planned to ride this season (The date on the rear is 01/08)

What do you fine folks think? For tires (if you recommend changing them) I was thinking Pilot Road 4's - thoughts, opinions, rants, etc welcome.

Thanks in advance.

 

[cmantis]

Here is the fiche:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I was hoping to run this by you guys to make sure I am not missing anything or you have alternative recommendations.

I already got all the parts for the brakes and here is what he told me to order for the forks:

• Fork Seals
• Dust Caps (wipers)
• Bolts for Fork Slider to Damper
• Oil <--- Any suggestions here on what weight? I do have racetechs in the forks?
• Tires - He also suggested new tires after asking how many miles I planned to ride this season (The date on the rear is 01/08)

What do you fine folks think? For tires (if you recommend changing them) I was thinking Pilot Road 4's - thoughts, opinions, rants, etc welcome.

Thanks in advance.

The bottom bolts should be fine however the YAMAHA shop manual calls for new "washers" (#'s 16 and 36) that go with those bolts. (see below parts fisch).

10 wt Maxima oil should be fine.

I've been bery happy with my Michelin PR2 on the front, (about 15,000 miles now but about 3/4 worn down). I have a PR3 on the back, seems ok, no experiance with the PR4. Longest, best wearing tire I've ever owned...

You do have a bit of cracking inside the treads, not a bad idea, especially with the age to change them out..

It'd be a good idea to go to the Michelin web site (if your interested) and see the advantage of one tire over the other (besides others real life input).

 

[cmantis]

I have the pr2s now. Figure maybe 4s would be nice upgrade. Seem to run like $310. My mechanic suggested the bolts saying probably not needed but if they are having them will save headaches. What do I need for where the leak is? My friend suggested new tubes (?) But not sure thats a needed expense.

While I have a real mechanic feeling her up anything else I should check or have done to her?

 

[VEGASRIDER]

New tires for sure. They are old and has lost it's grip. While you are getting new tires, make sure you or they check your brake pads, they could be worn to a point where it also needs to be replaced.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

To add to the above, I would think the mechanic would check the brake pads for oil impregnation.

Brake cleaner may clean them but not sure about if thier oil soaked...

Unless your tubes are bent or nicked, pitted, chrome peeling, there's nothing wrong with them, NEW oil and dust seals will solve the problem.

If the shop doesn't have the bike yet, PLEASE WASH IT. There's nothing more a mechainic hates than a nasty bike getting filthy just rolling it in the gargae.. Soap and water, he'd appreciate it.

Just as a side note, at least on my old Bridgestones, the more "edge/treads" you have crossing (where it would touch the road), as the tire wears, you get more cupping.

I have a PR3 on the rear of mine (picked up a "KEY" in the old PR2-very un-repairable) and with all the treads, it is a PIA checking the tire for small nails, etc (routine maintainance). As for longevity and cupping on these, I haven't had them long enough.

Depending on if your front brake seals have ever been replaced, you may want to inquire as to re-building/re-sealing them.. Yamaha recommends new brake seal replacement EVERY TWO YEARS. 4-5 years is about the max life on the seals before they start sticking/pads dragging.

 

[FinalImpact]

So I went to take my bike in to work so I could do the brake caliper rebuild with new seals when I noticed that the front left fork was leaking. It would have been nice to find this two weeks ago before everyone was taking their bikes in for tune ups but I did happen to find a good very local mechanic. He agreed to see me (when he can) but we met up today and he made some parts suggestions for me to order. I was hoping to run this by you guys to make sure I am not missing anything or you have alternative recommendations. First the pictures:

I already got all the parts for the brakes and here is what he told me to order for the forks:

• Fork Seals
• Dust Caps (wipers)
• Bolts for Fork Slider to Damper
• Oil <--- Any suggestions here on what weight? I do have racetechs in the forks?
• Tires - He also suggested new tires after asking how many miles I planned to ride this season (The date on the rear is 01/08)

What do you fine folks think? For tires (if you recommend changing them) I was thinking Pilot Road 4's - thoughts, opinions, rants, etc welcome.

Thanks in advance.

I was going to say that leak didn't happen over night its been doing that for a many miles. Q? are those actual scratches/gouges in the stanchion tube? If so, a very limited amount of time with 1800 and 2400 wet dry sand paper with soap and water solution may get some more life from those tubes. We are talking just a few vertical strokes once apart to remove the sharp edges that can damage seals... The paper cut into 10" X 2" strips, forming a 360 degree overlapping circle - make about 4 strokes with the lower grit and then repeat with higher 22-2400. Although some may use >2800 grit.

I posted a fork oil chart in another thread as not all oils are the same. An easy pike to compare applies to applies is to buy Yamaha fork oil. 10wt would be good starting point. Nothing lower than 7.5 or higher than 15.

If it comes down to replacing stanchion tubes, spend your money and get R6/R6S forks. The conversion is $350 if the forks can go in as is with an oil change.