Bike just died on me. Throttle cutting out and now no start

ctbandit

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TL;DR : Throttle was cutting in and out and now the bike is dead and won't even start. Need ideas. More detail below.



So at the end of a my first ride of the year I was almost home when the throttle cut out on me (felt like I had just completely closed the throttle) even though I was on throttle, then came back, then cut out again. And then finally the engine died. I started it again while rolling and made it home.

Chocked it up to old gas and tried to go out again a couple weeks ago. Was running fine until about 30 minutes in, then again I got some wonky throttle. It would drop off, then not respond to throttle inputs, and then all of a sudden come back. I turned around and headed home and no issue for the 30 minutes I rode home.

Today I get geared up and turn the bike on but it wont stay running. It shuts off after a minute. Not like it sputters or anything, just like someone turned the switch off. I adjusted the idle up from 1150rpm to 1320 rpm and it stayed running so I went out to test it.

After 10 minutes it starts again throttle cuts out, comes back randomly, and sometimes goes completely unresponsive. Start to head home and I get close to home when the throttle cuts out again but this time doesn't come back and I roll to a stop and the engine shuts off. It fires up once or twice then dies again after a few seconds. Finally it won't fire at all. I don't hear the pump priming when turning the key on either.

Did the TPS diagnostic and its 16 at closed and 101 at open. I honestly am not sure that's it, and I don't want to order the part if that's not my issue. I have to run out tonight but plan on pulling things apart tomorrow to see if there's anything obvious. I opened the kill switch housing and nothing looked off. No corrosion, everything seems to operate fine.

Any ideas???? :confused::confused:
 

OZXJR

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It does sound a lot like the kill switch, try bypassing it and see if that works.

I did have a similar problem once on an gpz1000rx many years ago and that was the ignition module failing,having 120hp cutting in and out in traffic was not fun !
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Plus 1 ^^^.

Are the gauges staying on, just the engine turning on and off randomly?

You may be able to get it (when its running good) to act up by getly manipulating the kill switch. Unless you checked the actual connections inside and checked the spring inside, just looking at the switch means nothing.


If it is, I agree, hardwire or jump the Red kill switch;

Here's a link tha should help;

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-electrical/48311-run-switch-faulty-2.html?highlight=kill+switch
 

ctbandit

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Plus 1 ^^^.

Are the gauges staying on, just the engine turning on and off randomly?

You may be able to get it (when its running good) to act up by getly manipulating the kill switch. Unless you checked the actual connections inside and checked the spring inside, just looking at the switch means nothing.


If it is, I agree, hardwire or jump the Red kill switch;

Here's a link tha should help;

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-electrical/48311-run-switch-faulty-2.html?highlight=kill+switch

I opened the switch gear and the connections looked fine but I'm going to try to jump the switch and see if that helps. The gauges do stay on. After died last time turning the kill switch or key didn't make a difference, when I thumbed the starter nothing happened.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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I opened the switch gear and the connections looked fine but I'm going to try to jump the switch and see if that helps. The gauges do stay on. After died last time turning the kill switch or key didn't make a difference, when I thumbed the starter nothing happened.

That does indeed sound like a kill switch malfunction..

Please post back how it goes and good luck

Just curious, do you use that switch often?
 

ctbandit

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That does indeed sound like a kill switch malfunction..

Please post back how it goes and good luck

Aaaaand that fixed it. After reading through this and this (thanks for the link) I was pretty sure that was it. Thanks for the help folks!!

Went out and bypassed the switch and sure as **** it fired right up and ran fine. I did take the switch completely apart and the contacts did have some tiny dark spots. I sanded them a bit and I'll probably wire them back in line later on, but I wanted to run without it to be sure that was the issue.


Just curious, do you use that switch often?
I use it every ride. I realized even more not having it. My routine is I come to a stop and immediately hit the switch. Then I go about getting my gear off and everything before pulling the key to off and out.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Aaaaand that fixed it. After reading through this and this (thanks for the link) I was pretty sure that was it. Thanks for the help folks!!

Went out and bypassed the switch and sure as **** it fired right up and ran fine. I did take the switch completely apart and the contacts did have some tiny dark spots. I sanded them a bit and I'll probably wire them back in line later on, but I wanted to run without it to be sure that was the issue.



I use it every ride. I realized even more not having it. My routine is I come to a stop and immediately hit the switch. Then I go about getting my gear off and everything before pulling the key to off and out.


Congrates!!! :thumbup:

It doesn't take much for it to act up. It also seems the more you use it, the more likely it will fail over time...

Its very rare I use it. Next time I have the battery out, I'll probably hot wire it just beyond the main harness. One less thing to fail..
 

ctbandit

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This is how the contacts looked before cleaning them up. Obviously there was something happening there with the black burns. Doesn't take much though..

IGJyIwp2a3x08y7hOUHsy1rBSsXL5YMLn4NbnmxYUf8
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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That contact point is really bad. I don't know how it ran that long...


Here's a pic of the contacts of a starter relay that failed on my Yamaha F150 outboard;



And that's on a 2300cc, 4 banger, 150 HP engine
 
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