Bikemaster Daytona Handlebars?

TxAg2015

New Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2016
Messages
28
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Texas
Visit site
Sorry for yet another handlebar thread, but I could only find a couple of really old posts that mentioned these particular bars.
As mentioned many times on this forum, the sweep angle of the stock bars is really bad for long distance riding. I'm getting ready for a big trip in a couple of weeks and trying to get this bike as comfortable as possible. I know the FZ1 bars are a popular swap, but I want as much of a sport touring feel as possible (FJ-09 would probably be my ideal bar position).

So I'm looking at these bars: Bike Master Daytona Handlebars - RevZilla
They're cheap and they're steel, not aluminium, so hopefully not as bad on vibrations, and from the measurements it looks like they're about half the sweep and ~2" taller than stock. My question is whether I'll have to drill them out to fit the controls on. Do the control boxes have locator pegs on them or do they just clamp down on the bar by friction? For those of you who have had these or other aftermarket bars, how involved was the installation of the controls?
Also, are there any good adapters that would let me put threaded bar ends on, or would I be forced to buy new unthreaded ones?
Thanks!
 

Erci

Howie Mandel's evil twin
Moderator
Elite Member
Joined
Apr 28, 2009
Messages
7,229
Reaction score
126
Points
63
Location
Pittsford, VT
Visit site
There are 2 ways to handle mounting control on undrilled bar.
1. Drill the bar :) .. or
2. Grind off the plastic tabs on controls (this was the route I took.. super simple and controls stay in place just fine).

However, the bigger problem you are likely to run into is the cable length. There's a good chance stock cables will not be long enough when you add that much rise.
Bar ends will be an issue as well. You may be able to find threaded inserts, but it will likely be easier to go with aftermarket ends.. which are expensive, if you want steel (not alu).

Otherwise, the process is pretty simple. I would look into FZ6R bar (same rise as FZ6, but less back sweep) and a 1" up/bk risers.
 

TxAg2015

New Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2016
Messages
28
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Texas
Visit site
Ok thanks. I'm torn on that, but I'd probably end up grinding the tabs off.
Someone on this forum several years ago said they fit these bars with like 1.5" risers, so I'm assuming I could fit them without risers just fine, but we'll see.
EDIT: This is thread I was referencing: http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-mods/33916-sw-motech-barbacks-bikemaster-daytona.html

I guess the FZ6R bars would have the peg holes for the controls though, so that's an interesting thought.
I'm also having vibration problems, so I wouldn't be terribly opposed to getting the HVMP extra heavy ends with a new bar...

Thanks for the info, that's exactly what I needed to know!
 
Last edited:

Erci

Howie Mandel's evil twin
Moderator
Elite Member
Joined
Apr 28, 2009
Messages
7,229
Reaction score
126
Points
63
Location
Pittsford, VT
Visit site
Ok thanks. I'm torn on that, but I'd probably end up grinding the tabs off.
Someone on this forum several years ago said they fit these bars with like 1.5" risers, so I'm assuming I could fit them without risers just fine, but we'll see.
EDIT: This is thread I was referencing: http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-mods/33916-sw-motech-barbacks-bikemaster-daytona.html

I guess the FZ6R bars would have the peg holes for the controls though, so that's an interesting thought.
I'm also having vibration problems, so I wouldn't be terribly opposed to getting the HVMP extra heavy ends with a new bar...

Thanks for the info, that's exactly what I needed to know!

Did not realize FZ6 cables are that long.. nice! And yes.. HVMP bar ends are an excellent upgrade! I had them on my FZ6 and have been using them for several years on my FZ1 too.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6
Site Supporter
Joined
Feb 7, 2009
Messages
12,531
Reaction score
1,176
Points
113
Location
Cape Coral, Florida, USA
Visit site
I put these risers on with the stock bar &cables (SS now) and the cables will reach. I did have to re-clock the front brake line slightly but its do-able.

I did initially try just the 1" risers, it was an improvement, but it wasn't quite enough. I'm 5'9, and there's very little pressure on the hands / wrist, etc..

Agreed, stock bar ends will be an issue with aftermarket bars. I personally would drill the bars for the controls, (just me)
but you can cut off the inner tab. Should the control crack for some reason, the tab/hole will keep it from rotating. If you loose the tab,
there's nothing stopping it from spinning (short of duct tape on the bar after you get home)..

If those steel bars are that much wider (in that link), disregard the above (at least with risers), the cables likely won't reach unless you cut them down some..


Universal Risers : Universal Risers, 7/8" tube type handlebars




 
Last edited:

TxAg2015

New Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2016
Messages
28
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Texas
Visit site
I went ahead and ordered the Daytona bars. I'm not planning on using them with risers. I think they'll be plenty tall enough and it seems like things should still all fit. *fingers crossed*
I probably will end up drilling the bars to accommodate the controls. I had a control box on my Ninja 500 that lost the plastic locator peg and it floated around all over the place.
I ordered some HVMP extra heavy universal bar ends to go with the new bars. Pricey, but sounds like it'll be worth it.

The extra rise with these new bars is welcomed, but I'm mostly doing this for better wrist angle. I could live with the height of the stock bars, but I don't see myself being able to do 500-600 mile days (or even 200-mile days) with the angle of my wrist on the stock bars.

I'll have to post again here once I get them mounted and see how everything fits.
 

steve.getsiv

New Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2015
Messages
12
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Portland, Oregon
Visit site
It's pretty easy to grind down some bronze hex 3/8" NPT couplers and JB Weld them into universal 7/8" bars. I've done that on my previous drag bars and a set of clip ons. The stock bar ends have plenty of weight to pretty much eliminate vibration. You can also recut the threads with a 16 x 1.5 tap if you want to go all the way through the couplers as opposed to having the threads just bind after 10 or so turns.
 

TxAg2015

New Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2016
Messages
28
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Texas
Visit site
UPDATE:

Installed the bars pretty easily, including drilling holes for the control box pegs. With risers, I think these bars would be problematic, although not impossible, to mount. I'm not using risers though and they fit great. Riding position surprisingly feels a lot like the FJ-09 now (though not exactly). These bars are much wider and straighter than stock. The sweep angle is far more comfortable. It feels like I'm riding a lightweight adventure tourer or dual sport/motard bike now with the wide bars. I have a ridiculous amount of leverage on the steering. I really love the feel now. If you're wanting to go to more of a sport touring feel, give the Daytona bars a look. I'm only 5'6" though (*cue short jokes*), so YMMV.
 

Dry Martini

Junior Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2014
Messages
246
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
In a house
Visit site
Sorry for yet another handlebar thread, but I could only find a couple of really old posts that mentioned these particular bars.
As mentioned many times on this forum, the sweep angle of the stock bars is really bad for long distance riding. !

I am trying to figure out why the stock bar angle is bad for long distance touring. It has never bothered me. The only change I would make is a more forward lean angle, clipons would be nice. I hate sitting upright.
 

Ohendo

Site Supporter
Joined
Jan 29, 2012
Messages
596
Reaction score
125
Points
43
Location
Downingtown, PA
Visit site
UPDATE:

Installed the bars pretty easily, including drilling holes for the control box pegs. With risers, I think these bars would be problematic, although not impossible, to mount. I'm not using risers though and they fit great. Riding position surprisingly feels a lot like the FJ-09 now (though not exactly). These bars are much wider and straighter than stock. The sweep angle is far more comfortable. It feels like I'm riding a lightweight adventure tourer or dual sport/motard bike now with the wide bars. I have a ridiculous amount of leverage on the steering. I really love the feel now. If you're wanting to go to more of a sport touring feel, give the Daytona bars a look. I'm only 5'6" though (*cue short jokes*), so YMMV.

Thx for the info. I use the FZ1 bar, and find myself wishing the slight sweep on them was maybe an inch less. Right wrist is the biggest issue.
Can you post some pics of the bars on your bike? I'd appreciate it. May end up going this route.
 

TxAg2015

New Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2016
Messages
28
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Texas
Visit site
I am trying to figure out why the stock bar angle is bad for long distance touring. It has never bothered me. The only change I would make is a more forward lean angle, clipons would be nice. I hate sitting upright.

For me, it's not so much the lean angle, it's the sweep. It's more aggressive than the natural angle of most people's wrists I guess (mine at least), so you end up either restricting circulation to your hands or straightening out your wrists, in which case all the weight goes right on the ball of your hand which hurts like hell after a long day (again, at least for me). But the beauty of having standard handlebars is that everyone can customize it to their own personal tastes.

Thx for the info. I use the FZ1 bar, and find myself wishing the slight sweep on them was maybe an inch less. Right wrist is the biggest issue.
Can you post some pics of the bars on your bike? I'd appreciate it. May end up going this route.

Yeah, I'll try to get some pics later today. It's quite wide, especially with the HVMP bar ends. Keep in mind these are a lot taller than stock and if I remember the specs on the FZ1 bar, they're especially taller than those. If you want to keep a more forward position, you might look at some of their other bars. The Bikemaster Drag bars have a similar sweep (3.84", compare to 3" for the Daytona and like 6" for the stock FZ6 bars), but are flat and a little bit shorter than the Daytonas: Bike Master Drag Bar Handlebars - RevZilla
 

Ohendo

Site Supporter
Joined
Jan 29, 2012
Messages
596
Reaction score
125
Points
43
Location
Downingtown, PA
Visit site
I appreciate it, only post pics if convenient.
I should have mentioned I use 1" up and 1" back risers with my FZ1 bar, so I would simply remove the risers if I went the Daytona route.
The Drag Bar sweep of 3.84" gives me pause... I believe the FZ1 bars are close to that. I'm looking for 2-3".

Edit: I think I found what I'm looking for and placed an order at Revzilla for these drag bars: TC Bros Drag 7/8".
Spec lists only 2" of sweep, 28" overall width, and they're steel vs. aluminum. Inexpensive, too; of course I then placed an order for some universal heavy HVMP bar ends, not quite as inexpensive! Keep hearing great things about them, so why not.
 
Last edited:

Dry Martini

Junior Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2014
Messages
246
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
In a house
Visit site
For me, it's not so much the lean angle, it's the sweep. It's more aggressive than the natural angle of most people's wrists I guess (mine at least), so you end up either restricting circulation to your hands or straightening out your wrists, in which case all the weight goes right on the ball of your hand which hurts like hell after a long day (again, at least for me). But the beauty of having standard handlebars is that everyone can customize it to their own personal tastes.


It sounds like you are using your arms to support your upper body. This will lead to aching hands/wrists. If you support your upper body with your abdominal muscles, alleviating the weight from your hands, you will find that even a super sport bike will be comfortable.
 
Top