pchbreeze
Custom Abuser
Does anyone know of any web page 'how to's for changing brake lines?
brake lines
- Thread starter pchbreeze
- Start date
urbanj
Junior Member
no but it would go like this.
1 - place oil pan under calipers
2 - crack oil lines at calipers. and let them drain into the pan.
3 - remove the lines from their clips and what not so they come out smoothly
4 - remove the lines from the master cylinder being careful not to get any fluid on the paint.
5 - attach lines to master and route them properly to calipers.
6 - attach to calipers and torque fittings to spec (with new washers)
7 - fill master cylinder with brake fluid (dot4) and crack bleeder screws on calipers to gravity bleed.
8 - once gravity bled, close bleeders and pump up the brakes and hold. then crack the bleeder to bleed air. when the lever is to the bottom close the bleeder. then pump it up again and repeat. keep an eye on fluid level in the master. once all the air is out, top up fluid and clean the area with brake clean or wash the bike.
9 - take for test ride.
NOTE - brakes really should be done by someone that knows what they are doing. one mistake on a bike and you could be dead. same goes with autos but you have a bigger saftey net.......... a cage.
1 - place oil pan under calipers
2 - crack oil lines at calipers. and let them drain into the pan.
3 - remove the lines from their clips and what not so they come out smoothly
4 - remove the lines from the master cylinder being careful not to get any fluid on the paint.
5 - attach lines to master and route them properly to calipers.
6 - attach to calipers and torque fittings to spec (with new washers)
7 - fill master cylinder with brake fluid (dot4) and crack bleeder screws on calipers to gravity bleed.
8 - once gravity bled, close bleeders and pump up the brakes and hold. then crack the bleeder to bleed air. when the lever is to the bottom close the bleeder. then pump it up again and repeat. keep an eye on fluid level in the master. once all the air is out, top up fluid and clean the area with brake clean or wash the bike.
9 - take for test ride.
NOTE - brakes really should be done by someone that knows what they are doing. one mistake on a bike and you could be dead. same goes with autos but you have a bigger saftey net.......... a cage.
madmanmaigret
Mad like crazy not angry
I also think Hellgate did a write up when he changed to the Galfers....... but urbanj's quickie works also.... I will add to this, DO NOT GET ANY DIRT/DEBRIS IN YOUR BRAKE FLUID!
I found the Mity Vac was the only way I could get the lever to firm up. I did the traditional method and all I had was air leaking back into the line. With the Mity Vac I was done in 10 minutes.
Uranj's process is spot on!
Go forth and bleed young man!
Uranj's process is spot on!
Go forth and bleed young man!
Gigot2000
L'Bon Dieu Amen
Thought I would go with the Mity Vac since everybody talked about it. Found it pricey. Looked for some speedbleeders. Looks cheap. Bought some but the wrong ones *sigh*...
I finally did the changing the old way which is really easy. You need to purge the braking system completely first. Empty most of the DOT4 the same way you usually change your brake fluid (means with a tube and something to dump the fluid in). Now, every time you remove the end of a line, be sure to throw some paper towel around it 'cause you don't want some nasty DOT4 drops on your paint and cowling. Your new lines should use the same routing as your old ones, the longer line going on your left caliper. Fill the system with DOT4. Et voila! Nothing else to say. I went with Goodridge but almost everybody goes with Galfer (which are color customizable too).
Anyway, there's a topic in the Other forum talking about the "brake lever feel" if you need more information. That good Parabellum did a great writeup but no pics.
I finally did the changing the old way which is really easy. You need to purge the braking system completely first. Empty most of the DOT4 the same way you usually change your brake fluid (means with a tube and something to dump the fluid in). Now, every time you remove the end of a line, be sure to throw some paper towel around it 'cause you don't want some nasty DOT4 drops on your paint and cowling. Your new lines should use the same routing as your old ones, the longer line going on your left caliper. Fill the system with DOT4. Et voila! Nothing else to say. I went with Goodridge but almost everybody goes with Galfer (which are color customizable too).
Anyway, there's a topic in the Other forum talking about the "brake lever feel" if you need more information. That good Parabellum did a great writeup but no pics.
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pchbreeze
Custom Abuser
It sounds like its the same as on a car but I'm unsure how they're attached to the cylinder and brakes...this is especially true because my bike has been in a shop for a month now. I lost the front in the fender bender.
madmanmaigret
Mad like crazy not angry
banjo bolt just like your car.
swerve9031
Junior Member
One further small piece of advice... wipe round the fluid resevoir with a damp cloth when you have filled it and replaced the cap... There will be fluid on the outside and wiping it will save the paint on the outside!
I bought mine a Sears, about $25.00 to $30.00, I think. I bought the one without the gauge.
Gigot2000
L'Bon Dieu Amen
We, Canadians, don't know how to price things right! 
Which is why I'm buying south of the border but there's no real saving under 100$ mostly because of shipping+customs+taxes. At 25-30$, it's not that bad, I must admit and I'm sure you're saving time too. But after doing it the "classic" way, it's even simpler to keep the money. Maybe paying 2$ that little kid passing by if it's really getting messy though..
Now... I'm saying this after I've paid a little more to get those two speedbleeders which aren't the right size for my calipers. Means: complete waste of money. I'm quite sure I'm trying to prove a point here, but, seriously, I don't really know where my mind is heading. Were we talking about Bernoulli's equation?
Which is why I'm buying south of the border but there's no real saving under 100$ mostly because of shipping+customs+taxes. At 25-30$, it's not that bad, I must admit and I'm sure you're saving time too. But after doing it the "classic" way, it's even simpler to keep the money. Maybe paying 2$ that little kid passing by if it's really getting messy though..
Now... I'm saying this after I've paid a little more to get those two speedbleeders which aren't the right size for my calipers. Means: complete waste of money. I'm quite sure I'm trying to prove a point here, but, seriously, I don't really know where my mind is heading. Were we talking about Bernoulli's equation?
Desi_FZ6
Junior Member
OK I just got the Galfer Brake Line kit (Front + Rear + DOT4 fluid) & tried installing them but am running into the following issue for front brakes.
For some reason the system, is NOT developing any pressure & seems there is air leaking in somewhere. (Am NOT using speedy bleeders/mighty vac etc)
Even after pumping the lever 10 reps X 20 times & tightening/loosening the bleeder bolts to relase air, there are still air bubbles in coming in the fluid. There is no pressure buildup at all
The problem is how do I find where the air is leaking in from? I dont see any oil leaking out & the bolts are tightened to the recommended torue (thus hopefullly crushing the included copper washers).
We tried for 3-4 hrs & finally gave up for today. Will try tomorrow & if does'nt get fixed will go back to the OEM/Stock ones. Is there any way of finding if the master cylinder etc is ok. (Everything was working b4 I took off the lines to install the galfers )
Not sure if there is something different for the 2007 model
For some reason the system, is NOT developing any pressure & seems there is air leaking in somewhere. (Am NOT using speedy bleeders/mighty vac etc)
Even after pumping the lever 10 reps X 20 times & tightening/loosening the bleeder bolts to relase air, there are still air bubbles in coming in the fluid. There is no pressure buildup at all
The problem is how do I find where the air is leaking in from? I dont see any oil leaking out & the bolts are tightened to the recommended torue (thus hopefullly crushing the included copper washers).
We tried for 3-4 hrs & finally gave up for today. Will try tomorrow & if does'nt get fixed will go back to the OEM/Stock ones. Is there any way of finding if the master cylinder etc is ok. (Everything was working b4 I took off the lines to install the galfers )
Not sure if there is something different for the 2007 model
outkast
Junior Member
When I changed mine some air was holdind out in the front calipers. I took them back off the bike ,raised them high and re bled with the bleed nipple as the highest point. Job done.
Also tie the lever back as far as it will go overnight, any small bubbles will rise upto the master cylinder. This works even if you dont change the fluid and realy stiffens the feel.
Oh, and clean the calipers while you have them off.
Also tie the lever back as far as it will go overnight, any small bubbles will rise upto the master cylinder. This works even if you dont change the fluid and realy stiffens the feel.
Oh, and clean the calipers while you have them off.
Desi_FZ6
Junior Member
I have brake line pressure !!!
Left the lines/fluid in overnight & most probably all the air moved out to the top etc, just had to pump the lever 5-6 times & started getting pressure. soon after was bleeding only fluid w/o any air.
Will let it sit for couple more hrs & top of fluid/finish.
Gotta start the rear ones now ;-)
Left the lines/fluid in overnight & most probably all the air moved out to the top etc, just had to pump the lever 5-6 times & started getting pressure. soon after was bleeding only fluid w/o any air.
Will let it sit for couple more hrs & top of fluid/finish.
Gotta start the rear ones now ;-)
