Build your own Manometer for Throttle Body Sync!

[motojoe122]

I've built and use the one from this thread. If you follow the instructions and get the parts listed you should have no problems. I've had mine for a while now.
View attachment 56470

 

[FIZZER6]

It's also helpful to use at least 6' of tubing on each tube and keep the tubing the exact same length for all 4. The tubing itself will offer some resistance to the jumping of the fluid in addition to the critical vacuum restrictors.

Get the bike up to operating temp BEFORE hooking up the manometer so that the RPMS are lower which will allow the fluid to stabilize much faster.

 

[FinalImpact]

The manual doesn't want # 1 messed with as its the baseline for the Target Air Fuel Ratio (AFR). If moved, you can use a vacuum gauge to get it back to a **near** ideal setting.

By changing the baseline #1 value you can adjust all cylinders to swing the AFR value (Rich or Lean) at idle. The happy spot will be when both the RPM and the manifold vacuum meet the OEM settings. Hint: Those adjusters are setting how much air each cylinder gets. The fuel is basically a fixed value based upon engine temp and RPM.

Get all ports sync'd (+/-4mmHg of each other) and take note of RPM and manifold vacuum by inserting at "T" gauge at the vacuum sensor (see pic).

• Turn all adjusters in an 1/8 to 1/4 observing the RPM and Vacuum.
• If both increase your getting closer to ideal. Repeat until rpm/vacuum declines.
• If both DECREASE, GO BACK. Open ALL 1/8 to 1/4. If both RPM and Vacuum increase your getting closer to ideal. Repeat until vacuum declines.
• In short, find the balance that achieves smooth high idle (NOT BY MOVING THE THUMB SCREW) and higher vacuum readings. For smooth year round performance, run towards the richer side = lower vacuum ###.

Too rich = lower idle speed, stinky exhaust, but better throttle response (to a point) and less likely to die from decelerating.
IDEAL = Higher vacuum but NOT the highest, Steady RPM. In short - From the HIGHEST Vacuum values, screw them in to richen them 1/4 to 3/8 of a turn.
Too lean = higher idle speed, but may stumble or induce slower throttle response when too far. Dies when coming down from RPM.

ALL Adjusters Turned IN = lower AFR = richer
ALL Adjusters Turned OUT = higher AFR = leaner

Connect a vacuum gauge using a "T" to the sensor shown here in the bottom right w/3 wires coming from it.

This assumes the CO (C01/C02) adjustments are the OEM values set from the factory and a fuel controller is not adding/removing fuel at idle.

EDIT 2015-04-14: Our FSM Does NOT state this but: Idle for FZ6R is supposed to be set at 4.5 to 5.5%Co which equates to an AFR of 12.83 to 12.43:1.
NOTES: Although 14.7:1 AFR is ideal for emission purposes, its too lean to run at reliably throughout all riding conditions - hot/cold, high altitude/low altitude, different fuel blends etc, thus running on the richer side helps the bike run reliably. That said; FZ6R idle at vacuum is even higher than ours running at @32kPa (9.37inHg, 238mmHg) {4.5 - 5.5%Co}. Point; I'd guess our ideal AFR at idle is ~5.6%Co or 12.4:1 AFR.

FZ6 Idling condition S1/S2 models...
Engine idling speed: 1250–1350 r/min
Intake vacuum: 29.0 kPa (8.6 inHg) (218 mmHg)
Water temperature: 95.0–105.0 °C (203.00–221.00 °F)
Oil temperature: 75.0–85.0 °C (167.00–185.00 °F)
Throttle cable free play: 3.0–5.0 mm (0.12–0.20 in)

I picked on Carbtune on the cheap from fleebay. Connecting all ports together I verified all 4 read the same at various vacuum conditions and gave it a test on the bike. It should be noted that its not a true vacuum gauge... More later.

As stated, you CAN ADJUST THESE BIKES TO MEET the OEM SPEC for Vacuum but you have to move the #1 screw and all the others (equal amounts) to do so. Or change the CO or Fuel controller values.

AS FOUND vacuum and throttle body vacuum readings from tuning by ear:

And after using hardware - AS LEFT ~ 220mmHg: Which if you notice is the SAME VALUE the VACUUM GAUGE READS --> and is the OEM SPEC 8.6inHg

AFR reported by controller.... I think it was 12.5:1 when I left it, This may have been while testing the range I could obtain with the screws as the RPM is at 1400.

In this picture I was verifying that removing fuel (-10) entries at 1000 and 1500 RPM equate to 1.00:1 AFR point and they do! Hint: once the TB's are synce'd, those with fuel controllers can adjust the AFR here.

One last thing. I set all screws to exactly ONE TURN out and the variance from the group was less then 0.5cmHg (meter scale is 2.0cmHg major division (20mmHg), 0.5cmHg minor division (5mmHg). The device does not have sufficent resolution to read anything less than 10mmHg accurately as the values are moving targets (relies on vacuum leak and pulses to settle itself).
- On that note: I'm not too impressed with Morgan Carbtune device. Its not a "true Vacuum gauge," Its a Flow Meter! IT RELIES ON AIR LEAK PAST THE RODS TO make measurements. So when the CAPS are returned to the Sync hoses on the bike, NO MORE ARE leak and the Values recorded are NOT the ACTUAL conditions its running under! The Carbtune device is Introducing AIR Changes the Idle Mixture.... Its why the device can not hold vacuum like the oil filled gauge I use. Thankfully it was cheap!

 

[Jibwalker]

8. Your completed manometer should look something like this, fluid should be leveled out after a few hours and 6-8" of fluid in each hose.

9. If you have not already done so, attach the 4 vacuum restrictors to the ends of the 4 hoses.

YOU HAVE BUILT YOUR MANOMETER!!!

The vacuum restrictors have a small brass insert in one end. Which end do I attach to the 4 hoses at this point?

 

[motojoe122]

The vacuum restrictors have a small brass insert in one end. Which end do I attach to the 4 hoses at this point?

The insert faces out on mine. I don't think it makes a difference tho.

 

[79dusan]

My throttle cable snapped, so I decided to change it. While I searched the internet on how to do that, I thought I might synchronize throttle bodies as well. I wanted to see how much off they were (I was not sure if anyone has ever done that on my bike) and to cure the vibrations I was getting... I built a manometer similar to the one here and started to get the job done. Unfortunatelly, I did not get too far :-(
1. Even with a proper warm up, my #1 and #4 oil levels were racing up so I had to kill the engine (~15 secs), no time to play with screws
2. Damn screw #2 is stuck so bad, it wouldn´t turn either way, I even removed the tank to get more space. IT´S FN STUCK!!! Arrrrrrrrrrgh! Spray lube was no help... the screw head is nearly gone now...
Screws #3 and #4 are fine, #1 dont know - haven´t touched it.
So I already wrote an email to Yamaha how much they wanted for a replacement screw... and getting my handy drill ready... :-(((

 

[Taz3]

Why does the tutorial direct us to sync the throttle bodies first, then adjust the idle rpm, then sync them again? Could we just get the bike up to temp, set idle rpm to 1350, then sync throttle bodies once and be done?

 

[christopheroz]

Is it cylinder 1 or 2 to sync too? I have a 2008 FZ6, and would like to perform a sync but there are posts saying cyl 1 and another one saying cyl 2? Thanks for any help.

 

[motojoe122]

Is it cylinder 1 or 2 to sync too? I have a 2008 FZ6, and would like to perform a sync but there are posts saying cyl 1 and another one saying cyl 2? Thanks for any help.

Normally, you adjust 2,3, and 4 off #1. In some cases you may have to reset #1, Final Impact has more experience with that than I do. I'm sure he'll pop up soon tho.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[FinalImpact]

Why does the tutorial direct us to sync the throttle bodies first, then adjust the idle rpm, then sync them again? Could we just get the bike up to temp, set idle rpm to 1350, then sync throttle bodies once and be done?

Because the rpm may vary when you turn the sync screws.... So you have to maintain the RPM while achieving ALL of the other goals!
That said, the goals are 1300 rpm +/-50 and 8.6inHg and all vacuum readings balanced.

In additon when hot you should be able to adjust idle speed from 1300 +/-200 rpm.
If you cant, it can mean the AFR is off.

 

[FinalImpact]

Is it cylinder 1 or 2 to sync too? I have a 2008 FZ6, and would like to perform a sync but there are posts saying cyl 1 and another one saying cyl 2? Thanks for any help.

MotoJoe has it right. #1. See post above about setting rpm, vacuum, and thumb screw!
Have fun!

 

[gulfpete]

I made this today, great design!
I ended up with #1 high and #4 low at idle and the opposite at 4000 rpm. This seems to be normal, I wonder if it's because of the way air moves in the airbox? Or maybe one side of the air filter gets dirtyer.

 

[Ohendo]

Just ordered the parts to build one of these. I believe my 2005 S1 has never had a throttle body sync performed. I bought used with 10K miles, now sitting at 53K miles.
I did the valve adjustment a couple weeks ago. Runs like a top, but hesitates a little going from full stop to full go (engine hot or cold, no difference.) I have to feather the clutch while keeping RPM's somewhat high to avoid it.
Hoping the throttle body sync solves the issue!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Just ordered the parts to build one of these. I believe my 2005 S1 has never had a throttle body sync performed. I bought used with 10K miles, now sitting at 53K miles.
I did the valve adjustment a couple weeks ago. Runs like a top, but hesitates a little going from full stop to full go (engine hot or cold, no difference.) I have to feather the clutch while keeping RPM's somewhat high to avoid it.
Hoping the throttle body sync solves the issue!

Besides syncing at idle, re-check AND ADJUST @ 4,000 RPMs. You'll usually find some variance once in the slightly higher RPM's.

You can get both ends of the RPM 1300-4000 range REALLY close and it'll be considerably smoother loosing most of any vibrations (for me,) thru the seat.

My sync after last years valve adjustment:

 

[trepetti]

Just ordered the parts to build one of these. I believe my 2005 S1 has never had a throttle body sync performed. I bought used with 10K miles, now sitting at 53K miles.
I did the valve adjustment a couple weeks ago. Runs like a top, but hesitates a little going from full stop to full go (engine hot or cold, no difference.) I have to feather the clutch while keeping RPM's somewhat high to avoid it.
Hoping the throttle body sync solves the issue!

I built this many years ago and it worked great. Used it twice. Last year I went to use it again, and the ATF I used aged to the point where it became unusable. Additionally, it stained the tubes, so even replacing the fluid would not have helped.

So bang for the buck, it was a good thing to do. But last year I bought a Carbtune Pro, like Scott shows in his pic. It is really great. Stable and easy to read. The homemade manometer can be jumpy unless you get the fluid just right. For $100, it is still cheaper than having the shop do the work, with the benefit of the work being done right.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

For $100, it is still cheaper than having the shop do the work, with the benefit of the work being done right.

Way back, 2004, I had issues with my FJR. Paid well over $125 and they screwed up the sync and chipped the frame...

Paid them to screw up the bike, damage it, and it still wasn't fixed... Fix was a corroded connector under the fuel tank(water intrusion/turned green).

 

[Ohendo]

I built this many years ago and it worked great. Used it twice. Last year I went to use it again, and the ATF I used aged to the point where it became unusable. Additionally, it stained the tubes, so even replacing the fluid would not have helped.

So bang for the buck, it was a good thing to do. But last year I bought a Carbtune Pro, like Scott shows in his pic. It is really great. Stable and easy to read. The homemade manometer can be jumpy unless you get the fluid just right. For $100, it is still cheaper than having the shop do the work, with the benefit of the work being done right.

Just looked the Carbtune pro up. With the current exchange rate dollars to pounds... could have one bought and shipped for $80! Since I’ve already ordered the home made stuff, I’ll give it a shot. Just need it to work once.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

. could have one bought and shipped for $80! Since I’ve already ordered the home made stuff, I’ll give it a shot. Just need it to work once.

That's about what I paid for mine back in 2004/2005 (with a black sheath to hold hoses, nozzles, etc)

 

[trepetti]

Just looked the Carbtune pro up. With the current exchange rate dollars to pounds... could have one bought and shipped for $80! Since I’ve already ordered the home made stuff, I’ll give it a shot. Just need it to work once.

I've done both, and the homemade works. But the Carbtune works better. Good luck.

 

[DeepBarney]

Need to check my bike since I don't know if it's ever been synched. For anyone considering throwing out a hundred bucks for a carb tune you should consider a electronic manometer. As you're in that price range. I've got a Dwyer 477 and it's really easy to use and versatile. Pressure and vacuum readings in any unit there is, and will read a vacuum down to a thousandth of an inch WC. I use one regularly at work and getting the idea to use it to tune carbs at home was a game changer for me (just a tune it by ear guy before). The ability to use it for a lot of other tasks is what makes it worth the money for me.