Build your own Manometer for Throttle Body Sync!

[Spideyrex]

Update: Well I still get bubbles that make getting reading difficult, but 1-2 are much closer and 3 seems close as well. I still can't get a feel on 4. Although for the first 10-12 seconds after start up (and engine already warmed up) all seem to be close, then3/4 go haywire. But I think this is an artifact of the manometer, not the engine.
Why? Well I took it for a test ride and WOW!! Much smoother across the rev range. It is smooth all the way until 7000+ but even 7-12K, it zings or hums along. Before, at 4k+ it would buzz a lot and as the revs climbed it smoothed out a little, but not like it is now. I had no idea how smoother it can be! It seems to rev faster and more effortlessly now!!!
While I am not 100% sure that it is synched perfectly, it is close enough for me and a huge improvement.

BTW, QuickFlick, you should sync at idle and again at 4k. I did not bother at 4k given my problems, but I did notice all 4 levels rose close to each other when I checked it at 4k.

 

[QwickFliCk]

BTW, QuickFlick, you should sync at idle and again at 4k. I did not bother at 4k given my problems, but I did notice all 4 levels rose close to each other when I checked it at 4k.

should i keep it at 4k for like 30 seconds to see if it evens out?

 

[05yamahafz6]

I finally had a chance to try to sync my throttle bodies. the bike was idling around 1500 rpms, thats when i found out the yamaha tech i took it too had messed up the sync as the idle adjustment screw didnt work at all. so i bottomed out all the screws and then opened them 1 full turn. now i was able to adjust the idle and it is set at 1320 rpms. but the sync was now way off, so i got them all even, but the rpm goes up, then i lower the idle and the sync is off again. they just don't seem to want to sync up and stay that way at factory idle. Does anybody have any more details that i might be messing up as im using the service manual instructions. Should i really care at all what vaccuum each cylinder is pulling or just make them even.

The other question is, i'm preparing to install a power commander and k&n filter to go along with the two brothers that are on the bike now, can you do a throttle sync with the power commander installed or do you have to remove it to do the sync and then reinstall it.


really would appreciate any help, i think im must be overcomplicating this, and the bike doesnt run bad, it just needs a sync.

 

[FIZZER6]

NEED HELP!!

i bought all 4 restrictors..i followed all the instructions..i have an 05' fz when i adjusted the idle it would not stay at 1350 it would bounce to 1320 to 1380 and sometimes 14something


shouldnt it level out? What should i do??

I got my sync to be close at idle and close at 4K rpms with the idle close to 1350 and that was fine...ran MUCH better! I would not be concerned if the tach bounces like that...there is no way the idle will stay perfectly at 1350 rpms on any motor, as long as the idle sounds smooth don't worry about it.

 

[QwickFliCk]

I got my sync to be close at idle and close at 4K rpms with the idle close to 1350 and that was fine...ran MUCH better! I would not be concerned if the tach bounces like that...there is no way the idle will stay perfectly at 1350 rpms on any motor, as long as the idle sounds smooth don't worry about it.

thanks alot man! i was gettin a little worried:thumbup:

 

[Dave.TX]

I made one exactly to spec's from OP. One of the F connectors has a leak and I initially used ATF. 1 & 4 went sky high and 2 & 3 emptied out. Unusable. Cleaned it out, switched it to 10w30 motor oil, same thing. F connector is bad so will have to replace. Hopefully that will do the trick and I can sync the TB's. If not I'll shell out the $100 for one and be done with it.

 

[GTPAddict]

When it's tight you'll know. The one I made hangs in the garage in front of where I park my bike. Depending on garage temp, the level in the #4 hose will rise slightly above the others. I have the ends of the hoses blocked off, so the whole thing is pretty much air tight, and I used 2 stroke motorcycle oil.

Anyway, thanks again to the OP for this. I didn't know how they were made until this thread

 

[iSteve]

I have a motion pro manometer and each tube has a adjustable jet to calibrate it. Motion pro tells you to calibrate before syncing. Just wondering if you check to make sure each hose is reading the same.

I did my first sync at 12k miles and they were almost identical at 4k rpm and almost perfect at idle.

 

[Nelly]

So I had a good run out yesterday, the throttle is still a bit on off. I have adjusted the throttle cable and this has improved things.
I have improved the top end of the bike by about 15-20 mph. This surprised me greatly. It was much keener and smoother to rev out in the higher gears.
It's defo worth doing.
Well worth the effort.
Cheers

Nelly:thumbup:

 

[Dave.TX]

Good news! Replaced the F connector and it's no longer leaking.

Previously the #2 and #3 cylinder sync hoses would drain and the #1 and #4 hoses would rise. So, before starting the bike, I adjusted #'s 2&3 clockwise (creating more vacuum) about 1/4 turn. Started the motor and that was the ticket! I was able to synchronize the throttle bodies at idle, then sync'ed them at 4,000RPM. Back at idle it's kind of far off, not bad and still a lot better than before. At 4,000 it should be just right.

Thanks to the OP for helping us do this on our own. Also thanks to Fred and Hellgate for posting a how-to video on Youtube.

All is well in the world again. :iconbeer:

 

[mave2911]

9. slowly turn the adjusting screws for the corresponding tube to bring the levels together...DO NOT turn the #1 screw. Adjust #2-#4 to match the #1 tube ONLY!
Here are the screws you are turning. Note, #1 is the top, left screw...do not touch this one!

Interesting to note, on the R1 forum thread you linked to, it said no3 is the master and not to adjust no3.

Can anybody please confirm?

Cheers,
Rick
EDIT: Link here

EDIT2: A quick check of the service manual says that it is indeed no1 that is the master on our bikes (FZ6), and should be set to -

Vacuum pressure at engine idling speed 29 kPa (218 mmHg, 8.5827 inHg)

 

[mave2911]

Well, I have looked high and low, and can't seem to find these parts in Australia.

So my question is, would any of you kindly USAnians mind buying me two or three sets of the required fittings please? (4) Dorman 47311 Vacuum restrictors (3/16") & (2) Dorman 47356 Vacuum "F" connectors (3/16")
I can Paypal the money to you, once I know how much, including shipping, to send.

For shipping quote, I live in Adelaide, South Australia (post code 5251)

So, if any friendly forum participant wouldn't mind doing this for me, I'd be really appreciative.

Cheers,
Rick

 

[mikw73]

^ I am going to order these parts for myself soon and would be happy to help. I'll get some prices in the next day or so.

 

[andru8]

would this do the same thing for my FZ6 as i cant find the parts locally in the UK at a good price,

4 / four cylinder motorcycle vacuum gauge from Autolive Online - VGA4 | eBay

Cheers

 

[FIZZER6]

would this do the same thing for my FZ6 as i cant find the parts locally in the UK at a good price,

4 / four cylinder motorcycle vacuum gauge from Autolive Online - VGA4 | eBay

Cheers

Yes, I believe that would do it. A manometer is simply a gauge to adjust the vacuum on each throttle body to be the same.

 

[pookamatic]

This project has all the makings of a group "assemble." That is, all the parts are simple, light, easy to acquire (mostly) and put together. However, who wants to pay crazy shipping for tiny parts, or buy a roll of tubing when only so much is needed?

It sounds like a good opportunity for one member to take orders, buy parts in bulk, and semi assemble and ship. End user would just be responsible for the oil.

Or,am I over complicating things?

 

[mikw73]

^ Sounds like a good plan.

 

[Darth Fazer]

I see mention of using engine oil in your homemade manometer. Is it ok to use Rotella in there or should I use a motorcycle-labeled oil such as Amsoil or Motul?

Seriously, many thanks to FIZZER6 for posting the original thread. My old MotionPro finally gave up the ghost, so this project will save me big $! :thumbup:

 

[FinalImpact]

Trouble shooting tip

Tip: if you purchase a 50cc syringe you can verify the assembly to be leak free by connecting all 4 of the manometers tubes to a manifold or assortment of "T"s.

Example: with the addition of 3 "T"s you can connect the syringe to the 4 open tubes. Pull back and hold the syringe plunger and verify that 1) the whole system doesn't leak down and 2) that all 4 tubes measure the same height.
With this, you will avoid the frustration of finding leaking T's, cracked fittings and improperly matched fitting to tubing sizes.

HOSE CLAMP:
Cut off a thin round of tubing (roughly a 3/16" wide) and spread it with needle nose pliers to stretch it and fit it OVER the ends of the tubing before sliding the tubing on to the fitting. This acts as a hose clamp applying 360 degrees of clamping force to ensure the junction doesn't leak. Silicone tubing or rubber tubing will stretch far easier than vinyl tubing. Silicone is often found a model and Radio Control Hobby stores. Note: they will also carry some nice valves and or hemostats so you can shut off flow to the manometer so the bike can warm up or allow you to rev it up without sucking fluid.

FWIW: For those of you will little tweaking experience i would grab a piece of paper and record the air bleed screw turns out BEFORE MAKING ADJUSTMENTS!!!
Mark your screw driver with a single line on it. Turn each of the screws in counting exactly how many turns it was to "lightly" bottom them (turning clockwise). Record the number and screw them back out the same amount. Go on to the next one. Thus if something goes wrong, you can at least put it back where it was. Also - its going to go better if the target RPM is set before making adjustments. PS - the fuel amount is fixed; you are adjusting the AIR to be mixed with the fuel. When all four are near an ideal state, its very likely the idle will have increased and the mano readings will be higher. Adjust the idle as needed to keep it on target.

Have Fun!

 

[Timbostang]

Re: Trouble shooting tip

This is gonna be next on my project list. This is one of the buzziest bikes I've owned and I've been thinking it was due to throttle body sync.