fazil

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I guess he has immo just like me. I have a spare US ecu for bad days. I thought, i could cancel the immo and use it with little wiring modification when needed.
 

Gramwam

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Ignition coils

Good morning,

I had some help last night but am still stumped.

I have a FZ6 S2 2007 NON ABS, I just need to know if anyone can tell me how to get to the ignition coils without removing the entire Airbox to lift out the battery box, its impossible to get access to remove a coil without it coming back 1.5 inches for sure! Very tight work space and I am a total moron when it comes to bike engines and electrics.

I have used a mechanic for 14 years but now the nearest one is 100+ miles away.

Can anybody advise please?
 

fz6-Dan

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Re: Ignition coils

Good morning,

I had some help last night but am still stumped.

I have a FZ6 S2 2007 NON ABS, I just need to know if anyone can tell me how to get to the ignition coils without removing the entire Airbox to lift out the battery box, its impossible to get access to remove a coil without it coming back 1.5 inches for sure! Very tight work space and I am a total moron when it comes to bike engines and electrics.

I have used a mechanic for 14 years but now the nearest one is 100+ miles away.

Can anybody advise please?

I can't really help but I came to say that taking off the air box and battery is a pretty simple procedure and I am NOT mechanically inclined.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Gramwam

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Re: Ignition coils

Thanks Dan,

Just done the deed, yes, the airbox was a lot easier than it looked, only 4 hoses and the air temp plug. I got out the old coil...ruined, crack down the positive side, have fitted the new one, have not put the bike back together yet, but fingers crossed!
 

FinalImpact

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Re: Ignition coils

Why the new thread?

Granted the battery tray is under the air box, remove the battery and all obvious bolts using 10mm socket and wrench. Tilt air box rearward to free battery tray.
Remove the two bolts holding the radiator in place (left side) and pull radiator left off the hanger allowing it to settle on the hoses.
Remove the 4 spark plug caps from the valve cover.
Lift battery tray up and disconnect the power and ground wires while feeding the coil wires through the matt.

There is nothing holding the battery tray in once freed from the air box.
Its tight and it can be done.
If you have a 3mm Allen driver that reaches the air box clamps, I'd remove it....


** ALSO - GOOD PRACTICE ** Remove negative ground lead from battery first. Why - if you do the Positive first and touch your wrench/socket to the frame you create a short and throw sparks burning wrench and bike.
Negative off first Negative on LAST!
 

Gramwam

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Re: Ignition coils

Hey,

Thanks again Finallmpact, I have done all you advised, new coil in, the old one had a huge crack on the positive side, fired her up....still no #1 and #4 cylinder working! am stumped, would the new spart gaps have anything to do with it?
 

FinalImpact

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The coils don't just fail out of the blue.
The red wires provide power from the battery. The ECU acts as the trigger controlling the sparks rate and duration by clamping the coils ground wire to ground through the ECU. When you find the coil cracked or burned it is because the ECU's coil circuit shorted to ground and burned out the coil.

Hopefully it is just a wire that came off the spade and the coil is not needed. Time will tell.


67452d1482331899-ignition-coils-20161221_135115-jpg


If you have a 12v test lamp, set your battery in the frame and connect the ground lead. Connect test lamp to Positive battery terminal. Touch the other end of test lamp to coil trigger wires female spade Orange/black trace and then 2/3 Grey/Black trace.

I lay odds 1/4 Orange/black lights the test lamp as that lead is shorted at the ECU.

Caveat is I'm basing this on USA bike and schematic. But the lead to coil 1&4 will light your test lamp.

To prove its not a pinched wire, unplug the ECU and repeat the test. The test lamp will not light if the wire is good.
 

Motogiro

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Re: Ignition coils

Thanks Final,

I am, as you know a moron, what does shorted to ground mean exactly? will i need a new ECU?
:welcome: to the forum!
What Final means, (shorted to ground) is that the ECU or ECM (computer) that runs the whole show, probably has a shorted switching transistor for that coil. This could cause the coil to overheat. Also the coil may have lost physical integrity, allowing high voltage from it's secondary winding to pass to the ECU causing the damage to the switching transistor. The old which came first, the chicken or the egg, but you may also need a computer. Regardless more testing is needed...

Sent from Moto's Motorola
 

Gramwam

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Re: Ignition coils

Thanks Moto,

So me replacing the 1 and 4 coil today was pointless really. Can I just replace the black ECU and put the points I have now in a new one? Or will it still short out? I know nothing about electrics and nobody on this Island can help. I miss my mechanic, he was a genius. I have taken my ECU apart and the pins look great, as do all the wires going into the unit.
 

fazil

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Re: Ignition coils

If the problem is ecu, you should change ecu and ignition switch and all other key related locks all together, because of immoblizer system. Very expensive.

i found another similar thread here:

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-electrical/55067-ignition-coils.html

She has changed ecu after all and problem has been solved. I recommend to find a cheap US Ecu and bypass immo. But first wirings should be compared.
 
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FinalImpact

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Re: Ignition coils

Fazil, does your FZ1 cluster have immobilizer light? And have you ever ran your bike without the gauge cluster?

Gramwam, any chance you have a hand held multi-meter? This could work in place of test lamp.

Life is about education. Had I not lead this life as I did I wouldn't know what I know now.

There is hope for your problem and I don't think it is all that expensive. There are services to program the ecu if you can find an EU ecu used. Or the other path can be used too. Don't loose hope just yet.

Also, do you mind if I merge these threads combining them as one?
 

Gramwam

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Re: Ignition coils

Thanks Final,

Please do merge. I am not forking out for a new ecu and key system as the bike is not worth the outlay. I have a great blast on her for the last 6 years, served me well, been under a car and tried to throw me into a loch once or twice, maybe its time to hang up my boots.
 

fazil

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Re: Ignition coils

Fazil, does your FZ1 cluster have immobilizer light? And have you ever ran your bike without the gauge cluster?

Yes. It has a yellow immo light. I've bought the cluster from ebay UK.
I am not sure but i guess i ran the engine without any cluster for a while. (I think immo has no relation with cluster)
 

FinalImpact

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Re: Ignition coils

Thanks Final,

Please do merge. I am not forking out for a new ecu and key system as the bike is not worth the outlay. I have a great blast on her for the last 6 years, served me well, been under a car and tried to throw me into a loch once or twice, maybe its time to hang up my boots.

I have a service manual for your bike. It clearly states that if the ECU fails AND YOU HAVE THE RED KEY, you can replace the ECU only. You will use the red key to re-register the other keys.

Find a used ecu. The registry steps are simple.
 

fazil

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Re: Ignition coils

But it is valid for a virgin ecu i think.
So you'll need a brand new ecu, that would cost a fortune perhaps
 
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