Check Engine Light Help

[pookamatic]

Almost made it all the way to work (30 mile, 60 minute commute, cool morning - 50F), sitting at a light after sitting in traffic, the CEL came on. It went away as soon as I pulled away. In parking lot, I let it idle, and the light returned. Again, as soon as I raised the RPMs, the light went away. The temps were high, 195-212.

There are two suspect issues at play.

1) Battery - it is only three weeks old. I did have the grip heaters on during a portion of the ride, but switched them off just before I hit the traffic portion of the commute. Measured at the tender plug, the battery reads 12.04 volts.

2) Coolant - I just changed the coolant this weekend. Partly because it needed to be done, but I had also hoped to see cooler temperatures. In the year I've owned the bike, it seems to have run hotter and hotter. On a 50F morning, I would not expect to be bouncing against boiling. The fan came on maybe 4-5 times during the stop and go portions. The coolant flush appears to have little or no effect, leading me to believe I have a stuck thermostat. Some coolant is definitely getting to the radiator - it gets hot and the fan running does lower temps.

I'm thinking (hoping) a partially stuck open t-stat is causing all these problems. The water pump and fan would be working harder, causing additional drain on the charging system. It would also hurt the temps.

Here is the result of scrolling through diag mode:

D01 16
D03 100
D05 68
D06 154
D07 0
D08 0.6
D09 0.0 Batt voltage?
D20 on
D21 on
D30 00
D31 00
D36 00
D37 00
D48 00
D50 00
D51 00
D52 00
D60 00
D61 46
D62 3
D63 00
D70 0

 

[pookamatic]

Who's a big dumb idiot?

THIS GUY ---> http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-technical/47602-engine-temp-question-2.html#post520105

 

[FinalImpact]

Was the FAN on the whole time? 12.0V should be closer to 13.0V. i.e. 12v batteries are ~2.14v per cell when fully charged.

FWIW: mine is also becoming more fickle as time progresses. At cruise any engine speed the temps are 180F +/-10. After sustained idle time and/or putting about at 10mph or so, the temps go towards 212 and Fan on even at 55F outside. Perhaps I should clean the bugs from the radiator!!!

Anyway - after a long run (30" at sustained hwy speed) check your battery voltage. It should be upwards of 12.8v ~ 13.0v even with dual headlights. Q? Does your fan ever turn off?

 

[pookamatic]

No. While sitting, fan kicks on at 212, runs for about a minute or so (ballpark for today's ambient), temps drop to ~198 and fan shuts off. If still sitting, it gets hot again, rinse and repeat.

I am running the bd43 dual headlight mod, and cheap grip heaters. During the winter, I was conscience of turning them off ~10 minutes before the ride completed just to ensure I had enough juice to start. But this was on a 5 year old battery in the winter. I would expect a brand new battery to have a little more guts, plus I only used the grips for 15 minutes during the highway stretch.

The 12.04 was measured off with the bike off. After the initial purchase and tender trickle of the battery, it measured 12.78. It will have to be pushed to start this afternoon. At lunch, I'll get the temp up, take it for a highway run, then check the voltage again running and stopped.

 

[FinalImpact]

You might want to pull the connection at the battery terminals (I know it new but...) & Regulator/Rectifier and clean them. Also check your ground to the chassis. Perhaps plan this a day when the tank is empty as the RR is best accessed with the tank up or off.

It seems like your charing may be weak...
Each time I park mine it sits on 12.99v even after sitting for a few weeks.

 

[pookamatic]

Went to get gas, pushed it. Metered it while running and saw 12.25, with the RPMs up, it was higher... 12.6 ish. Got gas, needed to push again. (Thank you sloped gas station and gravity.) Tried to keep the revs high, but only managed to get it to 12.09.

I did lower the idle to 1k. Will be returning this to 1,300 once I get it started and warmed again.

Any quick pointers on how to clean the regulator? Where is the chassis grounded?

 

[FinalImpact]

Its more of an inspection - clean as required. You're looking for corrosion, pins, connector not seated.

Use what ever fits into a given connector to clean it but a wire brush is helpful (tooth brush sized). For now you might want to unplug those grips and maybe even a head light if it its safe to do so. Also check BT connection isn't compromised but your voltage seems very low for a new battery.

RR is on the left. Aluminum thingy with fins.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

+1 on Randy's post..

At 1,000 RPM's your just slightly loosing voltage (running on the battery) especially with the dual headlight mod. 1,300 would help but your voltage still sounds low..

A fully charged battery should see 12.8 volts sitting. While revving it to 5,000 RPM's, you should see close to 14 volts (max charge) at your meter.

Was it your bike where you had the brown, nasty coolant in the bike right before you changed it? I ask as if it was neglected for awhile, your temp issues could very well be thermostat related.

Also, the water pump is mechanically driven, NOT electrical), the fan, obviously electric. Those temps your riding in, your temps shouldn't be nearly that hot and once you start moving, should cool down quite a bit on its own. Its in the 80's and humid down here now and my temps aren't even close to yours..

Unfortunatly, the thermostat is at the rear of the engine, just about under the TB's. Looking at my bike, its really, really tight but you can see the two cover bolts for the housing, probably more accessable from the LS if you try to get around from pulling the TB's..

I suspect you have two issues going on, the high temp's being separate from the charging system.

 

[pookamatic]

Darn... had a post but must have missed hitting submit.

I unplugged the headlight and rode home with no issues. Checked (again, 50-60 minute ride over 30 miles), and got 12.65v off. Set idle to 1,300 and got 12.9 still with one headlight, once plugged back in, got 12.72. At 5k RPM, 14.1v.

I'll be replacing the t-stat as soon as I get one. To avoid additional stress - I'm driving the car until this stuff is resolved.

Oh - and it didn't work out where I have an empty tank... Almost full unfortunately... It can be tilted all the way up as long as the vent hoses are crimped, right?

Thanks guys... really appreciate the help.

 

[FinalImpact]

I've lifted mine with near full and it just dripped a bit. A pinch clamp should do. Be warned that when released it may puddle a tad.

From what you wrote last, it's almost as if it just doesn't like the load as it was bouncing back. Time will tell.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Darn... had a post but must have missed hitting submit.

I unplugged the headlight and rode home with no issues. Checked (again, 50-60 minute ride over 30 miles), and got 12.65v off. Set idle to 1,300 and got 12.9 still with one headlight, once plugged back in, got 12.72. At 5k RPM, 14.1v.

I'll be replacing the t-stat as soon as I get one. To avoid additional stress - I'm driving the car until this stuff is resolved.

Oh - and it didn't work out where I have an empty tank... Almost full unfortunately... It can be tilted all the way up as long as the vent hoses are crimped, right?

Thanks guys... really appreciate the help.

Your charging system sounds like its charging good at the higher RPM's, maybe a little low at the lower RPM's but ok..

As for the tank, if you have a siphon bulb (like for marine fuel) you can suck a gallon or two out if need be. The vent and drain lines in the tank are right at the inlet (see below pic), so unless its filled to the brim, you should be ok. Just make sure the lines are FULLY STRAIGHTENED OUT once the tank is lowered.

Just do an eye ball how far out both lines reach in the right side of the bike just behind the brake lever.

 

[pookamatic]

In ordering cooling parts, I'm trying to determine the number of the hose that goes inside the recovery bottle. I'm going to replace the bottle (not nasty, but not easy to see level). The hose that goes in there looks a bit beat up though.

See item #41 here... does this cap include the hose?

Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2008 FZ6 (DARK PURPLISH BLUE METALLIC U) - FZS6XL RADIATOR HOSE Diagram

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

In ordering cooling parts, I'm trying to determine the number of the hose that goes inside the recovery bottle. I'm going to replace the bottle (not nasty, but not easy to see level). The hose that goes in there looks a bit beat up though.

See item #41 here... does this cap include the hose?

Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2008 FZ6 (DARK PURPLISH BLUE METALLIC U) - FZS6XL RADIATOR HOSE Diagram

If your referring to the hose that's attached (in the picture) that actually goes into the tank, yes, I believe its included.

If it wasn't, Yamaha would have anothe part # (and price to go with it).

BTW, if its like the Yamaha outboard engine, (the FJR is the same) the thermostat has a rubber seal attached around the outer flange of the actual thermostat, thus no separate gasket. A little easier re-assembling.

If there's a small vent hole in the actual thermostat, it needs to be UPWARD (for venting).

 

[pookamatic]

Took the reg/rec off. Contacts looked not perfect, but absolutely fine. I took a regular old toothbrush and essentially dusted off the tiniest smidgen of white corrosion (if you want to call it that. And holy torque batman! I ruined an allen getting thouse bolts off!

Still waiting on the t-stat on the cooling issue (see other thread: http://www.600riders.com/forum/gara...in-fishy-temps-supsect-t-stat.html#post534342)

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Took the reg/rec off. Contacts looked not perfect, but absolutely fine. I took a regular old toothbrush and essentially dusted off the tiniest smidgen of white corrosion (if you want to call it that. And holy torque batman! I ruined an allen getting thouse bolts off!

Still waiting on the t-stat on the cooling issue (see other thread: http://www.600riders.com/forum/gara...in-fishy-temps-supsect-t-stat.html#post534342)

That little bit of white is NOT good.. Did it appear to be coming from INSIDE the regulator?

 

[pookamatic]

No - on the contacts themselves. They really looked fine. For all I know, the white dust could have been old toothpaste. Should I put dielectric grease on them before reassembly?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

No - on the contacts themselves. They really looked fine. For all I know, the white dust could have been old toothpaste. Should I put dielectric grease on them before reassembly?

The dilectric grease would keep corrosion from coming back, IMHO, I'd put just a thin covering on.. :thumbup:

 

[pookamatic]

So I got everything back together... Starting to get real good with this.

I didn't bother with grease. As I said, there was no corrosion. 12.78 volts before I left this morning, 12.91 at one an hour after I arrived. I think all this CEL crap is due to the grips, which are coming and staying off when I get FZ1 bars. I'll cross the cold digits bridge again in the fall.

 

[FinalImpact]

So I got everything back together... Starting to get real good with this.

I didn't bother with grease. As I said, there was no corrosion. 12.78 volts before I left this morning, 12.91 at one an hour after I arrived. I think all this CEL crap is due to the grips, which are coming and staying off when I get FZ1 bars. I'll cross the cold digits bridge again in the fall.

Any updates after the weekend? Did you ride it?

 

[yamihoe]

I had my CEL come on when riding in HEAVY rain, with the duel headlight, and high beams on, and my flashers on for over an hour......it too did EXACTLY the same thing.....came on at a light, and went off as soon as I went to accelerate... mine was a low battery voltage issue...my Neutral light was staying on constantly (because of the water everywhere) by the end of my terrible trek.....

I would not worry about it too much until it is a more frequent thing.....