Clutch lever hard to pull??? The FIX!!!

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Yes, the engine runs no problem, I don't feel like there is enough drag to move the bike, I'm hoping it's the mid section adjustment. And I will check the front sprocket nut - and WILL be pissed if they screwed it up because the main reason I went to the licenced dealership to replace the sprockets is I read here that nut can be tricky.

Just re-read your first post, the clutch is slipping while riding. period..

Disregard the ft sprocket check..

Sounds as if the cable is too tight (perhaps hanging up somewhere during the install) not allowing the plates to completely press back together..

Why you have you proper free play on the lever end is odd with the issue. Should be one or the other..

 

[bricksrheavy]

Sorry, I don't understand what I bolded ^^^.

When the bike is stationary, in gear and with the clutch fully pulled in there isn't enough drag on the plates to make it move but the drag obviously exists since I cant move the rear wheel by hand even though the clutch is fully squeezed.

The engine runs fine, will it idle in gear (W/O noticeable drag)?

When riding does the clutch slip or work normally??

Didn't notice any changes with the way the engine runs or pulls.

PS
English is not my native language, sorry if I'm not being clear enough

 

[bricksrheavy]

Why you have you proper free play on the lever end is odd with the issue. Should be one or the other..

THIS exactly. Gonna experiment with the cable tomorrow, hopefully it'll sort out.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

When the bike is stationary, in gear and with the clutch fully pulled in there isn't enough drag on the plates to make it move but the drag obviously exists since I cant move the rear wheel by hand even though the clutch is fully squeezed.

Didn't notice any changes with the way the engine runs or pulls.

PS
English is not my native language, sorry if I'm not being clear enough

No problem..

Post #19 Quote : but now my clutch is slipping; end quote..

NOW, the engine, clutch, etc all work fine, NO SLIPPING WHILE RIDING CORRECT?

JUST, when you try to rotate the wheel in first gear, clutch pulled in, you can't turn the wheel, is THAT CORRECT?

 

[bricksrheavy]

No problem..

Post #19 Quote : but now my clutch is slipping; end quote..

NOW, the engine, clutch, etc all work fine, NO SLIPPING WHILE RIDING CORRECT?

Correct, no slipping, you corrected me in post #20

JUST, when you try to rotate the wheel in first gear, clutch pulled in, you can't turn the wheel, is THAT CORRECT?

Yes, correct, the wheel feels completely locked like the clutch is not pulled in but it is - and when I try to push the bike (in 1st gear, clutch pulled in) I can feel the drag but I can move it. So, it's hard enough not to be able to be moved by hand but not hard enough not to be able to push the bike.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Correct, no slipping, you corrected me in post #20

Yes, correct, the wheel feels completely locked like the clutch is not pulled in but it is - and when I try to push the bike (in 1st gear, clutch pulled in) I can feel the drag but I can move it. So, it's hard enough not to be able to move it by hand but not hard enough not to be able to push the bike.

Okay. I just checked mine.

Its about 85F in the garage, bike is cold. In neutral, with chain drag, etc. I can spin the rear wheel with some drag (oil, chain, gear box drag, etc). In first gear (still cold-not running), clutch pulled in, its PROBABLY twice as hard to spin by hand, but does spin.

With that said, my clutch engagement is about in the middle of the lever travel.


You mentioned yours is now closer. You may want to tighten up the adjuster (mid or at the lever) to bring it out some. That should help with the "extra" drag as well as putting your engagement zone back where it should be.

**IE, I don't see you having a problem to speak of, just tighten up the cable a bit and test ride (make sure there's NO slipping under power)...

Do you need the owners manual for spec's? I have it as a PDF if so..

 

[bricksrheavy]

Thanks, I have the owners manual. Got some serious fiddling to do, hopefully I'll sort it out with enough time left to go for a decent ride 'cause I've been looking forward to one this whole week.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I think you'll find with the engine warmed up/hot, there's less drag but as long as the clutch is dis-engaging fully and the bike operates fine, your good.

I can say, with my new cable, the pull "feel" (very hard to describe), is now definitely different than before. ..

Please post back after your final adjustments, checks...

 

[bricksrheavy]

Update;

So I re-checked the cable and it's fine, two of mine riding buddies dropped by also and confirmed I did nothing wrong. Seems like the plates are sticking, we tried to unstick them by pushing the bike around but no result.

The only two things that changed recently are the clutch cable and oil (I put Motul 7100 10W40 500-600 km ago).

I'm gonna take it to the mechanic tomorrow and report back with his findings. At this point I just want to get it fixed whatever the cost since it's my only mean of transport.

https://youtu.be/uQu-LkK8ZGA

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

For clutches that don't release fully there are several possibilities:

(1) warped clutch plates dragging. Clutch plate replacement would be the fix (if so pay attention to the manual as they go in in a specific order).

(2) the clutch basket has a bunch of wear on the edges of the "fingers"

(2) the bearing on the clutch release plate, part #1 (which has failed on just a few bikes):



IE, it doesn't pull out the disc fully, easily changed while that cover is off inspecting / replacing plates.

Looking at your video, it appears to be releasing fully.

OEM clutch plates and that bearing (excluding the basket) isn't super expensive, generally an easy fix, W/O even draining the oil.


Question, did you happen to do this "test" with the old cable? If so, the results?

 

[bricksrheavy]

Question, did you happen to do this "test" with the old cable? If so, the results?

No, but every time I lube the chain I put the bike in gear and let it run for a while on the centerstand just to evenly distribute the lube so I would have noticed it before while lubing the chain. I don't have the tools nor knowledge to check the plates so it's off to the mech tomorrow.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

No, but every time I lube the chain I put the bike in gear and let it run for a while on the centerstand just to evenly distribute the lube so I would have noticed it before while lubing the chain. I don't have the tools nor knowledge to check the plates so it's off to the mech tomorrow.

Any updates? What'd your mechanic find?

 

[bricksrheavy]

Any updates? What'd your mechanic find?

Didn't go yet, my work hours overlap his this week, so I'm gonna go on monday. Also after readjusting the cable on sunday there was a slight change in the symptoms;

Now when I put the bike on the center stand (both hot and cold engine) and shift into 1st with the clutch fully squeezed the rear wheel doesn't spin anymore - BUT, if I release the clutch (obviously the wheel starts to spin) and then squeeze it again then it keeps spinning - BUT, if I then apply the rear brake to stop the wheel the wheel doesn't spin up again when I release the brake (tried this several times in a row)

Honestly, I don't know what to think anymore, and considering that in the 7000 km that I've owned it (it has ~41000 km now) so far I changed the chain and sprockets, fork oil, steering bearings, brake pads + oil, coolant and throttle cable, I'm tired of spending money on it - and I am fully aware of how stupid that is considering I'm choosing to ignore something that could potentially lead to more expensive repairs.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Now when I put the bike on the center stand (both hot and cold engine) and shift into 1st with the clutch fully squeezed the rear wheel doesn't spin anymore - BUT, if I release the clutch (obviously the wheel starts to spin) and then squeeze it again then it keeps spinning - BUT, if I then apply the rear brake to stop the wheel the wheel doesn't spin up again when I release the brake (tried this several times in a row)

This ^^^^, with the engine running, is ABSOLUTELY NORMAL.

Gentleman's bet! Your mechanic gives you the all clear once you go in.

Your bikes good, don't sweat it...

Please post back once done...


*Just re-adjusted my mid section adjuster (stretched a bit) and lubed- a bit easier, just with todays lube..


Also, re the parts you replaced. Their all wear and tear items.. All bikes, cars, etc will have wear.

It's whole bunch cheaper than a new bike and cheaper should you decide (and are able/willing) to
learn about the bikes mechanical's. The only thing I haven't done you have is head bearings and throttle cable.
About 24,000 miles plus a battery, clutch cable.

 

[bricksrheavy]

Gentleman's bet! Your mechanic gives you the all clear once you go in.

Your bikes good, don't sweat it...

Please post back once done...

UPDATE;

Just got back from the mech, all is well with the bike. Thanks for all the help, I owe you a case of beer!

 

[FinalImpact]

Mine hasn't moved in months, fired it off and on high idle it had to be going 25mph but the gauge read zero!

Very normal to have thin film drag.

How bad does it clunk when dropped into gear? In the video. IMO, not enough free play but it has been adjusted since.

As said, pushing the bike in gear (engine off) will offer a lot of resistance. If in neutral, it still pushes hard, check the brakes!

Rep point to Scott!

 

[bricksrheavy]

...
How bad does it clunk when dropped into gear? In the video. IMO, not enough free play but it has been adjusted since.
...

I would call it normal. There is a distinct clunk but nothing extreme and finding neutral is also very easy and precise.
The freeplay in the vid was set to minimum to give me all the leverage I can get on the clutch lever since I thought the plates are not disconnecting.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Mine hasn't moved in months, fired it off and on high idle it had to be going 25mph but the gauge read zero!

" it had to be going 25mph but the gauge read zero! " What gauge and did you mean cold idle was very high?

 

[FinalImpact]

Poor choice of words on my part.... cold start on high idle on the center stand rear tire was spinning fast from cold oil drag.... Something I've never noticed is if key is on and the rear tire spinning *while trans is in Neutral*, the speedo does not report speed...

Had this been a video vs still shot it would be happening right here...

When riding if I'm stopped to break and there is a hill I'll coast and bump start. The thing is I never noticed the Speedo not reading. No reason to look I guess.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Oh, ok. I never start on the CC (unless doing a sync), always on the side-stand (in neutral).

But then again, the bike doesn't see hibernation either...

*No red trim on rear rim to match the front?