Cold start, momentary tick from valve cover.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

As the title states, I've recently developed a cold start tick that originates under the upper right side valve cover.

Its only when the engine is cold and goes away within 2 seconds of starting.

Oil has been 7100 and was recently changed.

The engine is quiet the rest of time, runs great. Just a tad over 21,000 miles.

I suspect a loose valve BUT, it goes away immediately???


Will a slightly loose valve, valve tick go away with oil pressure?

Thanks

 

[Motogiro]

Hmmm... Maybe oil pressure related but that might mean that oil drains away from the cam bearing cap. You might pull the cover and recheck valve clearances and check torque on the cap bolts?

 

[Love@FirstRide]

Yeah I'd say it might be one of your valve lifters taking a second to get oil pressure in and pushing it up. I'd recommend some BG-44k in there. It's a great product in my opinion and stopped some cold start valve lifter noise in a mirage my mom had.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Yeah I'd say it might be one of your valve lifters taking a second to get oil pressure in and pushing it up. I'd recommend some BG-44k in there. It's a great product in my opinion and stopped some cold start valve lifter noise in a mirage my mom had.

Looking at the BG-44k, its a fuel additive, not an oil additive. There's no lifters to speak of, just the valves, shim, bucket, then camshaft. It sounds like the #4 valve is what ticks occasionally.

I did find this product, BG107-engine oil treatment:

Amazon.com: Bg107 Rf7 Engine Oil Treatment 11oz. Can By Bg Products: Automotive

I found this which I think is better yet:
Amazon.com: Bg MOA Part # 110 Engine Oil Supplement: Automotive


My only concern with this product how it will affect the clutch (slippage).


I don't think the valves are out of spec as its quiet the rest of the time.

I'll try and call the company, see if its ok with the clutch... Thanks..

 

[FinalImpact]

It's just outside the service window mileage wise, why not pull the cover and check it!?

The only downside is having a fresh belly full of oil as opening it up will place something into circulation that wasn't there before. I rode mine for 20" and dumped it. Same with coolant (water flush).

 

[Love@FirstRide]

your right we don't have hydraulic lifter. My bad lol. The BG- series of products is really good though. It's the only thing besides some Lucas we ever use on cars at the Mechanic I work at.

I meant i recommend the BG MOA, but I'm not sure how it would affect the clutch, I thought we didn't have a hydraulic clutch either?

 

[bpchura]

Love@firstride, we dont have a hydraulic clutch but the clutch plates do ride in an oil bath and could slip if something other than oil gets in there.

Townsends, could you get a video? I really dont think it could be anything that bad if it goes away so quickly. It would be worth opening up the cam cover and checking it out. It could be something out of whack but like what I said, I doubt its anything big. A video would help gauge the severity of the sound. I wouldnt worry yet!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

It's just outside the service window mileage wise, why not pull the cover and check it!?

The only downside is having a fresh belly full of oil as opening it up will place something into circulation that wasn't there before. I rode mine for 20" and dumped it. Same with coolant (water flush).

Well, it didn't do it this am....Nor later after it cooled down again.

And it doesn't do it all the time. I would think it'd be "ticky" all the time, just for literally a second or two tops...And
the 7100 isn't two months old

I did read a post you (FI) had re the bucket not spinning and of course that would cause undue wear on the cam/bucket.

I bounced it off the rev limiter today twice, (just to open up any potential slightly closed oil passages, if there are some.

I just don't want to pull it apart and find nothing, everything in spec's.

I suspect I'll order a shim kit and side cover gasket and tackle it if it keeps up.

 

[FinalImpact]

your right we don't have hydraulic lifter. My bad lol. The BG- series of products is really good though. It's the only thing besides some Lucas we ever use on cars at the Mechanic I work at.

I meant i recommend the BG MOA, but I'm not sure how it would affect the clutch, I thought we didn't have a hydraulic clutch either?

That implies WHAT actuates the cluth. Lever and cable or lever to hydraulics like the brakes...

Clutch fiber material cares about the oils make up. Some ingredients can induce clutch slip on an otherwise healthy oil type clutch. Like Energy saving oils...


I adjusted valve lash on mine at 19,000 mi as 3 exhausts were loose and tapping...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I adjusted valave lash on mine at 19,000 mi as 3 exhausts were loose and tapping...

I remember you doing yours early but I believe yours tapped all the time, correct? (and not terribly loud),

Is it normal for an out of spec valve to tick for a moment then stop??

IME, once ticking (if out of spec), it should continue to tick, no?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Townsends, could you get a video? I really dont think it could be anything that bad if it goes away so quickly. It would be worth opening up the cam cover and checking it out. It could be something out of whack but like what I said, I doubt its anything big. A video would help gauge the severity of the sound. I wouldnt worry yet!

This am, I purposely set it outside and cranked it with my ear to the valve cover to try and narrow it down-NO tick at all, nice and quiet (today).

I'll set up the camera with audio tomorrow and the next day till (if) it does it again. It has to be "overnight, dead cold" to do it-sometimes....

 

[FinalImpact]

Thats why parts have nominal clearance at given temperatures. The exhaust is 1500F or so and that valve grows in length with temperature.

That said, seconds is not much time so it sounds like a lubrication issue where by once oil supply is refreshed everything is happy.

If it bothers you, go in and check it.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Just an update re BG oil products.

I contacted their main headquarters and was referred to the local dealer.

He stated, if I'm already running a full synthetic, it's the same thing as their product and to try a heavier weight (which I'm doing both).

I'll get an audio / video when it (if) does it again and post. Then likely order a shim kit and side gasket.


While on the subject, I was researching shim kits, (and reading ratings, etc). I found this wiseco kit. A bit more expensive but the cheaper sets (see below) seemed to have some variance in their "stated" shim size.:

Dirt Bike 2007 Yamaha FZ6 Wiseco Valve Shim Kit | MotoSport


I also found this cheaper kit with aparently some slight variances in stated thicknesses:
Amazon.com: Hot Cams HCSHIM01 Shim Kit: Automotive

I want to have a kit on hand, but also have the best as well.. Thoughts/ recommendations?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Went out to record a cold start up, video running, NICE AND QUIET-no video/audio

Just after that, I added a double dose of Yamaha's "Ring Free", which I run in all my gas powered machines.
The bikes runs very smooth anyway( but is even smoother with the double dose).

I'm thinking, perhaps a piece of crap maybe held a valve open a tad (causing the occasional tick). I have down some hard runs in the last week to blow out anything and its been quiet since.

Ordered a new digital MM/inches/fractions caliper (for checking shims) as my current, digital one didn't go down low enough. The auto conversion is pretty slick too:
Amazon.com: Neiko 01407A Electronic Digital Caliper with Extra-Large LCD Screen, 0-6 Inches: Home Improvement

The Ring Free, should anyone be interesting in: https://www.shopyamaha.com/product/details/ring-free-plus?b=Search&d=34
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED and VERY popular in the marine world..

 

[Love@FirstRide]

Good to hear it worked out! Mine sometimes seems ticky in 2ed gear low rpm until its warmed up, but sometimes it doesn't do it at all cold. I'm not going to chase my tail trying to figure it out since it rarely happens. I'll check valves at 26k. at 16k already got it last year with 8k so.. lol

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Good to hear it worked out! Mine sometimes seems ticky in 2ed gear low rpm until its warmed up, but sometimes it doesn't do it at all cold. I'm not going to chase my tail trying to figure it out since it rarely happens. I'll check valves at 26k. at 16k already got it last year with 8k so.. lol

Thanks.

On one hand, I don't think its the valve adjustment as it goes away immediately (when it did do it-maybe 5 times,knock on wood).

If it had stayed, the valve cover would have been off two weeks ago... If it starts up again, I'll order the shim kit and side
cover gasket and just tear into it...

Just odd thou. If it was an hydraulic lifter, it'd be the lifter itself or oil passages clogged/restricted to it..

I'd rather wait till the 26,600 miles as mine is quiet and runs great, no indication of of loose or tight valves..

 

[Zealot]

I feel like if it's only short term, it's probably okay. My CBR does some ticking and whirring sounds when I first start it, but come operating temperature it quiets down and sits smoothly.

Unless you're OCD and it's a matter of life and THAT DAMN TILE IS CROOKED!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I feel like if it's only short term, it's probably okay. My CBR does some ticking and whirring sounds when I first start it, but come operating temperature it quiets down and sits smoothly.

Unless you're OCD and it's a matter of life and THAT DAMN TILE IS CROOKED!

It hasn't done it since, so I think I'm fine for another couple thousand miles to 26,600 (knocking on wood!)..

 

[bpchura]

Some money saving advice: If you are going to reshim your bike, I wouldn't bother buying the whole shim kit. You might be able to switch a few around and may only end up needing a few shims. You should be able to go to any dealer and trade them out with the kits they have in stock. I think my dealer charged $3 a shim when I traded my older ones it. You never know your bike could be like the many who are still in spec after 26k!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Some money saving advice: If you are going to reshim your bike, I wouldn't bother buying the whole shim kit. You might be able to switch a few around and may only end up needing a few shims. You should be able to go to any dealer and trade them out with the kits they have in stock. I think my dealer charged $3 a shim when I traded my older ones it. You never know your bike could be like the many who are still in spec after 26k!

Thanks. That's been mentioned before.

I'm a "tool-a-holic" and would rather have a full set here. If one or two are out of spec, I can simply change just those out easily without mixing them up.

It also saves me time DRIVING up to the shop, maybe they have the correct one, maybe not (probably do).
I'd rather be self sufficient and not have to count on if the parts guy is going to say, naw, we have to order a Yamaha
shim, come back in a week..

I don't want to lay the bike up for more than this service, IE get in, and get out. Less crap, dust, etc to get in there..


I'd clean above the valve cover spotless before cracking it (that's never been done).

I've gotten on two occasions, a very minor "tick" initially on start up (almost inaudible).
When I initially posted, it was easily 3x's as loud so at this point, I'm not screwing with it, not yet at least.

At 26,600, it'd definitely get checked