cooling fan issues , is running continuously

[georgerdp]

Hi , I did today 100 miles with my fz6 .I left the bike for 4 Hours and when I switch it on with cold engine , the cooling fan start running continuously . What do you think can be the problem . Any advices . I have done d51 diagnostic test and there is all ok .
I have read the post done by horacemorris , but as I do not have that much experience I can not find the *The wiring to the sensor* or the sensor or Thermostat or the cooling fan relay .
Thanks for reading and if you got any advices or any picture how to locate that sensor I would be very grateful .

 

[FinalImpact]

Does the bike display it being cold when its cold or does it display HOT when its been sitting? This really changes what path we go down.

It sounds like the relay to the cooling fan is stuck on as you didn't say it reported being HOT when OFF. So the question is this; if you pull the relay and find it the ECM signal is active, (telling it to be on), then this becomes tricky as the ECM turns on the fan relay.

Under the left pod is a relay, should be 2nd one back.

On the later bikes (S2) the colors are:
Blue is power OUT to FAN. When the relay closes, this turns on the fan.
Green/Yellow trace is ECU Signal (Should be OPEN when cold). To test, connect test lamp or DMM to +12V battery, and this lead. When cold, the lamp should be off!
Brown/Black trace is power from the battery (we can isolate this signal by pulling the FUSE)
RED/White trace is Switched Power, comes on with key

In short: when you pull the relay and turn the key on, the fan should be OFF.
If your colors are not the same as these listed here, pull the relay and insert between GROUND and the suspect lead from the Fuse relay and then pull the fuse. When the lamp/meter goes off - this is the signal we need to keep track of.

Actually - I'm going to stop here until I know you have a meter or a test lamp. Do you have those?

Bottom line, I'm banking on the relay being stuck. Hopefully the switched contacts are marked and you can OHM between them.The switch should be OPEN all the time. If its shorted, that's why the fan is on.

See attached pic for details...

 

[FinalImpact]

I just realized and before Cliff corrects me, if the relay were stuck ON, the way the S2 are wired, the fan would remain on until the battery died. So, unless the S1 model is different, its not the relay...

FI is thinking....

 

[Motogiro]

I just realized and before Cliff corrects me, if the relay were stuck ON, the way the S2 are wired, the fan would remain on until the battery died. So, unless the S1 model is different, its not the relay...

FI is thinking....

Correct! Switched power to one side of relay coil and ECU provides the pull down on the other side of the coil. So if the key is off and fan turned off the relay is properly active. Sensor, ECU malfunction, or wire from pulldown side of the relay has been pinched to a ground path.

 

[Motogiro]

The sensor should be on the intake side of the engine block....

Here's an image of the sensor.

The sensor should read 5,000 to 6,000 ohms at 0 deg. C (32F) and 200 to 300 ohms at 80 deg. C (178F)

If you unplug the sensor and that stops the fan, replace the sensor.

Naturally you will have to drain engine coolant to install the new sensor. Unless you're really really fast! Lol!

 

[georgerdp]

The bike display it being cold when its cold and display hot when its hot . If engine is off and cold , the display is normal (no lines) and when is hot display 2-3 lines . That display works fine . My bike it is an 2004 so it is first generation .
I did swap the two relay between them and does the same .

The thing is , when I did finish my journey , I did go in DIAG menu and CO
and I did change CO1 CO2 when the fan was working . Basicaly after this I got the problem .
I did not ride in rain and I did not go faster then 75 mph.

I will buy tomorrow a test lamp to follow your advice . FinalImpact.

 

[Motogiro]

The bike display it being cold when its cold and display hot when its hot . If engine is off and cold , the display is normal (no lines) and when is hot display 2-3 lines . That display works fine . My bike it is an 2004 so it is first generation .
I did swap the two relay between them and does the same .

The thing is , when I did finish my journey , I did go in DIAG menu and CO
and I did change CO1 CO2 when the fan was working . Basicaly after this I got the problem .
I did not ride in rain and I did not go faster then 75 mph.

Disconnect the battery (negative lead) for 30 minutes. Reconnect and see if the fan is still on.

I'm wondering if there is a fan test and the test logic has the fan locked to on?

 

[georgerdp]

I will try with battery in the morning and I will have a look with a lamp test .
Few minutes ago engine was off , I took out relay (the second one for the fan ). I run the engine (the fan is off) I do kill engine by red switch on right and connect the relay back ....and the fan start to run with engine off, only the key on . Cold engine .

 

[FinalImpact]

I will try with battery in the morning and I will have a look with a lamp test .
Few minutes ago engine was off , I took out relay (the second one for the fan ). I run the engine (the fan is off) I do kill engine by red switch on right and connect the relay back ....and the fan start to run with engine off, only the key on . Cold engine .

Cliff's hint a pinched wire is a good one. +1

PS - I found a schematic for the early bikes. Wire colors are the same.

VERY IMPORTANT TEST:

• Remove relay.
• Find a +12V power source and connect your test lamp to it. The battery will work, but the Fan fuse power will work to so no need to lift the tank.
• Turn the key ON and touch the test lamp to the socket conductor where GREEN/YELLOW wire comes in. When the engine is COLD, 1 bar, your test lamp should not light.

If it does, we go after the pinched wire.
Basically disconnect battery and UNPLUG the ECM. Then test that Yellow green wire from our relay to earth ground for a short. An ohm meter would work, but so will our test lamp when connected to the battery +12V. If the lamp lights, we have a short to ground.

 

[Motogiro]

Cliff's hint a pinched wire is a good one. +1

PS - I found a schematic for the early bikes. Wire colors are the same.

VERY IMPORTANT TEST:

• Remove relay.
• Find a +12V power source and connect your test lamp to it. The battery will work, but the Fan fuse power will work to so no need to lift the tank.
• Turn the key ON and touch the test lamp to the socket conductor where GREEN/YELLOW wire comes in. When the engine is COLD, 1 bar, your test lamp should not light.

If it does, we go after the pinched wire.
Basically disconnect battery and UNPLUG the ECM. Then test that Yellow green wire from our relay to earth ground for a short. An ohm meter would work, but so will our test lamp when connected to the battery +12V. If the lamp lights, we have a short to ground.

On the pinched wire: Unplug ECU plug from ECU. Un plug the fan relay and test that green with yellow tracer wire for continuity to ground. No continuity, no pinched wire.

Most common failure is the sensor.... Unplug the sensor and if the fan stops...

 

[FinalImpact]

((SNIP))
Most common failure is the sensor.... Unplug the sensor and if the fan stops...

But, butt, butttt.... the Engine should read HOT if that is true and it doesn't! Granted IT IS the mostly likely candidate to cause a false reading on the display (too hot or too cold), but if the ECM thought the engine was hot, the display should indicate that.

EXCEPT; when the ECM is confused perhaps?! :don'tknow::don'tknow: The Recent CO adjust likely slipped a bit some how. Seems strange that would be the fall out.

2nd vote for disconnect the battery....

 

[georgerdp]

But, butt, butttt.... the Engine should read HOT if that is true and it doesn't! Granted IT IS the mostly likely candidate to cause a false reading on the display (too hot or too cold), but if the ECM thought the engine was hot, the display should indicate that.

EXCEPT; when the ECM is confused perhaps?! :don'tknow::don'tknow: The Recent CO adjust likely slipped a bit some how. Seems strange that would be the fall out.

2nd vote for disconnect the battery....

First thing in the morning , brush my teeth and I go to disconnect the battery . Hope this will fix the thing . I do understand why for some bikes you can not access DIAG and CO settings . I am not going there ever again.


One guy fixed this issue by ******Just to let people know that i've now sorted this problem.
The wiring to the sensor was really badly kinked and was shorting out inside the sleeving, after repairing this, re-routing it and cleaning the plug on the end with contact cleaner, it now works fine.
Thanks to those who offered helpful suggestions.******

How can I get to that wiring to the sensor ?

 

[Motogiro]

But, butt, butttt.... the Engine should read HOT if that is true and it doesn't! Granted IT IS the mostly likely candidate to cause a false reading on the display (too hot or too cold), but if the ECM thought the engine was hot, the display should indicate that.

EXCEPT; when the ECM is confused perhaps?! :don'tknow::don'tknow: The Recent CO adjust likely slipped a bit some how. Seems strange that would be the fall out.

2nd vote for disconnect the battery....

That does seem logical but how the ECU outputs to the sensor could mean that either leg of the loop going full/partial to ground within the sensor may cause a malfunction where the varistor is still visable to the ECU but the ECU knows there is a bad path on one of the legs and defaults to the fan being on. Simply pulling the plug from the sensor may eliminate that path and you might see the fan stop.

If it were just a single output to engine ground as a varistor function I would agree the sensor reading and the fan logic would be the same but in this case we could have another path.

 

[FinalImpact]

Bike was sitting and I scrolled through the menu...
D:06 at 72°F I'd think little tidbits like this would have made isolating this easier. So, what was the problem with getting into the menu? Well unless your instrument buttons don't work well.


Also, I'm guessing the damage is back by the swing arm? What do you mean by access it?

Not sure if this will work - gif of selected S2 diagnostic states. Much less what the actual need is? :don'tknow: Playing with software!

 

[kenh]

opcorn:opcorn:opcorn:

First thing in the morning , brush my teeth and I go to disconnect the battery . Hope this will fix the thing .

:spank: The last time I forgot to brush my teeth before I disconnected the battery, damn, but seriously all ECU's need a reboot once in a while to clear the current memory and refresh.

 

[georgerdp]

Sorted out , thank you so much guys , after I did remove the battery and I did clean the contact for the sensor all came back to normal . thank you again , I can not explain how happy I am right now .


I do have a feeling as disconnecting the battery done the trick.