Dyno tune with CO adjustment Leo Vince

Motogiro

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Years ago I connected an Oscope to the injectors and ran those numbers up and down the flag pole. It makes zero since to fuel the cylinders differently while it does make since and was verified that c1 is for idle up. C2 is mid range.

If it were controlling fueling per cylinder vs range you could change one value only and see the plug color change on 2 cylinders as well as make your engine run rough. Neither of these are true.

JM2C....

Air and coolant sensors. None related to any pair of cylinders. No separate O2 sensors for pairs of cylinders. No O2 sensor for S-1 FZ6. Trust FinalImpact on his work done on this. :rockon:
 
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Wheelieking

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Whazzuuup Dudes, So first of all thanks for ther thread on this topic... I unplugged connector and installed ground wire but left it unplugged at first. Programmed C1 from +8 to 0 and C2 from +14 to +20. Plugged connector and removed ground wire.
Took her out for about 20min test drive, ran great. she picked up like a beast and power difference very noticeable indeed... Left her standing for a week... Took her out yesterday 1st, 2nd, 3rd, great peaked her revs twice for a second and she started bogging again.
Took her out this morning she didn't even pick up. Hit 7000RPM at 140km/h and just stays there bogging... any ideas? Oh I'm running twin Acrapovics decat
 

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Whazzuuup Dudes, So first of all thanks for ther thread on this topic... I unplugged connector and installed ground wire but left it unplugged at first. Programmed C1 from +8 to 0 and C2 from +14 to +20. Plugged connector and removed ground wire.
Took her out for about 20min test drive, ran great. she picked up like a beast and power difference very noticeable indeed... Left her standing for a week... Took her out yesterday 1st, 2nd, 3rd, great peaked her revs twice for a second and she started bogging again.
Took her out this morning she didn't even pick up. Hit 7000RPM at 140km/h and just stays there bogging... any ideas? Oh I'm running twin Acrapovics decat
:welcome: to this great forum!


Generally most ECU's have volatile memory. The ECU learns from the sensors after so many cold starts and warm ups. You might try disconnecting the negative lead on the battery and leaving it disconnected for 30 mins to an hour, reconnect and see if the the bike warms ups normally and then take it for a run but remember the the ECU should still be in the learning mode.

Was this procedure followed when the exhaust and decat were installed. Once you open up the back of the exhaust like that the mix will lean out, especially at idle.

Maybe you know someone with a sniffer who can tell you what your actual A:F numbers are.

Also there is the possibility that something else has changed not related to your CO adjustments.
 
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Wheelieking

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Thanks dude! Took your advice, disconnected battery for about 45 min and worked great! I've run her now a couple a times and whala! Power that I new she had but just couldn't put my finger on the problem... Now she looks good and runs great! Thanks to the forum too, you guys rock! Blah
 
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