Dyno tune with CO adjustment Leo Vince

[kawwikid]

Did you guy's remove the cat to get 98hp? Or is your stock cat still there?

i'm keeping the cat for now and will only remove the DP killers from the Laser Xtreme. That should give about 5HP over stock. Together with the PC-V i was hoping to get close to 98. Is that realistic without removing the cat? Because that should also give about 4hp extra.

I dont think the cats on the FZ6 are that restrictive. I had mine taken off and replaced with a straight pipe. When you look through it, its not like the cat on a car. You can see light. It is a heavy little sucker though. It weighed like 2lbs I think, by its self. Anyway, when I did that, I had also added Scorion Ti cans, and a PC3, a slight mod to the air box, and a BNC filter. My bike ended up with 95.6RWHP on one run and 96.2 on another. This was with a good custom tune. The trick that my tuner did for me, to get even more power out of the FZ6, was to dial in a set of cams from an R6s...He took the time to set the timing of the cams up which kept the power band right about stock. Having that done also gave a bit of mechanical compression as well, about 1/4 point more. The end results, 107.4 RWHP, and 49ftlbs..Not to shabby. And power starts right around 4500ish and revs out to 13k with no flat spots...nice....

Sean

 

[Bryan-]

How much/money did it cost to replace the camshaft with one from the R6? Besides that, what kind of airbox mod did you do? That's alot of RWHP :BLAA:

 

[kawwikid]

How much/money did it cost to replace the camshaft with one from the R6? Besides that, what kind of airbox mod did you do? That's alot of RWHP :BLAA:

For the air box, my tech and I took a good look at the lid, and what we came up with was the following. If your looking at the inside of the lid, at the part where the air is coming in the front of the box. We simply cut the back side of that plastic off, and left the front part of the plastic as a runner to direct the air into the air filter. Im going to have to try to take things apart and take a couple of pictures of what was done to the lid.
As for the camshafts. He charged me $50 for the cams, though, I gave him my stock ones in return. The shop that I use builds a lot of race bikes, and the R6/R6s where very common as a race bike for years. I think he had like 8 sets just sitting around, because a lot of guys where using either the Yamaha Kit cams for a race motor or some kind of Graves racing cam. After that it was another $200 to put the cams in, time them (which on my bike ended up being +4 intake and -2 exhaust) this also included a valve check, and having to run my bike on the dyno to make adjustments to the PC3, after the cams where in stalled. The cams didn't need timing wheels, since my tech likes to slot them himself. So figure I payed $250 for all that, part of the reason that it was cheap was that I do some exchange work for the shop (ie, computer work, phone work, things like that)...
As for the HP increase. Well my bike made 95-96RWHP with slip on cans, air filter and pc3, so another 10-11 with cams is not a stretch. The R6/R6s cams have a higher lift and a bit longer duration than the FZ6 cams. The cams alone, just dropped in, should net about 6-7hp..If you time them out right, take out the overlap, with proper valve adjustment, you can gain a 1/4 mechanical compression point. That with a higher lift cam is worth another 1 to 2 hp. Then with the dyno tune, to the cams, that can fine tune another 1 to 3 hp. Adds up, and 107 is not all that hard to get to, and not much off of what the R6s makes at the rear tire stock..

 

[kawwikid]

Just another thought about using the R6/R6s cams. Theres a lot of opinions on using cams on the FZ6. And yes just dropping the cams in, and running them at 0/0 will net you some hp, but it will move your power band up the RPM range. Taking the time to, time out the the cams (advance/retard) and take the over lap out, will not only get you the hp gain, but can put the power band back where the stock cams are/where.Every bike will be different in the amount of advance or retardation that the cams need. It will be based on cam chain wear/tension, and valve timing. My bike now has the same build up of power that came on at 4500ish just like stock and dose not fall off until just at/below 13k..I will say that the mid range, 5k to 7k has a smoother, stronger pull than the stock cams. Plus the idle has a nicer loop to it as well..R6/R6s cams are cheap. I have seen them on ebay for $50 to $100 dollars. And there plenty of breakers out there from race motors that got built up with kit parts. Its not the expensive of a mod, and the results when done right are good.
This is not the first time that I have done this to a bike. I had a 2000 Kawasaki ZRX1100 a few years ago. Great bike, but a bit under powered for an 1100. The motor was basically a ZX11 motor with its balls cut off, for more "mid-range power".. Sound familiar? So a lot of guys where dropping in ZX11 or Muzzy cams, which is what I did. My bike, which was making 104hp with Muzzy system, Ivans kit, jumped up to 118hp. Not bad, but the power band had moved up the RPM range. By timing the cams out, and also changing to a factory pro-2.5 jet kit, my ZRX now made 126hp and the power band was back to just about what the stockers was. Maybe 500 rpm higher at most.

 

[Bryan-]

Time to have a talk with my garage to check on the possibilities of modding my bike! :cheer:

 

[Astennu]

Bryan i see you also live in the nederlands. Let me know what they tell you. I'm also intersted.

But if i read it correctly you have to time them right else you do get more HP but lower power in the lower RPM range. And that what we do not want

105+ hp in a FZ6 sounds to good to be true

 

[Bryan-]

Yeah, I live near Maastricht FYI :rockon:

I'll let you know what they say :thumbup:

 

[Astennu]

Nijmegen over here So thats not to far away! Maybe there is a possibility for discount if we both go at the same time.

 

[Bryan-]

Krid80, I'm wondering if you have done anything with a new airfilter and PCV yet?

 

[krid80]

Krid80, I'm wondering if you have done anything with a new airfilter and PCV yet?

Our dyno computer took a dump. Hopefully we will get it going soon.

 

[Astennu]

any updates?

 

[krid80]

any updates?

No. As far as I know, we are still waiting on the new computer from dynojet. More than likely the boss hasn't ordered it due to slow business at the shop.

 

[tjuricic]

Hi guys,

I recently bought LeoVince for my 2nd hand 2008 FZ6S2 (so I don't know did first owner modify C0 settings).

Anyway I entered diag mode and scrolled lot through it - you can't break anything there right?

after some time I finally went to C0 mode and was surprised that my C1 and C2 setting were both set on value +2.

I proceeded and increase value for both to +22 - but that only made deceleration back-fire stronger? With original +2 on both setting there was hardly ever back fire on strong de-acceleration...

Is it possible that bike has already increased C0 setting on stock exhaust by first owner and I overdid it with +22 on both?
Also I did not have time to experiment lot (it started to rain heavy) but it seamed to me that bike is reeving slower on idle when I add gas?

 

[krid80]

The only way to accurately answer your question is for you to get the bike on a dyno.

 

[mootybb]

Hi,
Have had great results with these recomendations. I have the Leo Vince and K&n filter set up and went up 24 on both CO1/2.
My question is regarding the battery and wether or not the CO adjustment gets reset when the battery in disconnected. Do I need to readjust the CO after a battery dis -connect? Thanks

 

[g8anos]

SOS, important question ..

I had a blown fuse on my bike, nothing serious, the stop light didn't work.

In order to replace it the electrician/mechanic i assume disconnected the battery.

For the past days i think that the bike suddenly runs very rich.

It smells more than usual, and I saw black deposits on the mufflers of the Leo's.

Then I checked the C1 and C2 settings and, to my surprise, they where both 0!!!!!

The previous setting was something like c1= 16 and c2= 18 ...

How can the current number be smaller (0) and despite that, running apparently richer?

 

[1.8tbora]

Krid is the dyno up and running, I would like to come out there and get mine tuned with the Remus on it. What do you think it would cost me?

 

[krid80]

Krid is the dyno up and running, I would like to come out there and get mine tuned with the Remus on it. What do you think it would cost me?

Email me at [email protected] and we can make it happen.

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk

 

[Fizzer600]

how have i just found this thread....:spank:

i fitted leo vince sbk system in 2009 and have always looked at buying a pc5 or 10mins ago i had it in my basket.... to purchase

just been out to the fz6 changed c01 and c02 from stock zero settings (2009 uk bike) to +24 i notice a difference on tick over. the bike has gone from sunding like a v twin with really low tick over that no one has been able to fix to a healthy 1100rpm tick over and a twist of the throttle sounds like a blade or fire breathing inline 4:thumbup:

+24 still the recommended settings?

 

[Fizzer600]

so after the journey home, cornering felt a little werid no sure if this was due to the lack of on off feeling of the throttle?
plus in low gears the bike seemed to top out ...sounded like it was over revving although it wasnt....

i also forgot to take down factory values as i thought both c1 and c2 were 0 as i didnt relise i had to press both buttons again. can i disconnect the batery to reset them to factory?




looking at them now they are both 24 dose that mean they were actually at 0?

i mean if i went plus 24 on both would the bike of added i to the original setting? ie

if original seting were 10 and i put +24 would the bike of shown the seting as 34 or would i of needed to to go +34 when inputting the points?