Fog Lights Wiring

[Mattsfz6]

I got 2 fog lights with angel eye halos from amazon. Unit comes with one three mode main beam and an angel eye halo around it.

I connected the halo wires to the low beam on the wiring harness (works fine)

when I connected the main light wires to high beam.....the lights didnt run simultaneously.

so i can in fact use the high beam switch to toggle between the 3 modes but one light is always one mode ahead of the other...

hope that explains it

plz help

 

[Mattsfz6]

I got 2 fog lights with angel eye halos from amazon. Unit come with one three mode main beam and an angel eye halo around it.

I connected the halo wires to the low beam on the wiring harness (works fine)

when I connected the main light wires to high beam.....the lights didnt run simultaneously.

so i can in fact use the high beam switch to toggle between the 3 modes but one light is always one mode ahead of the other...

hope that explains it

plz help

it was a short :cheer:

 

[Motogiro]

Sounds like you have got it squared away.
Lighting for your setup and headlight switching on the FZ6 can be a little less straight forward. If you had a short current would have gone high on that circuit would have blow a fuse making the circuit unusable until the short was repaired and the fuse was replaced. Maybe you had an open path?

If you have an OEM faired version of the FZ6 it came with the low beam circuit constant on even the the high beam were activated. If the bike was modified to have both low beam headlights on at the same time the low beam circuit will shut off when the high beam is active. Since the halos are common to the running light circuit and are low current you could run the halos of the running light circuit.

The OEM wired headlight circuit does not become active till after the engine has started.

 

[agf]

Sounds like you have got it squared away.
Lighting for your setup and headlight switching on the FZ6 can be a little less straight forward. If you had a short current would have gone high on that circuit would have blow a fuse making the circuit unusable until the short was repaired and the fuse was replaced. Maybe you had an open path?

If you have an OEM faired version of the FZ6 it came with the low beam circuit constant on even the the high beam were activated. If the bike was modified to have both low beam headlights on at the same time the low beam circuit will shut off when the high beam is active. Since the halos are common to the running light circuit and are low current you could run the halos of the running light circuit.

The OEM wired headlight circuit does not become active till after the engine has started.

Hi Cliff,
this is the circuit I have decided to tap into for my extra light mounted low on the engine. I figure this will be best if I should ever need to have just parking lights on. The only thing I am not sure off and need to look at the wiring diagram is the colour coding for this. OIt would be great to get the poer feed after the engine switch but before the hi/low beam switch on the bars so the extra light is not affected by what ever I need to use on the road. Do you know if that power feed is unde the tank or only behind the headlight, and you wouldn't know by chance what colour and tracer the wire might be?
I bought a suitable fused relay and I have a feed from the battery to run the stebel horn so I just have to find enough space to pack it all in, maybe under the left hand pod as I havent crammed anything in ther yet!!

cheers
ade

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

[/COLOR]
Hi Cliff,
this is the circuit I have decided to tap into for my extra light mounted low on the engine. I figure this will be best if I should ever need to have just parking lights on. The only thing I am not sure off and need to look at the wiring diagram is the colour coding for this. OIt would be great to get the poer feed after the engine switch but before the hi/low beam switch on the bars so the extra light is not affected by what ever I need to use on the road. Do you know if that power feed is unde the tank or only behind the headlight, and you wouldn't know by chance what colour and tracer the wire might be?
I bought a suitable fused relay and I have a feed from the battery to run the stebel horn so I just have to find enough space to pack it all in, maybe under the left hand pod as I havent crammed anything in ther yet!!

cheers
ade

Tap your relay into your FRONT, DIRECTIONAL RUNNING LIGHTS.

Comes on with ignition switch, not running. BUT, you'll have to leave the key in and on.

You may consider a completely separate circuit with an on / off switch so you don't have to leave your key in.
Fused direct to the battery would be fine..

Re the relay, I use commercial grade velcro to hold extra relays, power distribution blocks inside the fairing. Works great (and not permanent)!


My power distribution block, velcroed in:

 

[agf]

Tap your relay into your FRONT, DIRECTIONAL RUNNING LIGHTS.

Comes on with ignition switch, not running. BUT, you'll have to leave the key in and on.

You may consider a completely separate circuit with an on / off switch so you don't have to leave your key in.
Fused direct to the battery would be fine..

Re the relay, I use commercial grade velcro to hold extra relays, power distribution blocks inside the fairing. Works great (and not permanent)!


My power distribution block, velcroed in:

Thanks Scott, did think of independant switching , just trying to avoid too much wiring on the naked, so i also have limited space for the velcro idea, but i like that as a concept


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Motogiro]

Sorry I'm getting back to this late. Recently I posted a relay setup for a member needing heated grip control for power from the battery. I will post the same schematic. This circuit works for anything needing power directly independent of loading down wiring for other circuits of the bike. This is also a great way to power accessories in case there is a problem, keeping the problem circuit isolated from possible damage to the rest of the bike's harness.

This schematic also shows an inline switch (your grip switch) that you will not use. The numbers on the relay are common which will help you easily make the proper connections. I like to solder my wires to the relay posts and insulate them from each other using RTV silicone and then a heatstrink cover. you can prebuild the assembly with longer wires which would help in optional locations for where the relay will live.

 

[Motogiro]

Also [MENTION=15723]agf[/MENTION] The running light wires at/near the front of the bike will be Blue on one side of the bike and Blue with a Red tracer on the other side of the bike.

Edit: These blue wires should be from the harness that feeds the left and right directional lights.

 

[Mattsfz6]

Sounds like you have got it squared away.
Lighting for your setup and headlight switching on the FZ6 can be a little less straight forward. If you had a short current would have gone high on that circuit would have blow a fuse making the circuit unusable until the short was repaired and the fuse was replaced. Maybe you had an open path?

If you have an OEM faired version of the FZ6 it came with the low beam circuit constant on even the the high beam were activated. If the bike was modified to have both low beam headlights on at the same time the low beam circuit will shut off when the high beam is active. Since the halos are common to the running light circuit and are low current you could run the halos of the running light circuit.

The OEM wired headlight circuit does not become active till after the engine has started.

Motogiro, you guessed it. There was an open path in the system. After i fixed that the problem got fixed... for a while.

Now about 50% of the time, when I start the bike the lights have matching modes, the other half they start unmatching. I am so confused..

They are connected to the same wire.

Any ideas?

 

[Motogiro]

Motogiro, you guessed it. There was an open path in the system. After i fixed that the problem got fixed... for a while.

Now about 50% of the time, when I start the bike the lights have matching modes, the other half they start unmatching. I am so confused..

They are connected to the same wire.

Any ideas?

What determines when both of those light are powered? If there is a logic circuit that causes them to switch modes what is it? How do the lights switch modes?

 

[Mattsfz6]

What determines when both of those light are powered? If there is a logic circuit that causes them to switch modes what is it? How do the lights switch modes?

They are powered thru the high beam wire. So when I flip on the high beam, the two lights (should) come on in MODE1.

Turn off the high beam and turn it back on, you are in MODE2. Do it again, MODE3.

Problem is the first time i get on the bike and turn it on, one light starts on MODE 1 and the the other on MODE2.

i hope i understood your question right

 

[Motogiro]

They are powered thru the high beam wire. So when I flip on the high beam, the two lights (should) come on in MODE1.

Turn off the high beam and turn it back on, you are in MODE2. Do it again, MODE3.

Problem is the first time i get on the bike and turn it on, one light starts on MODE 1 and the the other on MODE2.

i hope i understood your question right

You did understand my question correctly.

Since the lights you are using change mode by on and off states within a time period once the circuit is active, noise from the Hi/Lo beam switch itself may be the cause of the problem. This isn't noise that is audible. It is noise caused by the contact being dirty or oxidized. To the incandescent headlamp that noise means nothing and unless it was a severe contact issue we would not notice the noise anomaly with our eye. Never the less the noise can exist and it will look like an on/off signal to the logic circuitry that changes the mode of the light assembly.

There may be several ways to eliminate this noise. The first thing you might try is an electrolitic capacitor. Here's a link to an example that you might purchase. https://www.radioshack.com/products...MIgpGZ2oy91wIVx45-Ch3pNAbiEAQYAyABEgKle_D_BwE

If you have an electronics parts store in your area you should be able to purchase what you need. One lead on the capacitor will go to the positive lead wire that feeds your light. The negative lead of the capacitor will go to the black wire or ground. This may eliminate the noise anomalies that are triggering the uneven mode change of your lights.

The capacitor is a cheap component for it won't be a costly fix or failure.

4700uF 35V 20% Axial-Lead Electrolytic Capacitor. Notice the arrow on the capacitor point to the negative lead of the capacitor.

 

[Mattsfz6]

You did understand my question correctly.

Since the lights you are using change mode by on and off states within a time period once the circuit is active, noise from the Hi/Lo beam switch itself may be the cause of the problem. This isn't noise that is audible. It is noise caused by the contact being dirty or oxidized. To the incandescent headlamp that noise means nothing and unless it was a severe contact issue we would not notice the noise anomaly with our eye. Never the less the noise can exist and it will look like an on/off signal to the logic circuitry that changes the mode of the light assembly.

There may be several ways to eliminate this noise. The first thing you might try is an electrolitic capacitor. Here's a link to an example that you might purchase. https://www.radioshack.com/products...MIgpGZ2oy91wIVx45-Ch3pNAbiEAQYAyABEgKle_D_BwE

If you have an electronics parts store in your area you should be able to purchase what you need. One lead on the capacitor will go to the positive lead wire that feeds your light. The negative lead of the capacitor will go to the black wire or ground. This may eliminate the noise anomalies that are triggering the uneven mode change of your lights.

The capacitor is a cheap component for it won't be a costly fix or failure.

4700uF 35V 20% Axial-Lead Electrolytic Capacitor. Notice the arrow on the capacitor point to the negative lead of the capacitor.

Thank you for the reply. I will give this a try and report back.