Fuel pump replacement

[pmmcanon]

Meanwhile you're all sleeping (8 hours difference ) I continue with my test.

As this is a tough problem, that could have had very bad consecuences (fire...) I think I must descrive all in detail to get the max help from you but also not making anybody loose his time. I must say I really appreciate your expert help and advices.

My Background: I'm familiar with 2 strokes engines (race and street) and have a reasonable ammount of tools (good ones), but not much experience in 4 strokes, so sometimes I'll ask for detailed instructions in dismount/mount some elements.

The bike background: Fazer 600 S2 ABS 2008. The bike is stock but the silencers that are Mivv-Carbon, also installed a KN air filter. It has been stopped for 5 years, parked in a garden with a good cover to protect it but there are some parts with rust (as you can see in the pics of sparks) mainly due to condensation/humidity. It was parked with some fuel that obviously evaporate leaving a good ammount of mud inside the tank. First thing I did was cleaning the tank, then I found the pump was affected (the reason for this post) and changed it to a denso one, between this I found an R6 old Pump and used it to check if all the fuel injection system was ok, it worked. I mounted everything and have been driving 130 Km with some ocassional stalls (not very serious) mainly when the bike was cold, as soon it gets temperature it worked ok until the yesterday episode...

At this time I've checked the sparks (Pics attached) and now dismounting the injection system, but a little bit scared because the screws are really tight and surely with some glue coming from the factory. I remember I was told to use an impact screwdriver to untighten them but not very sure. I'm gonna stop at this stage to hear from you the better way of dismounting procedure (or any advice from your side).
I also checked the exhaust line and there are no leaks or hot gases getting out nowhere.

I'll wait for your instructions
KR

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If screws are attached with say red loctite(super HD), apply some heat to the threaded area. It take a fair amount (not glowing red) to break it loose.

Obviously, any other stuck bolt penetrating oil, a hand impact tool(see below), some heat, same tricks as any other engine/machine.

Might want to do a leak down test just to cover the basics(solid internals of the engine) but I suspect there's still crap in the fueling system...

Also, for re-installing those spark plug caps, put a little dielectric grease where the rubber part of the cap touches the valve cover. It'll pop in WAY EASIER and you'll hear the cap click onto the spark plug. That rubber gets hard with all the heat cycles and age.

 

[pmmcanon]

Any particular order to dismount this? I've got an impact screwdriver and heat gun now (fully armed )
thks

 

[Gary in NJ]

When I first looked at the plugs I thought they looked geat...but on closer inspection the insulator is just too white...too clean...too lean.

 

[pmmcanon]

When I first looked at the plugs I thought they looked geat...but on closer inspection the insulator is just too white...too clean...too lean.

Thanks Gary, so this points to a fuel line causing poor mixture? I'm now dismounting the fuel rail and see what happen

 

[Gary in NJ]

You mentioned that the bike has been kept outside for years without use. Your bike uses an Oxygen Sensor as part of the fuel management system. It might be worth conducting a resistance test on the O2 sensor to make sure that it is still within specification. These can get corrosion from sitting in damp/humid environments. I'd also disconnect the connector, spray with contact cleaner and reassemble with dielectric grease. In fact, I'd probably clean and grease all of the vital connectors that feed data to the ECU.

I'm not saying that this is the problem, but it will eliminate the sensors as a potential problem.

 

[pmmcanon]

You mentioned that the bike has been kept outside for years without use. Your bike uses an Oxygen Sensor as part of the fuel management system. It might be worth conducting a resistance test on the O2 sensor to make sure that it is still within specification. These can get corrosion from sitting in damp/humid environments. I'd also disconnect the connector, spray with contact cleaner and reassemble with dielectric grease. In fact, I'd probably clean and grease all of the vital connectors that feed data to the ECU.

I'm not saying that this is the problem, but it will eliminate the sensors as a potential problem.

Hi Gary, unfortunately I haven't got a polymeter to check it... You mean this sensor (pict attached)?

 

[pmmcanon]

Now I've dismount the fuel rail and cleaned it, the injectors doesn't look bad but who knows if they are clogged. Maybe I'll try to check them through carb cleaner bottle and activating them with the battery?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Any particular order to dismount this? I've got an impact screwdriver and heat gun now (fully armed )
thks

No idea, never had one apart.

Here is a link for the PARTS Diagram which should help some... Do you have a shop manual(the complete break down of the TB's are NOT in the manual).

Yamaha Motorcycle 2008 OEM Parts Diagram for Intake 2 | Partzilla.com

Buy OEM Parts for Yamaha Motorcycle 2008 Intake 2 Diagram

www.partzilla.com

I would check the O2 system, etc, as Gary posted as well. Crappy connections, as you know, can cause all kinds of issues...

.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Now I've dismount the fuel rail and cleaned it, the injectors doesn't look bad but who knows if they are clogged. Maybe I'll try to check them through carb cleaner bottle and activating them with the battery?

I'm not sure if their activated with 12 volts or 5 volts, might do a search. I believe there's small basket filters in there too...

 

[Gary in NJ]

I believe I've read (from Cliff) that it's a pulse (PWM) and not a constant voltage. A constant voltage may damage the injectors.

 

[Gary in NJ]

Hi Gary, unfortunately I haven't got a polymeter to check it... You mean this sensor (pict attached)?

I can't see the part number on the connector, so I'm not sure. If that leads to the O2 sensor, then that's it. Contact cleaner, a shot of 30 psi air and some dielectric grease will have the connectors performing like new.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The injectors are (if like Yamaha OB engines) are activated by grounding the injector (by the ECU).
IE, positive power is always on (key on) to the injectors.

 

[pmmcanon]

I'm not sure if their activated with 12 volts or 5 volts, might do a search. I believe there's small basket filters in there too...

Well, I cannot see any filter, at least visible from outside, and as far as I can see there are no dismountable parts in the inyector... I was planning to use a 9V battery to make the checks but now I'm in doubt if this can damage the inyectors

 

[pmmcanon]

I believe I've read (from Cliff) that it's a pulse (PWM) and not a constant voltage. A constant voltage may damage the injectors.

There are many tutorials in Youtube applying short tension cycles, but sure you are right... so I'm stuck now with the testing...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Post # 22 & 24: https://www.600riders.com/threads/bike-wont-start.59643/page-2#post-645449

Seems it is 12 volts MOMENTARILY.

 

[pmmcanon]

I can't see the part number on the connector, so I'm not sure. If that leads to the O2 sensor, then that's it. Contact cleaner, a shot of 30 psi air and some dielectric grease will have the connectors performing like new.

It's 5vx-82380-00 and in the parts manual indicates Presure Sensor, I've checked also the TPS sensor and seems to be under specs using the diag mode

 

[pmmcanon]

and... taking apart the problem... You guys Rock . Thanks a lot for your time and efforts to help me, really really appreciate it.

 

[Gary in NJ]

In the parts data it shows the O2 Sensor as 2D1-8592A-00-00. The sensor itself is found at the right side of the header pipe just before the flange where it connects to the cat pipe. You'll have to follow the wire from there. Don't forget that temperature, throttle position, rpm....are all sensors that feed data to the ECU as well.

 

[pmmcanon]

Now thinking on how to perform an inyector test...

Before mounting I'll check all the sensors conectors and will clean&grease them