Fuel pump replacement

pmmcanon

Member
Thanks Scott, following your advice a Carbtune Pro 4 is arriving soon ;).
Pretty sure is a balancing/adjusting issue, the idle circuit is very simple: just a cylinder with some shapes that match the body of the Tb sync module, it can only act over air (allowing more or less flow) and surely is highly affected by a misbalanced screws as all the inner shapes are connected. Playing this morning with the tb screws I've reached a "compromise" point where there is some stall when cold and practically nothing when warm. Keep you informed when sinchro is done.
Only 1 point to be sure: Assuming all the screws are wrong, I should primary adjust a certain value in cylinder 1 and then synchronize the rest... As far as I remenber the vacuum ref should be 21 HG/cm2?
KR
 

TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6
Site Supporter
Assuming all the screws are wrong, I should primary adjust a certain value in cylinder 1 and then synchronize the rest... As far as I remenber the vacuum ref should be 21 HG/cm2?
KR
It's a great investment and mines paid for itself several times over. Actually had to re-do a YAMAHA facility that f...ed up the sync on my old FJR.... Anyway.

I'm at sea level and I couldn't get the base screw/adjustment anywhere near what the factory called for for my FZ..

I used the sync tool on my FZ to get rid of a buzz coming thru the seat and a little thru the rt grip.
I know the bike was never synced (I knew the original owner and maintenance).

Being 11 YEARS ago, when I did the first sync, I played with the base screw a little, I couldn't get it to where Yamaha wanted it so set it back to where it was, just shy of ONE TURN OPEN from lightly seated.. The TB's weren't out much at (actually within 10mm spec's), BUT getting it within 2-3 MM's did get rid of the buzz (darn near sold it as it was literally a PIA).

I haven't sync'ed it in years as it's apparently been holding with super smooth operation all around.. (I did maybe 3-4 sync's since, in 11 years).

Bottom line (IME), set the base screw around 7/8's and then adjust the others to that. You can always tighten or loosen the base screw slightly if need be. As posted earlier, (once everything is pretty much working correctly), if you cannot get a high enough idle/adjustment-OPEN the #1 base screw and that'll give you more "adjustability" and the idle screw will now work properly.
 

pmmcanon

Member
Ordered also a vacuum gauge, it's cheap and wanna try to put cylinder 1 into specifications (or close), I dismounted the whole TB and now the #1 is out of his primary place. Anyway I'll take your advice over starting the #1 between 3/4 to 1 turn from seated.
 

trepetti

It's all good!
Elite Member
Site Supporter
Ordered also a vacuum gauge, it's cheap and wanna try to put cylinder 1 into specifications (or close), I dismounted the whole TB and now the #1 is out of his primary place. Anyway I'll take your advice over starting the #1 between 3/4 to 1 turn from seated.
I am interested to see how the vacuum gauge works out. I tried a few that I borrowed and found that they bounced around too much to get a reading. I would like to get one that works well. What gauge did you buy?
 

Motogiro

Vrrroooooom!
Super Moderator
Moderator
Elite Member
Site Supporter
I am interested to see how the vacuum gauge works out. I tried a few that I borrowed and found that they bounced around too much to get a reading. I would like to get one that works well. What gauge did you buy?
Let me check how it works
If you put something (a fitting inline) that restrict the large volume of vacuum. I will reduce the pulsing and give the actual vacuum reading. All you need is a tiny hole in the fitting..
 

pmmcanon

Member
If you put something (a fitting inline) that restrict the large volume of vacuum. I will reduce the pulsing and give the actual vacuum reading. All you need is a tiny hole in the fitting..
1599718511040.png
Maybe one of this "adapters" will work, otherwise I'll arrange something as a small "lung" to tranquilize the flow. Keep you informed
 

pmmcanon

Member
View attachment 73763
Maybe one of this "adapters" will work, otherwise I'll arrange something as a small "lung" to tranquilize the flow. Keep you informed
Correction... the gauge arrived and these adaptadors doesn't work, the gauge dances "R&R" :D.
Workaround: I made it work very stable using the hoses from the Carbtune with restrictor/damper installed and adding a clinical pressure clamps to restrict more the flow (alternative is use a small jaw). Using this you can go slowly locking the needle to a point it only moves 1/2 mm. The value for my #1 cylinder is 19,5 Hg/mm starting the adjust screw from seated to close a full turn. Also checked the original gauge's hose with this system and works the same (you don't need the Carbtune hoses and restrictors).

About the vacuum value: I live at 833 meters over the sea level and I think this is affecting the max value I can reach, sure 19,5 Hg/mm is ok at my locatión.

This evening I'll perform the sync and it seems it's gonna work :cool:
 

TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6
Site Supporter
So your at one turn out at this starting point?

And yep, being so much higher than sea level, I don't see you getting to the Yamaha # with much less air pressure at your higher altitude..

. Maybe when you start the sync, a pic of BEFORE syncing (and of course AFTER)...

Good luck.
 

pmmcanon

Member
First atempt for synchronycing works fantastic!!!
Now the bike fires up when it's cold, goes to high idle very quick (1.500 rpm) and allows throttle, when warm it revs clearly without stalls and idle around 1.100 revs.

Sorry... too late to get a pict before sync as I put hands on before reading your post... Anyway after sync I'm attaching a picture and also how the vacuum value has decreased a bit after touching the remaining 3 cylinders. About the value (and the pic of the gauge) it was trembling between 16 to 18 and the shot was done when the dial was in the lowest part... making an average it should be 17something. Another curious thing is that the gauge matchs, more or less, the value of the Carbtune.

1599754013534.png
1599754092215.png
 

trepetti

It's all good!
Elite Member
Site Supporter
First atempt for synchronycing works fantastic!!!
Now the bike fires up when it's cold, goes to high idle very quick (1.500 rpm) and allows throttle, when warm it revs clearly without stalls and idle around 1.100 revs.

Sorry... too late to get a pict before sync as I put hands on before reading your post... Anyway after sync I'm attaching a picture and also how the vacuum value has decreased a bit after touching the remaining 3 cylinders. About the value (and the pic of the gauge) it was trembling between 16 to 18 and the shot was done when the dial was in the lowest part... making an average it should be 17something. Another curious thing is that the gauge matchs, more or less, the value of the Carbtune.

View attachment 73764
View attachment 73765
That's GREAT! I need to find or make a small restrictor so I can use my vacuum gauge.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6
Site Supporter
Yepper, the Carbtune is worth it's weight in gold and will (and apparently has) paid for itself already.
KUDO's!

How far off, roughly were all the other cylinders?

Also, if not buttoned up already, (or maybe you did it), sync/adjust at 4K RPMs too and get a happy medium. That will help eliminate any vibs.



*I suspect you won't touch it being it's alive again, just something to address if experiencing excess vibrations below 4k (or at)

.
 

pmmcanon

Member
Yepper, the Carbtune is worth it's weight in gold and will (and apparently has) paid for itself already.
KUDO's!

How far off, roughly were all the other cylinders?

Also, if not buttoned up already, (or maybe you did it), sync/adjust at 4K RPMs too and get a happy medium. That will help eliminate any vibs.



*I suspect you won't touch it being it's alive again, just something to address if experiencing excess vibrations below 4k (or at)

.
Have to say: You guys rock, all of you. Special thanks to Scott who maintained his pointing to sync ;). It's very close at 4000rpm. and the #2#3#4 fourth were veeeeery far away... the 4th was
Yepper, the Carbtune is worth it's weight in gold and will (and apparently has) paid for itself already.
KUDO's!

How far off, roughly were all the other cylinders?

Also, if not buttoned up already, (or maybe you did it), sync/adjust at 4K RPMs too and get a happy medium. That will help eliminate any vibs.



*I suspect you won't touch it being it's alive again, just something to address if experiencing excess vibrations below 4k (or at)

.
Hi Scott, the Carbtune is probably the best tool I've invested in!!! Definately has paid for itself, if you take the bike to a workshop the bill will be a nightmare.

Talking about the other 3 cylinders they were far away off the #1, take into account that I dismounted completely the TB sync module, cleaned it and mount again from scratch (20/30 small pieces :oops:), once you open it, clean, apply air-pressure and clean carefully the screw needles edge... Everything is out of place. The first reading was very dissapointing because at 3/4 turn the iddle was not very usable, I had to go to a 1 full turn to get idle control (which was very low). At this point #2 was close to 14 Hg/mm, #3 at 16 and #4 higher than the #1 (around 19) :rolleyes:.
Was surprised during TB cleaning that the iddle circuit is only acting over air ammount (no direct fuel control) and realised that inside the TB sync block everything is interconected as there is only one big vault where all is managed. So I followed a bit my intuition (and experience over 2t) to obtain first idle control, followed by an acceptable vacuum value and after this synchonization.

Thanks again to all of you who made this possible
 
Top