oso2k
Member
As some of you may know, I had some custom set back plates fabbed up by my local shop (see Pic 1). The goal is to get the rearset far enough away from the ground to make racing around a more comfortable (no scrapping pegs or peg feelers or toes, have feet in a better position so that weight shifting is easier). Well, as happy as I was with their function, they weren't very pretty and kind of stuck out like a sore thumb on my project track bike (See Pic 2 and Pic 3). And I had promised to many of you, that I would try my best to get a quote to have them fabbed up nice and pretty. Some of you have even offered to help me get them fabbed up. I went & finally took my set back plates to a local fabrication shop. Now I have pretty sets to offer to all my friends here. BTW, these compare (cost-wise) very favorably to Rizoma Rearsets which go for over $400 USD and sell used for well over $200 USD. The pricing is below as is the quoted drawing. The set back is about 1.75" and the rise 1.375".
***EDIT-20170814***
SOLD OUT, FOREVER. Thanks to everyone who shared this journey.
**NEW DESIGN**
Clear Anodized Set Back Plates (Silver in color)
$-- USD (Shipping included)
Black Anodized Set Back Plates
$-- USD (Shipping included)
Add $5 for shipping outside of the US 48.
==============
Thanks to hellgate, mattcosta7, afpreppie for coming up with the new official install method.
**************
A quick word about how the new design works. All aluminum Left-to-right (Pic 4 is of the left Set Back Plate), the first 2 vertical holes receive the OEM bolts and washers and mount to the frame mount holes. The next hole (just below the weight saving cut-out trapezoid) is for the stabilizer peg that protrude from the frame (normally, this peg is received by the rearset assembly). The next 2 smaller, vertical holes are threaded to receive bolts (8mm, 1.25 pitch) and will form the new mount points for the rearset assembly. The last hole is actually a marker for a stabilizer pin to be pressed into the Set Back Plate (same function as the peg from the frame). You will need to modify your shifter rod to site outside the frame to use these Set Back Plates but there have been quite a few people who have already done this. This is usually done to flip their shift pattern to "GP Style Shifting" (1 Up, 5 Down). I have my rod modified but I still have "Standard Shifting" (1 Down, 5 Up).
You'll need the following hardware to mount them: 4 qty 8mm x 25mm x 1.25 pitch bolts (or the OEM rearset bolts maybe minus the washers, dunno; these mount at the frame), 4 qty 8mm x 30mm x 1.25 pitch bolts for the rearset mounting to the set back plates, and 4 qty 8mm nuts & washers for the back side of the set back plate. Fit is tight and the stabilizer dowel is a little tall in the set back plate. You can fit it w/o grinding it down. I used 8mm x 50mm x 1.25 pitch on the rearset mount and they're a little long but I wanted to see how much clearance you might have. I'd recommend not going any longer than 8mm x 45mm x 1.25 if you have to buy a longer bolt. The lower one is pretty close to the chain.
Please also follow Hellgate's or mattcosta7/afrpreppie's install method. It's very simple and at worst requires a bend in the OEM shift rod in a simple vise.
Hellgate's method http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-mods/10334-oso2k-setback-plate-install.html
mattcosta7/afrpreppie's http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-mods/9480-setback-plates-installed-gp-shift-swap.html
***EDIT-20170814***
SOLD OUT, FOREVER. Thanks to everyone who shared this journey.
**NEW DESIGN**
Clear Anodized Set Back Plates (Silver in color)
$-- USD (Shipping included)
Black Anodized Set Back Plates
$-- USD (Shipping included)
Add $5 for shipping outside of the US 48.
==============
Thanks to hellgate, mattcosta7, afpreppie for coming up with the new official install method.
**************
A quick word about how the new design works. All aluminum Left-to-right (Pic 4 is of the left Set Back Plate), the first 2 vertical holes receive the OEM bolts and washers and mount to the frame mount holes. The next hole (just below the weight saving cut-out trapezoid) is for the stabilizer peg that protrude from the frame (normally, this peg is received by the rearset assembly). The next 2 smaller, vertical holes are threaded to receive bolts (8mm, 1.25 pitch) and will form the new mount points for the rearset assembly. The last hole is actually a marker for a stabilizer pin to be pressed into the Set Back Plate (same function as the peg from the frame). You will need to modify your shifter rod to site outside the frame to use these Set Back Plates but there have been quite a few people who have already done this. This is usually done to flip their shift pattern to "GP Style Shifting" (1 Up, 5 Down). I have my rod modified but I still have "Standard Shifting" (1 Down, 5 Up).
You'll need the following hardware to mount them: 4 qty 8mm x 25mm x 1.25 pitch bolts (or the OEM rearset bolts maybe minus the washers, dunno; these mount at the frame), 4 qty 8mm x 30mm x 1.25 pitch bolts for the rearset mounting to the set back plates, and 4 qty 8mm nuts & washers for the back side of the set back plate. Fit is tight and the stabilizer dowel is a little tall in the set back plate. You can fit it w/o grinding it down. I used 8mm x 50mm x 1.25 pitch on the rearset mount and they're a little long but I wanted to see how much clearance you might have. I'd recommend not going any longer than 8mm x 45mm x 1.25 if you have to buy a longer bolt. The lower one is pretty close to the chain.
Please also follow Hellgate's or mattcosta7/afrpreppie's install method. It's very simple and at worst requires a bend in the OEM shift rod in a simple vise.
Hellgate's method http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-mods/10334-oso2k-setback-plate-install.html
mattcosta7/afrpreppie's http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-mods/9480-setback-plates-installed-gp-shift-swap.html
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